E88 14' Valvetronic dead?

[Voxza]

Hello guys!

I was driving normally when I've noticed that down-shifting felt different, it had a slight delay and the rpms were kinda bouncing. At first I thought that the gearbox went out on me but after scanning with MHD I got these codes:

Active Codes
- 2DCE Valvetronic system: No adjustement possible.
Shadow Codes
- 2DD0 Valvetronic system: Warning threshold value, feedback control deviation exceeded.
- 2E11 Valvetronic system: bottom stop learned.

It drives fine, there's no limp mode or anything on the dash.
As it happened less than 30 minutes ago all I've done is Clear Codes and rewrite the MHD OTS Stage that I use but the codes come back 100%.

I'm over 800 KMs away from my goto mechanic, what should I do for now? Would it still be safe to drive as for now all the car does is downshift slowly? What parts should I get (Actuator, Shaft)?

Car:
- BMW 135i E88 w/ N55 engine (127k KM, maintenance done regularly, plugs/coils got 8k KM on them)
- Downpipe/Intake/Intercooler
- MHD Stage 2+

[tracer bullet]

If you DIY, yes, I'd go actuator and shaft. One or the other is bad and there's a decent chance that whichever failed actually has been messing up the other. Also it would suck to tear it all apart, replace one, give it a shot and turn out you have to go back in again.

And it does sound like one of those two things. You should be able to drive OK, you just won't get the expected power band or potentially mileage. It will be in a static position. Worth fixing, but not an emergency to do so.

[5thGearPinned]

Listen to Tracer and do a complete valvetronic (shaft and actuator) replacement. I did my actuator only and had to go back and replace the shaft as well. FCP euro sells a complete kit, ensure yours has the shaft which looks like a camshaft. It’s fine to drive your car as is for a while but the symptoms will worsen over time and eventually you run the risk of screwing up the DME but I drove around for atleast three months with worse symptoms than yours and car drove like crap but didn’t suffer any long term damage

[Voxza]

Originally Posted by 5thGearPinned

Listen to Tracer and do a complete valvetronic (shaft and actuator) replacement. I did my actuator only and had to go back and replace the shaft as well. FCP euro sells a complete kit, ensure yours has the shaft which looks like a camshaft. It’s fine to drive your car as is for a while but the symptoms will worsen over time and eventually you run the risk of screwing up the DME but I drove around for atleast three months with worse symptoms than yours and car drove like crap but didn’t suffer any long term damage

I ended up buying both things and they are on their way to Chile

As related to my original problem, does the valvetronic suffer damage on low Voltages and the battery draining? Ever since I've got a OHC Carbon fiber led steering wheel I've started getting battery drain issues. From what I've noticed is that the valvetronic initially dies AFTER jump starting my car resulting on turbo vacuum @ -10 psi but still performs as it should + the sluggish downshifts. It goes away with a couple of restarts.

That's how I had to use my car since I originally wrote the first post, as of yesterday it completely died, I parked the car for 30 minutes at the mall and when I came back it started with Limp mode on but with no weird sounds as I've seen on other peoples faulty valvetronics.

I'm def getting rid of the steering wheel haha