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12-27-2009, 10:59 PM | #45 | |
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The Recaro Pole Position is an introductory fixed back shell. By introductory i mean that it is not a REAL race seat. The thigh bolsters aren't too high, and the shoulder support pushes u rather than HUGGING you (its hard to explain). Other issue I have with fixed back seats in a car w/out roll bar is that you shouldn't be driving it! Fixed back seats are designed to NOT collapse in the case of a roll over - where as an oem seat is designed to collapse. The roll bar technically saves your spine. The Cobra Suzuka Pro that I have is great. The thigh support is quite high, so it does make it an effort to get in and out of the seat - but its quite the expierience when you do get into the seat! The shoulder area hugs you! THey are broader, since the seat is the XL version ( there is a Suzuka non pro model for the skinnier of us), so they just HUG you. I run harnesses all the time so I do not swim in the seats - they are jus right. I am 6'0 195 lbs. Either way, definitely do some research. THe BMW performance seats are just over priced Recaro Sportsters (i guess you are paying for the airbag in the seats). Those are nice seats and look great in the 1 series. Either way, i am w/your 135
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12-27-2009, 11:38 PM | #46 | |
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I suppose what my course of action should be is research fixed back seats I could track with and easily remove, using my stock seats for every day driving.
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12-28-2009, 12:41 AM | #47 | |
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i would just get ones that you would feel comfy to use for dd and track -- the recaro sportsters are nice! (bmw perf looking ones)
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12-31-2009, 12:00 PM | #48 |
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Raised the car back up to about stock height, feels high now...
...I like how easy it is to adjust ride height...jack up, pull off wheel, use included spanner tools on the purple disk, and that's about it. For the most part, I like how easy it is to adjust dampening...the rears can be a pain because you have to remove trunk lining to access that little groove. I've also kind of wondered what would happen if I dropped the little KW supplied key. I've heard you can use a 2mm Allen Wrench. Overall, it's a very easy to work with kit, install was somewhat of a pain, took 3 people about 10 hours (the instructions didn't seem to be the best). I don't like it sitting as high as it is now...but I didn't like it as low as it was earlier for every day use (don't get me wrong, I think the ride height and look was perfect, the wheels were flush with the fenders!). I hated hearing the little "sssshhhhhkkkk" as the bottom of some part of my car scraped exiting steep driveways (for some reason, never had a problem entering steep driveways). Either today, tomorrow, or at some point in the near future, I'll probably lower it to a point that's halfway between where it is now and where it was before. Can someone confirm:If only adjusting 1/4" ~ 1/2" alignment isn't necessary.
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12-31-2009, 03:21 PM | #49 |
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I would align it after the height is set where you want it, but that's must me. I want to make sure it is right. As far as lowering, take a measurement from the fender to the center of the hub. I'm at 12 5/8" at all 4 corners and have no problems with scraping the bottom of the car. I am careful with the front lip though.
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12-31-2009, 06:30 PM | #50 | |
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I guess for now, I should just leave it out, and play around until I find a setting I like best. That or consider a permanent hole to access it...
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12-31-2009, 06:33 PM | #51 | |
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01-01-2010, 01:31 PM | #52 |
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If you want to go lower, remove the rear adjusting cup that came with the coils, and have the spring sit on the factory rubber piece. The will drop the rear another .5" and the front can go much lower.
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01-01-2010, 01:47 PM | #53 |
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I'm not too worried about it going lower...it was plenty low before...maybe a smidgen too low for daily driving. Now I put it back to near stock height...it feels too high. I want to lower it about half an inch from where it is now, but I'm feeling the leftovers of yesterday's festivities and don't really feel like doing anything today.
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01-02-2010, 08:04 PM | #54 |
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I've had enough adjusting and I think my jack points have too.
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01-06-2010, 07:48 PM | #56 |
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After today, I'm done adjusting. The rears can be kind of a pain because of the control arms. A friend told me you could adjust by turning the coilovers, but I'm not going to try it...I'm done, it's finished, no more.
On to next mod...
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01-06-2010, 08:24 PM | #57 |
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Can you please explain how you make adjustments to dampening? Everyone says it's very simple but I can't find any videos showing how it's done. Would love to go with V2's in the future. Is there just a switch under the hood? Where abouts? Do you need a tool to adjust it? Sorry for the newbie question.
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01-06-2010, 08:37 PM | #58 | |
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I did a quick video search for you, and I hope those videos helped. It's more or less just like that with KW in terms of adjusting ride height. But you will need the "special" key that KW supplies to you (aka 2mm Allen Wrench) to make dampening adjustments. This is the "trunk" of a Nissan 350Z fitted with adjustable KW's. As you can see, the trunk lining of our cars has to be removed in order to gain access...unless you want a permanent hole. You would use the key to turn "clicks" for dampening adjustments. Thread is located here with some pics for the coilovers out of the car. Hope this was the info you needed. Not a newb question at all, no need for apologies. IMO, It's always good to be informed about how a product works, what it does, and how to use it yourself when buying; and you're doing just that!
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