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      11-11-2009, 11:04 PM   #23
stevenc
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For most people, the alignment pin must be drilled out, just FYI. Its not a separate removable pin but rather a bubble in the top of the strut hat.
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      11-12-2009, 10:40 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevenc View Post
For most people, the alignment pin must be drilled out, just FYI. Its not a separate removable pin but rather a bubble in the top of the strut hat.
That's how it was on my 09. All one piece, so out came the drill and file.
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      01-23-2010, 11:32 AM   #25
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I took a hacksaw to mine and it came off EASILY. Then I used a file to remove any small burrs, although that really wasn't needed. Took no more than 30 seconds.... No joke.
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      08-17-2010, 11:03 AM   #26
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I keep popping this thread up on different searches, and finally felt the need to add to it.

For those without the "screw-out" type alignment pins. Don't bother drilling or cutting. Take a drift-punch or similar device (medium-point works well), put a rag around the area in case you slip, hold the punch on the alignment pin, then give it (the drift punch) a good whack with a (metal) hammer.
This is the factory shopbook referenced method BMW uses to remove them (quote: "twist/drive out centering pin"), and it works really well/easily. They are designed to pop out with force from the top. Less than 30 seconds, easier than any other methods. :-P

(Note that this should be done with everything ON the car; if you are doing suspension work and have the suspension removed, don't try whacking it out with a hammer, as you'll likely bend the weak ring at the top of the strut mounting hat.)
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      08-17-2010, 03:48 PM   #27
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Great DIY! I'll be doing this, along with an alignment, to my '11 as soon as I pick it up.
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      12-01-2010, 09:15 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by My E90 View Post
Great DIY! I'll be doing this, along with an alignment, to my '11 as soon as I pick it up.
Where do you get your alignments? Nobody I've found here in South Florida will do it except BMW...
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      01-24-2012, 11:54 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emm3tt View Post
I've found that to be a myth which started in order to sell camber kits to riceboys.

Toe has much more to do with inner tire wear than does camber.
true!
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      01-24-2012, 11:57 PM   #30
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I'll do this later! Awesome
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      01-25-2012, 09:21 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xaeryan View Post
I keep popping this thread up on different searches, and finally felt the need to add to it.

For those without the "screw-out" type alignment pins. Don't bother drilling or cutting. Take a drift-punch or similar device (medium-point works well), put a rag around the area in case you slip, hold the punch on the alignment pin, then give it (the drift punch) a good whack with a (metal) hammer.
This is the factory shopbook referenced method BMW uses to remove them (quote: "twist/drive out centering pin"), and it works really well/easily. They are designed to pop out with force from the top. Less than 30 seconds, easier than any other methods. :-P

(Note that this should be done with everything ON the car; if you are doing suspension work and have the suspension removed, don't try whacking it out with a hammer, as you'll likely bend the weak ring at the top of the strut mounting hat.)

+1. Great advice. Danke.
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      01-25-2012, 06:34 PM   #32
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I could not pull it out and I could not hammer it in. I will drill it out later
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      03-07-2013, 05:31 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xaeryan View Post
I keep popping this thread up on different searches, and finally felt the need to add to it.

For those without the "screw-out" type alignment pins. Don't bother drilling or cutting. Take a drift-punch or similar device (medium-point works well), put a rag around the area in case you slip, hold the punch on the alignment pin, then give it (the drift punch) a good whack with a (metal) hammer.
This is the factory shopbook referenced method BMW uses to remove them (quote: "twist/drive out centering pin"), and it works really well/easily. They are designed to pop out with force from the top. Less than 30 seconds, easier than any other methods. :-P

(Note that this should be done with everything ON the car; if you are doing suspension work and have the suspension removed, don't try whacking it out with a hammer, as you'll likely bend the weak ring at the top of the strut mounting hat.)
+1 Been thinking about doing this for awhile and almost went with the drilling method.. Glad I saw this before my batteries for the drill charged up. Literally took 1 good whack with a rachet extension( improvised punch) and out popped each pin!
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      03-29-2013, 04:27 PM   #34
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So what is the purpose of the pin in the first place, to facilitate quick assembly at the factory? Is there a downside to removing it?
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      03-31-2013, 08:25 PM   #35
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Will toe change significantly with this mod?
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      04-01-2013, 05:20 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b1aze View Post
Will toe change significantly with this mod?
In round numbers, -1 degree change in camber will change the total toe by 1/4" out on the 1 series.

I believe you only get about -1/4 degree camber change by pulling the pin so the toe change will be on the order of 1/16" out. That is probably a good thing.

You are certainly safe trying it to see if you like the results without worrying about having to take the car in for an alignment immediately.
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      04-02-2013, 09:40 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fe1rx View Post
In round numbers, -1 degree change in camber will change the total toe by 1/4" out on the 1 series.

I believe you only get about -1/4 degree camber change by pulling the pin so the toe change will be on the order of 1/16" out. That is probably a good thing.

You are certainly safe trying it to see if you like the results without worrying about having to take the car in for an alignment immediately.
My alignment pins are out, but I have a different range of movement available from left to right for some reason. I can get almost -1.1 deg of camber on one side, but only -0.9 on the other. An alignment would identify that, rather than maxing out both sides and hoping they're even.

Cheers,
Bryan
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      04-04-2013, 02:25 AM   #38
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These pins do get stuck a lot and the ones with no hex hole get knocked out with a punch. This mod will usually add -20-30 min or -.3-.5 deg the adjustment is really there to move the strut mount positive up to +50min or +.9deg. If you do this your front toe will change toe out to an estimated -9 min positive from a +.2 reg +.8 sport suspension.

Also if you are wanting a more aggressive setup just take your car for an alignment and let them know nothing says you can't make requests.
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      04-04-2013, 01:33 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bordia View Post
These pins do get stuck a lot and the ones with no hex hole get knocked out with a punch. This mod will usually add -20-30 min or -.3-.5 deg the adjustment is really there to move the strut mount positive up to +50min or +.9deg. If you do this your front toe will change toe out to an estimated -9 min positive from a +.2 reg +.8 sport suspension.

Also if you are wanting a more aggressive setup just take your car for an alignment and let them know nothing says you can't make requests.
So can you do this mod at home or do you have to do alignment?
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      04-04-2013, 08:05 PM   #40
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Have an alignment completed and just tell them what you want, some shops will have you sign something stating you know you will have increased tire wear just cover themselves.
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      04-05-2013, 09:49 PM   #41
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Alright, I want to chime in on this thread with my experiences. My car has the later-style pins that need to be tapped out. I didn't have a drill handy, so I just used a flathead screwdriver + hammer and hit the pins at their bases. The driver's side took longer, maybe I was being a wuss with the hammer, but once I had the hang of it, the passenger-side literally took 1 minute to knock the pin out, and adjust the strut. There looked to be a fair bit of movement accomplished by doing this. Here are some pictures showing how much I was able to get out of the car by myself. I figure if I had a second set of hands to manhandle the strut tops, that there's a teeny bit left in it, in terms of available camber. Well worth the 30 minute time investment.
This also gave me an excuse to fab up my own little temporary jackpad so I wouldn't damage the jack points on these cars, it's not pretty, but it is quite functional, and the under-car mount points still look pristine. If anyone needs a hand doing this, and is in the Central Ohio area, give me a shout, we can knock it out (pun intended) in no time. Looks like the passenger side had more to give, which is fine, because it helps balance out with the weight of the driver. I plan on getting the alignment checked to make sure my toe isn't super out of whack, I will report back with camber/toe/caster numbers.

Pictures:

Driver's Side:



Passenger Side:



Homebrew jackpad, wooden block layered with duct tape:

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      04-16-2013, 11:37 PM   #42
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Is it true that removing these pins will cause too much play, and you will need to get alignments often and can lead to problems in the long run?
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      04-17-2013, 01:08 AM   #43
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Alignment pins are only there for guiding the strut mount to the proper position on install. It is required to remove them when adjusting front camber also the struts will not move when properly tightened down after adjusting camber.
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      04-18-2013, 03:18 AM   #44
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Will negative camber increase inner tire wear if use car for daily drive?
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