BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

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      01-31-2015, 03:40 PM   #23
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Boom, done. Thanks for the excellent writeup.
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      10-07-2015, 10:02 PM   #24
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I was curious enough if the newer years still had the metal tab that I went out and bought a set of trim removal tools and ratchet to take a look. For those who might be wondering, they don't.

I've got hairline cracking inside the lens all along the top edge. No idea if the dealer will replace it or will tell me to shove it because it hasn't cracked all the way through.

Anyway, here's a pic of what a '13 looks like with no tab. You can make out a a little of the cracks in the glint of the flash.
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      10-08-2015, 12:06 AM   #25
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Dealer did a goodwill replacement on mine this summer.
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      10-28-2015, 12:06 PM   #26
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Spent part of Monday trying to find part number for light. Tuesday i found this How-to with the parts links. Ordered them from Turner. Then later yesterday found the light, but not the springs and nuts, on eBay for $10-$15 less. Just for information.

Dack - thanks for posting the DIY. Makes it much easier to replace my cracked light.
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      11-05-2015, 05:39 PM   #27
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Light came in this afternoon. Five minutes into removal, i could see this was going to be a 10 minute job. Then i discovered there was no tension on any of the bolts, meaning the lens was no longer connected to the light. However, the lens was now attached to the lid by the gasket. Took 40 minutes and considerable care not to scratch lid to get old gasket off. But now it works well.

Curiously, i have a 3/08 build and it does not look like the lid had the tab. Again, thanks for the DIY.
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      02-16-2016, 09:50 PM   #28
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Replacement cracked

New lens cracked. Did the replacement and opted to modify the Lens plastic to accommodate the metal tab on my '09 135i. Made sure nuts were gently tightened only. 1 year on and cracks now forming again. Perhaps the LIP/EDGE compressed on the frame of the LED Lens when the boot lid is shut?
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      02-17-2016, 04:21 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kb135 View Post
New lens cracked. Did the replacement and opted to modify the Lens plastic to accommodate the metal tab on my '09 135i. Made sure nuts were gently tightened only. 1 year on and cracks now forming again. Perhaps the LIP/EDGE compressed on the frame of the LED Lens when the boot lid is shut?
Did you replace the springs and nuts?
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      02-20-2016, 12:08 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
Did you replace the springs and nuts?
Do they come with the replacement unit? If so, then I would have - I generally replace with new everything if I have them. I cannot remember, as it has been a while. If they do not come with the replacement lens, then no, and perhaps that's my issue hey.

EDIT: my purchase was only of the brake light, and it seems it does not come with the replacement springs and nuts, which need ordering/purchasing separately. That must be it. Thanks Dackelone. LED fix round two....

QUESTION: did the old light have a different P/N to the new one? (I know the old had the plastic cut-out for the metal tab vs the new one). I ask as I am ordering from eBay and am not sure if the P/N in the OP will lead me to either the old or the new, or whether it is specific to the new?

Last edited by kb135; 02-20-2016 at 12:25 AM.
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      02-20-2016, 12:25 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kb135 View Post
Do they come with the replacement unit? If so, then I would have - I generally replace with new everything if I have them. I cannot remember, as it has been a while. If they do not come with the replacement lens, then no, and perhaps that's my issue hey.

EDIT: my purchase was only of the brake light, and it seems it does not come with the replacement springs and nuts, which need ordering/purchasing separately. That must be it. Thanks Dackelone. LED fix round two....
I did this couple of weeks ago. I replaced the springs and nuts, however the old ones were perfectly fine and the springs appeared to have been the exact same and although I only used my fingers to gauge the required force to compress them, they appeared identical.

Just my $0.02
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      04-15-2016, 01:02 PM   #32
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Thank you thank you thank you.

I saw all the warnings and complaints, and calls to cut the tab - but nowhere else did I see the necessity to trim the lower strip or replace the springs with the lighter ones.
My socket set doesn't include a deep 8mm (and none of the deep ones are on 1/4" drive) so I'm really grateful to read that now rather than get the parts, get the carpet off, and figure it out for myself.

No offense, Rockstar - I haven't even found your thread. But will take a look shortly to make sure I didn't miss anything else!

My CHMSL has been cracked down the middle since I bought the car last summer. Out of warranty. I was trying not to worry about it. Yesterday the left half of the lens fell off somewhere between home and the ski shop.

Dealer wants $200 labor to replace, and $150 for the part! But he says if I've replaced a clutch pedal that I'm more than qualified to swap out the brake lamp. So I'll be giving it a go. (NOT buying from him...)

BTW, the "human vice" moves didn't bug me much. The guy using the knife looks like he's done this before and is holding it in such a way that he has very good control over it. If he's trying his darndest not to scratch the soft plastic just fractions of a mm from the blade, the guy holding it a couple feet away is in very little danger. My first thought was - "Nice knife. Wonder what kind it is." Blade shape is similar to the BK16, but so are lots of quality hunting drop-points. The micarta handle makes it look like a pricey fancy jobbie.
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      04-30-2016, 03:09 AM   #33
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Boom! Done!
Was a total cinch. Took less than 1/2 hr.
But mine's a 2012 so I didn't need to grind the tab or cutaway the housing. There was a slot for the lower protrusion.
I replaced the nuts, springs and plastic rivets. But already had the lighter springs.
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      04-30-2016, 02:08 PM   #34
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Mine has been cracked since I picked up the car in October 2010. Keep waiting for something to fall out but it seems to be in there pretty good. I guess one day it will.
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      04-30-2016, 03:18 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Esteban View Post
Mine has been cracked since I picked up the car in October 2010. Keep waiting for something to fall out but it seems to be in there pretty good. I guess one day it will.
I'd be worried about water getting inside of the trunk lid. But I guess seeing how your are living in Cali... you don't see much of the liquid sun-shine stuff like we get in DE.
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      04-30-2016, 07:47 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
I'd be worried about water getting inside of the trunk lid. But I guess seeing how your are living in Cali... you don't see much of the liquid sun-shine stuff like we get in DE.
My car literally never gets rained on. It's possible some water could get in that crack during a wash though. Will have to look into that.
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      05-06-2016, 06:21 PM   #37
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2008 BMW 135i  [4.33]
For anyone interested, I performed this DIY on my 2008 including tab removal. I've included photos and commentary in my build thread which may assist. Thanks to Dack for the original DIY which guided me.

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...6&postcount=58
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      11-09-2016, 04:50 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Esteban View Post
Mine has been cracked since I picked up the car in October 2010. Keep waiting for something to fall out but it seems to be in there pretty good. I guess one day it will.
I've had a hairline crack vertical in the center of the light for some time. It's barely perceptible (I don't think any water would get in) and I figured it would eventually break. Went out to my car yesterday and half the light was hanging off.

I had the TSB done years ago, so I would assume I have the new light/springs and the tab was shaved off my car. I'll find out. I've always felt it was not 100% perfect and it seemed to stick out past the edge of the trunk on one side (the side that broke).

Thanks for the DIY.
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      12-19-2016, 09:02 PM   #39
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I finally got around to replacing mine after ordering the parts a year ago from thebmwminipartstore.com for a total cost of $79.82 including shipping

063-25-9-128-043 Hex Nuts (4) - $.38 each
063-25-7-164-978 Third Stop Lamp - $68.45
063-25-7-211-238 Springs (4) - $0.85 each

A few comments on the install. I ground down the metal tab with a metal file as shown in Dack's photos. It takes awhile but it does the trick and avoids any potential mishaps with a power tool.

I primed and painted the metal to avoid any future corrosion. For removing the plastic ridge on the lamp itself, I used a sharp wood chisel and made multiple shallow passes to scrape it away. But be sure to protect the rubber gasket around the lens that buts up against the ridge so you don't slice it by mistake with whatever implement you use.

The replacement springs are definitely a lighter gauge. I purchased a "deep" 8 mm socket based on others comments, but did not use. My regular 8 mm socket in 1/4" drive ratchet set worked just fine, as I didn't screw the nuts too far up on the posts before I felt it was adequately tightened.

In order not to drop the hex nuts when getting them started, I found it easier to insert the nut into the socket and spin the socket by hand rather than try and use my fingers. I was careful not to compress the springs too much by over-tightening the nuts. I stopped when the lens appeared snug and the hex nuts had approx. 1/4" of thread exposed below them. I probably could have tighten further, so I plan to check for any looseness of the lens after driving for a few months.
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      12-20-2016, 01:41 AM   #40
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FYI, Jointing torque is 2.5Nm

Attached is the ISTA instructions
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      12-20-2016, 07:48 AM   #41
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Thanks Pablito1702 and vtl for your posts!


You know I always thought I would have to replace my third brake light due to cracking... but I still have the original brake light. Actually, my car hasn't needed to visit my BMW Zentrum very much over the years. My car has been fairly trouble free.

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      09-18-2017, 12:31 AM   #42
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I thought so too until I gave the old girl a wash and wax this weekend and discovered the TBL cracked in half.

I swear I'll need every DIY on this site before I'm through... ;-)

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      09-20-2017, 08:03 AM   #43
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Thanks for the DIY, Dack! My TBL is cracked in several places, and I had no idea that this is common. I just chalked it up to the PO leaving it outside in the Florida sun. Gotta order some parts and get cracking-err-replacing! Good to know that the new springs are weaker. I'm sure that relieves tension on the light assembly.
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      10-06-2017, 01:42 PM   #44
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I did this last week so just to add a few thoughts...

This actually kind of sucked. I dutifully ordered the new part #'s for the springs and nuts from ECS, but found they were exactly the same as those factory-installed on my 2010. Fail...

I tried using the 2.5 NM torque spec someone listed earlier for the nuts and it snapped one of the metal studs right off the new brake light! I had to remove one from the old broken light and put it in the new one to get it installed. Go not much more than snug on these and forget that torque spec...

Additionally, although I bought the genuine BMW part, it had an odd nodule-like raised portion at the join in the rubber gasket material around the periphery which I had to push inwards with the edge of credit card while tightening to allow it to seat properly and not look like ass...

All in all, not that pleasant an experience...

ianc
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