is this tie rod frozen

[Hops128i]

I need an alignment after a camber plate install. The place i want to get the alignment told me to make sure the tie rods aren't frozen. So with the car on the ground, I loosen the pinch bolt with a T45, hold the out side in place with a 13mm open ended wrench, and the other with a crescent wrench, but i can't get any movement at all.

-I don't think the tie rod looks bad, do i just need to put more muscle into it?
-my car is still under warranty, if the tie rods are really frozen, should i just go to the dealer? Will they say something crazy like my camber plates screwed up the tie rods?

[Hops128i]

well, I'm actually thinking of taking it to the dealer for an alignment, the price is ok, and they said they camber plates aren't a problem.

[Hops128i]

What do i tell the dealer about the alignment specs, for camber and toe? Do i want a track and stree setting? I've searched and can't find a consensus.

I have vorslag camber plates on a stock suspension. Should i just tell them zero toe with full camber, i think the most i'll get is -2.5? Then just leave it and forget it?

[PrematureApex]

Originally Posted by Hops128i

What do i tell the dealer about the alignment specs, for camber and toe? Do i want a track and stree setting? I've searched and can't find a consensus.

I have vorslag camber plates on a stock suspension. Should i just tell them zero toe with full camber, i think the most i'll get is -2.5? Then just leave it and forget it?

If all you'll get is -2.5, that will be fine for the street, with no real additional tire wear.

I'd be fine with setting them there, zeroing the toe all around, and calling it a day.

If you have significantly more room in the plates afterwards, you could consider marking the plates at -2.5, and, at the track, maxing out each side. The added camber and toe-out will help you more. When you're done, tip them back in to your -2.5 line.

Alternative would be to mark at -2.0 for the street, zero toe, and max them both out at the track.

[Hops128i]

thanks for the advice! So, I'm thinking 2.0 degrees with zero toe, so i get a little toe out for autocross/track.

Need to do this, i've gotten away with 3k miles on the plates without an alignment, no noticeable unusual wear.

[RimasRS]

Dealer can do just OEM spec at least my dealer told that they will not do custom alignment...

[Hops128i]

Originally Posted by RimasRS

Dealer can do just OEM spec at least my dealer told that they will not do custom alignment...

yeah, I was thinking this too, but surprisingly my dealer said they'd do it, just it will cost $220, so I found a indy for $150

[Hops128i]

been so focused on the front, what do I request for the rear? Just OEM spec?

[Ginger_Extract]

Originally Posted by Hops128i

been so focused on the front, what do I request for the rear? Just OEM spec?

What's your wheel and tire setup? That will really help dictate alignment settings.

[Hops128i]

Originally Posted by Ginger_Extract

What's your wheel and tire setup? That will really help dictate alignment settings.

Not sure yet, but a 245/40/17 square of ZII's or RS3's or Rivals for STX autocross.

Told the dealer to just use the Dinan camber plate specs for the rear (-1.7 degrees camber, 0.17 degrees toe). Thought they would be able to give me more advice since they were willing to do a non-OEM alignment, but they really only install BMW performance stuff.

[Hops128i]

just sharing my alignment results. Was kind of surprised how before the alignment, i was close to spec with the camber plates installed, but i guess since the plates are the same height as the stock strut tops, it should be like that.