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[JakeWJF]

Originally Posted by chris82

no that's bigger up front. I believe stock is 215. Yea those look like a 245 though to me lol

Nope, cause rolling the fenders would make them more likely to rust. 245 doesn't fit without mods/camber up front. I read the thread lol.

But actually I meant wheel/tire package diameter, not tread width.

[JakeWJF]

Originally Posted by miggs

Terry from BMS has been running a kosei K1 set up on his 135 with success not sure his tire specs. I have a set of rear and I think a 245 is the max you can get back there.

I'm actually just planning on going 225 square. Right now its 205/225 staggered and it's got more than enough rear tire for the street honestly.

[JakeWJF]

Originally Posted by miggs

Terry from BMS has been running a kosei K1 set up on his 135 with success not sure his tire specs. I have a set of rear and I think a 245 is the max you can get back there.

K1s are even lighter. The K6R supposedly has a flow-formed rim but its still a cast wheel at < 18 lbs... Maybe I should hold out for something better.

[DietTab]

Originally Posted by JakeWJF

K1s are even lighter. The K6R supposedly has a flow-formed rim but its still a cast wheel at < 18 lbs... Maybe I should hold out for something better.

K1s are also junk. They're made too light and too thin, highly prone to breaking. Ive seen several break locally or crack on the spokes in all sorts of sizes. (On a miata, E36, and E46)

I went with 8.5 style 68s all around because they're cheap and OEM - +38 offset up front after a 12mm spacer. Not the lightest out there, but not too bad at 21.9 lbs a piece. Took a roll and flare to tuck 255 RS3s

[TheSt|G]

Originally Posted by JakeWJF

I like that a lot. Definitely lots of sidewall though. Not a bad thing considering I think I've already bent a stock wheel. Where did you purchase them from?

Purchased them from Tirerack.

That amount of sidewall and the diameter in general is nothing but better objectively when compared to an 18" or larger. Nothing but good things to say about the setup in general. My only complaint is that I have to take them off in the winter.

[rpsco]

I run Style 73s as my 17" winter setup.

[JakeWJF]

Originally Posted by TheSt|G

That amount of sidewall and the diameter in general is nothing but better objectively when compared to an 18" or larger.

Right, in my opinion having a little more sidewall than stock would be ideal, but too far I guess I assumed you'd throw off the speedo.

I currently have the stock BMW style 370 17" wheel, so it's not a diameter change for me unless I get taller tires.

[Ginger_Extract]

Originally Posted by JakeWJF

Anyone know anything about the Kosei K6R? Or Kosei wheels in general?

They're both light and cheap which is scary but I can't find anyone saying anything bad about them.

They like to sheer their own spokes off. Buyer beware, they have a very low load rating, and I have personally seen much lighter cars damage them at autoX.

Edit: Obligatory post whoring of my 17" track setup being thoroughly exercised:

[blinded]

Hmm, looks like you've found my secret shortcut.

[JakeWJF]

Originally Posted by DietTab

K1s are also junk. They're made too light and too thin, highly prone to breaking. Ive seen several break locally or crack on the spokes in all sorts of sizes. (On a miata, E36, and E46)

I went with 8.5 style 68s all around because they're cheap and OEM - +38 offset up front after a 12mm spacer. Not the lightest out there, but not too bad at 21.9 lbs a piece. Took a roll and flare to tuck 255 RS3s

So that's 50mm offset on the rear?

I like the look of those, but 12mm spacer is a lot, right?

[JakeWJF]

What about OZ Leggera HLTs in 17"? They only run about $300. I think $685 per wheel is a little high for me.

[BrokenVert]

Originally Posted by JakeWJF

What about OZ Leggera HLTs in 17"? They only run about $300. I think $685 per wheel is a little high for me.

My Ultraleggeras cost me about that much. OZ makes good stuff, especially for the price.

[JakeWJF]

Originally Posted by BrokenVert

My Ultraleggeras cost me about that much. OZ makes good stuff, especially for the price.

Stronger than stock wheels then?

[TheSt|G]

Originally Posted by JakeWJF

Stronger than stock wheels then?

Nope.

With a good wheel you get to pick two from from the following list:

1. Strong
2. Light
3. Cheap

With the RGRs I went with you get strong(9000 ton forged) and light(17lbs), but they definitely aren't cheap. The OZs are cheap and light, but certainly not strong being cast at the weight they are. Stock wheels are strong and cheap.

[BrokenVert]

Originally Posted by TheSt|G

Nope.

With a good wheel you get to pick two from from the following list:

1. Strong
2. Light
3. Cheap

With the RGRs I went with you get strong(9000 ton forged) and light(17lbs), but they definitely aren't cheap. The OZs are cheap and light, but certainly not strong being cast at the weight they are. Stock wheels are strong and cheap.

haha, yup. hence my qualifier of "for the price" I have one that was pretty nastily bent over the summer. Granted that happened when I had a tire blow out, but I made it to the side of the road before the tire went fully flat. guess I bent it getting off the road.

I drive too much to worry about breaking a really expensive wheel, so the OZs fit that bill. Nice, but not too pricey that i'll really feel needing to replace one, you know? No complaints about them, other than that. You dont go into an aluminum wheel expecting them to stay perfectly straight after a few years and tens of thousands of miles.

[JakeWJF]

I would rather spend $685 on a wheel I never have to replace than a full $300 on a wheel I'll certainly have to repair or replace every few years.

[TheSt|G]

Originally Posted by JakeWJF

I would rather spend $685 on a wheel I never have to replace than a full $300 on a wheel I'll certainly have to repair or replace every few years.

From my experience then, it sounds like the RGRs fit the spec for you then. On the plus side, in the world of wheels $685 for a wheel of that caliber is pretty cheap. It being a 17" saves you some serious cash.

[BrokenVert]

Originally Posted by JakeWJF

I would rather spend $685 on a wheel I never have to replace than a full $300 on a wheel I'll certainly have to repair or replace every few years.

I do 20K a year on my cars. I dont buy any wheels without expecting them to bend at some point.

Also the only one of my OZ Ultras that has bent over 50K miles did so under extreme circumstances (during a tire blowout). The other three are still dead straight.

[JakeWJF]

Originally Posted by TheSt|G

From my experience then, it sounds like the RGRs fit the spec for you then. On the plus side, in the world of wheels $685 for a wheel of that caliber is pretty cheap. It being a 17" saves you some serious cash.

Thanks for the input. I think I have some personal finance goals to accomplish before I spend that much on a wheel/tire package, so we'll postpone this decision until early summer.

[JakeWJF]

Originally Posted by BrokenVert

I do 20K a year on my cars. I dont buy any wheels without expecting them to bend at some point.

Also the only one of my OZ Ultras that has bent over 50K miles did so under extreme circumstances (during a tire blowout). The other three are still dead straight.

I REALLY like the look of them too. So we will see. It'll be a month or two at least before I actually buy wheels. I dwell on decisions like this for a long time.

[chris82]

Originally Posted by Kgolf31

Just FYI APEX LOVES to do Group Buys during the winter. Personally I'd jump on over to BF.c to see if anything is going on and/or PM them to see.





Currently running 17x8.5 ET40 on Hankook RS3s (245/40). I also ran on Dunlop ZIIs with success.

Need a ton of camber in the front and rear with fender roll to make it work. It's possible though. PSS Tires aren't as "fat" so you'll be fine if you stick with those

What's your camber at?

[Kgolf31]

Originally Posted by chris82

What's your camber at?

-3.6* Upfront