Performance Exhaust install questions

vinylengraver · 01-21-2018, 01:19 PM

When replacing the resonator portion of the stock N55 midpipe with the PE Y-pipe:
-after midpipes are cut, are the Y-pipe ends supposed to butt-up snug against the remaining stock plumbing and the supplied clamps do the rest or are diameters different so the two sections are press-fit before clamps are tightened?
-is there a need for some sealer to prevent leaks?
-PE does not come with spring-loaded flange bolts - are the original ones reused or do I need to buy new ones?

Just trying to initially assess the feasibility/difficulty of doing this myself vs.letting the shop do the install...

Esteban · 01-21-2018, 01:41 PM

Love to help but I had my exhaust installed by a local reputable exhaust shop. Was quite a while ago but I think it cost me around $150. Worth it imo. Good luck with whatever you decide.

vinylengraver · 01-24-2018, 08:19 PM

Anyone else? I want to get it installed before She Who Must Be Obeyed has had enough of the huge box taking up the better portion of our home gym floorspace.
Something tells me it will be soon...

juld0zer · 01-25-2018, 03:26 AM

If you look inside the clamp you will see a sleeve. This will wrap around the two pipes and once tightened properly, there should only be minimal moisture leakage from the area which cannot be avoided - even brand new factory exhausts have pinholes in the welds where water weeps out and carries soot with it.

The two pipes do not have to butt up against each other but ideally close.
The clamp also provides some forgiveness for wonky cuts where the installer accidentally saws off too much

01-21-2018, 01:19 PM	#1
vinylengraver First Lieutenant 379 Rep 317 Posts Drives: 2012 BMW 135i Join Date: May 2017 Location: Langley, BC iTrader: (0)	Performance Exhaust install questions When replacing the resonator portion of the stock N55 midpipe with the PE Y-pipe: -after midpipes are cut, are the Y-pipe ends supposed to butt-up snug against the remaining stock plumbing and the supplied clamps do the rest or are diameters different so the two sections are press-fit before clamps are tightened? -is there a need for some sealer to prevent leaks? -PE does not come with spring-loaded flange bolts - are the original ones reused or do I need to buy new ones? Just trying to initially assess the feasibility/difficulty of doing this myself vs.letting the shop do the install...
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01-21-2018, 01:41 PM	#2
Esteban Major General 43592 Rep 7,224 Posts Drives: a slow car fast Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: SoCal iTrader: (0)	Love to help but I had my exhaust installed by a local reputable exhaust shop. Was quite a while ago but I think it cost me around $150. Worth it imo. Good luck with whatever you decide. __________________
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01-24-2018, 08:19 PM	#3
vinylengraver First Lieutenant 379 Rep 317 Posts Drives: 2012 BMW 135i Join Date: May 2017 Location: Langley, BC iTrader: (0)	Anyone else? I want to get it installed before She Who Must Be Obeyed has had enough of the huge box taking up the better portion of our home gym floorspace. Something tells me it will be soon...
	Appreciate 0 Quote

01-25-2018, 03:26 AM	#4
juld0zer Lieutenant Colonel 480 Rep 1,600 Posts Drives: Prev 135i 7DCT, Now 130i 6sp Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: 2153 iTrader: (0)	If you look inside the clamp you will see a sleeve. This will wrap around the two pipes and once tightened properly, there should only be minimal moisture leakage from the area which cannot be avoided - even brand new factory exhausts have pinholes in the welds where water weeps out and carries soot with it. The two pipes do not have to butt up against each other but ideally close. The clamp also provides some forgiveness for wonky cuts where the installer accidentally saws off too much
	Appreciate 0 Quote