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      05-21-2014, 10:29 PM   #1
CSanto
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I'm thinking about picking up a 1M and doing a build of this sort. Street legal track star.
I'm thinking Ohlins, light weight wheels, Akra exhaust

I don't know much about power mods for the 1M. Is a tune reliable for the track? What about DPs?

What would be your wish list for a build of this sort?
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      05-21-2014, 11:03 PM   #2
ilikebmxbikes
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Tunes and downpipes are reliable for the track. Tuned it will generate more heat.

My mods for a basic track set up (not in a particular order):
Brakes
Coilovers
Front Mount Intercooler
ChargePipe
Drop in intake filter
Stage 1+ Tune
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      05-21-2014, 11:15 PM   #3
ozinaldo
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1M modding 101: tires, camber plates, CDV delete, charge pipe and exhaust imho.

Rest will probably follow too but with these basic upgrades you will discover (and enjoy) the stock car to the fullest first and by that you will be able to understand what it needs more. Others said and will say the rest; brakes, suspension mods, tune, fmic, intake, maybe new clutch depending on how much more additional power you will put etc.

Just take the stock car for a good drive first, you will figure it out
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      05-22-2014, 06:42 AM   #4
CSanto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ilikebmxbikes
Tunes and downpipes are reliable for the track. Tuned it will generate more heat.

My mods for a basic track set up (not in a particular order):
Brakes
Coilovers
Front Mount Intercooler
ChargePipe
Drop in intake filter
Stage 1+ Tune
Is charge pipe the same as down pipes?
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      05-22-2014, 08:06 AM   #5
MDORPHN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSanto View Post
Is charge pipe the same as down pipes?
No, downpipes run from the turbos to the exhaust mid-pipe. Because the primary pair of catalytic concerters are in the downpipes, there are significant power gains to be had by going catless. Obviously, this affects emissions and is not legal, though there are secondary cats in the midpipes.

I'd add to the above comments that an upgraded intercooler is essential for road course use. And, of course, track pads and good fluid.

BTW, the charge pipe runs from the cold side of the intercooler to the throttle body. The stock piece is weak and, for that reason, many go aftermarket.

And, yes, there are many good tunes, Cobb among them.

Neil
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      05-22-2014, 09:03 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozinaldo View Post
1M modding 101: tires, camber plates, CDV delete, charge pipe and exhaust imho.

Rest will probably follow too but with these basic upgrades you will discover (and enjoy) the stock car to the fullest first and by that you will be able to understand what it needs more. Others said and will say the rest; brakes, suspension mods, tune, fmic, intake, maybe new clutch depending on how much more additional power you will put etc.

Just take the stock car for a good drive first, you will figure it out
+1 above. Put some tires and camber plates on first.. so you can even get the stock power to the ground and turn. Then worry about the other stuff. Personally... I am starting to feel like 285/30 or bigger at the rear is a necessory..
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      05-22-2014, 12:49 PM   #7
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If you're a noob, keep it stock.

If you're experienced driver, tires, camber plates, track pads.

Everything else should be *fine* if running stock boost. The other goodies can come along as progress.
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      05-23-2014, 11:44 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3 Adjuster
Quote:
Originally Posted by ozinaldo View Post
1M modding 101: tires, camber plates, CDV delete, charge pipe and exhaust imho.

Rest will probably follow too but with these basic upgrades you will discover (and enjoy) the stock car to the fullest first and by that you will be able to understand what it needs more. Others said and will say the rest; brakes, suspension mods, tune, fmic, intake, maybe new clutch depending on how much more additional power you will put etc.

Just take the stock car for a good drive first, you will figure it out
+1 above. Put some tires and camber plates on first.. so you can even get the stock power to the ground and turn. Then worry about the other stuff. Personally... I am starting to feel like 285/30 or bigger at the rear is a necessory..
Plus one

This car does not need more power before fixing the over steer issues.

Get camber plates 1st thing.
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      05-23-2014, 12:06 PM   #9
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no need that much of a mods on the engine..

but exhaust are must for sound pleasure..
maybe some filter..


lightweight wheels and coil overs of course!
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      12-05-2014, 08:33 AM   #10
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My first mods for this were:

1/ Coils + alignement
2/ Brake pads + lines + fluid
3/ Tires
4/ Charge pipe + exhaust
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      12-08-2014, 09:02 AM   #11
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Here is my setup. I am by no means seasoned and not looking to be the fastest car out there. Just looking to enjoy the car on road course

Camber plates
275/18 square (Rs3)
pads on all 4 corners (pfc08)
SS brake lines and high temp fluid
Stock power levels unless you count n55 mid as a power add.

The camber plates are helpful with managing tire wear. I have the car aligned to -1.8 in the front for the street, and I add another ~1.5 degrees of negative camber track side. I do not see a change in toe when going back to the street alignment. Pretty easy to adjust track side too.

I think this is a pretty basic setup, but I have no need for more adjustment or power.
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      12-08-2014, 08:37 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craina
Here is my setup. I am by no means seasoned and not looking to be the fastest car out there. Just looking to enjoy the car on road course

Camber plates
275/18 square (Rs3)
pads on all 4 corners (pfc08)
SS brake lines and high temp fluid
Stock power levels unless you count n55 mid as a power add.

The camber plates are helpful with managing tire wear. I have the car aligned to -1.8 in the front for the street, and I add another ~1.5 degrees of negative camber track side. I do not see a change in toe when going back to the street alignment. Pretty easy to adjust track side too.

I think this is a pretty basic setup, but I have no need for more adjustment or power.
+1.
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      12-23-2014, 11:11 AM   #13
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And the free 3-point harness mod. Scoot seat back. Snap shoulder belt to activate lock. Keep tension on shoulder belt and scoot seat forward to desired seat position and belt tension.
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