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05-25-2009, 02:29 PM | #1 |
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Just an ordinary oil change
just so myself and others can laugh at my stupididty, I started the morning off with an oil change. I placed the cheap ole autozone oil pan underneath the the car but because the jack was right there it was a little lopp sided. While draining the oil I relieze "oh shit. This pan is going to be way to small"
A garage full of oil later (ps the turbo car oil gets much hotter than my NA Pontiac causing me to burn my hand) I applied the tiny O ring to the oil pan bolt only to say to myself later "that doesn't seem right..." This is what happens when you buy a drastically different car then your used to and don't look at DIYs
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05-25-2009, 10:16 PM | #2 |
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It should have been a copper crush ring on the oil pan bolt. It comes in the kit with the oil filter. There is a DIY video on this site that is excellent.
The o-ring is for the oil filter housing. If you actually placed in on the drain plug, it is probably going to melt and cause an oil leak. Last edited by Lester; 05-26-2009 at 12:26 AM.. |
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05-25-2009, 10:30 PM | #4 |
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a lot of guys get it changed after the break in period.
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05-25-2009, 10:38 PM | #5 |
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BMW only pays for oil changes every 1yr or ~15,000 miles. That's fine for some but for others it is too infrequent for their comfort level. Additionally, some people on here drive their cars hard enough (be it on the street, drag strip or track day) that it's a good idea to go through more frequent oil changes.
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05-26-2009, 07:37 AM | #7 |
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because 15-18k mile oil changes is crazy imo, oil tests have confirmed this with the n54
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You only need two tools in life - WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
Driving e82, e72, e85, R53 Gone but not forgotten.. 1974 2002, many various 3s. |
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05-26-2009, 09:16 AM | #8 |
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Just like others, I wouldn't be able to "sleep easy" knowing my car is between 3500-15000 without an oil change.
The correct oil was used and I did figure out where that little rubber o-ring went (as it looks completely wrong against the bolt lol) May need a new garage floor in the future though.
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05-26-2009, 09:28 AM | #9 |
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I do not have my 128i convertible yet but when I get to start driving it, I will change oil at least once inbetween dealer changes. I will follow the older BMW schedule, in other words, to maximize the life of my BMW. It seems BMW lengthened the interval at the same time they decided to cover the cost.
The negative experience reminded me of the first oil change on my SUV, a Suzuki. It has a drain plug on the side of the pan so the oil squirts horizontally. I made a big mess. Not only did I miss the pan bad at the start, I missed it again at the end as the pressure went down. Now I have a quarter turn ball valve in there with a clear plastic hose so I can do this quite easily but that first one was pretty bad. I still have a filter in a very bad location and my best option seems to be to take off the drivers side front wheel to get access. Nice that BMW puts it on the top. Jim
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05-26-2009, 10:07 AM | #10 |
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^ You'll be pleasantly surprised the first time you change the oil. It's as simple as could be with the 1's and the DIY's tell you everything you need.
The only thing I'd add to them is if you have the car up on jacks you may want to stick a piece of wide tape just aft of the drain plug and hang it down past the plastic underbody. Otherwise some oil will drip behind the underbody while draining and come out well past your drain pan. (128i only, I believe the 135i drain plug is positioned differently) |
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05-26-2009, 01:06 PM | #11 |
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Is the oil getting on the pan thing if the front is elevated but not the back? That seems to be what you are describing.
I have been thinking I might use a floor jack to just lift the front and then the back so it is level while the oil drains. More work but not a lot more if you only jack it twice (once for the front, once for the back). That assumes I can get my floor jack under there. I am also wondering what corner of the sump the drain plug comes out of. If I knew I was not leaving oil in the pan by only lifting the front, I would be more inclined to just do it that way. Or maybe even just lift one corner if it angled the oil towards the drain. Jim
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05-26-2009, 03:15 PM | #12 | |
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Otherwise.... doing at least 1 oil change between every service interval (every 7.5k miles) is probably a wise idea.
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05-26-2009, 05:47 PM | #13 | |
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But I agree with you about what BMW terms "interim" oil changes - A roughly 7,500 mile change interval using synthetic works just fine for me. Tom |
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05-26-2009, 08:30 PM | #14 |
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doesn't it just increase the amt of time until you get a BMW service oil change?
What I mean is, lets say you do a break-in oil change at 2,000 miles. won't it reset and not let you get a free service until 17,000 miles? Then if you change it after another 5,000 it resets to 22,000 miles, etc... so they never change your oil for you for free! |
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05-26-2009, 08:33 PM | #15 |
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you dont reset the computer, so it does not know it was changed and still expects the free bmw oil change
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You only need two tools in life - WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
Driving e82, e72, e85, R53 Gone but not forgotten.. 1974 2002, many various 3s. |
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05-26-2009, 08:36 PM | #16 |
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ah. so you're saying as long as I just change the oil and go about my merry way without hitting any buttons on the dashboard (I'm not even sure how to reset it), then my car will assume the oil has not been changed?
Fantastic, if that's the case. |
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05-26-2009, 08:37 PM | #17 |
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edit, no tool, see jeremy's post
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You only need two tools in life - WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
Driving e82, e72, e85, R53 Gone but not forgotten.. 1974 2002, many various 3s. Last edited by imported_mega; 05-27-2009 at 11:07 AM.. |
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05-26-2009, 09:37 PM | #18 | |
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You do not need a special tool to reset the service warnings. You really should stop going on about things like this, because you're constantly giving out bad information. http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ndicator+reset Step 1 Insert key into slot Step 2 Press start/stop button without depressing clutch/brake and wait for the service reminder to dissapear. Step 3 Immediately after service reminder goes out, press and hold the odometer reset. After 3 secs a warning triangle will appear, keep the odo. button pressed and after another 2-3 secs the Oil can will appear. I f you hold it too long (10 secs in total) you will overshoot the runway and some German writing will appear giving the software level/ can bus etc. of the car. Go back to the beginning and start again. Step 4 You are now in the service menu, use the toggle switch on indicator stalk to scroll up/down through the various service items. Step 5 When you have the item you want to reset showing, press the BC button on end of indicator stalk. Reset should now appear in the display. Press in and hold the BC button for 2-3 secs and a clock will start whirling around and hey presto, its done Step 6 You can now either scroll up/down to select another item (as in step 4) or you can press the start/stop button to exit. |
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05-26-2009, 09:42 PM | #19 | |
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Tom |
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05-27-2009, 05:32 AM | #20 | |
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I'm not sure what your talking about on constantly giving out bad information though, if you have a problem PM me
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You only need two tools in life - WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
Driving e82, e72, e85, R53 Gone but not forgotten.. 1974 2002, many various 3s. |
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