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      06-15-2012, 06:09 PM   #1
RaptorKTM
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1 M CDV Delete - Holy Crap!!

Just had HG Motorsports (San Diego) modify my CDV valve and put it back in. Holy Crap, its like a new car. Engagement is precise, easy to shift, smooth, most of all the Clutch pedal has actual feel, doesn't feel numb.

If anyone has not yet done this mod, it requires some simple tools, and does not take more then an hour. HG motorsports in the process bled my brake and clutch system, and replaced the fluid with Motul RBF600, all in all I would not really do this in your own garage unless you are comfortable with properly bleeding the lines, I have read many threads where people pinch the line and think that will prevent leaking of fluid and wont require bleeding, THEY ARE WRONG. You must bleed the system and I suggest having a brake bleeder to keep constant pressure to bleed it correctly has HG used.
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      06-15-2012, 06:27 PM   #2
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Cheapest and one of the top 10 mods on a must list
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      06-15-2012, 06:54 PM   #3
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Gread mod. I was one who waited too long to do it. HG is a great shop too. Chris Frick is the man.
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      06-15-2012, 06:55 PM   #4
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yea known them for a while as well and they are one of really very very very few shops that are Legit.
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      06-15-2012, 08:34 PM   #5
ayao
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Man, just when I thought I was finished with (minor) modding.
Anyone know of any legit places up in Norcal?
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      06-15-2012, 10:20 PM   #6
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Because youre disconnecting the clutch line do you have to bleed each of the brakes as well? Just swapped to RBF600 and would love to do this, but dont want to have to bleed the whole system/open another $20 bottle of fluid for just a little top off....
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      06-15-2012, 10:35 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firechicken99 View Post
Because youre disconnecting the clutch line do you have to bleed each of the brakes as well? Just swapped to RBF600 and would love to do this, but dont want to have to bleed the whole system/open another $20 bottle of fluid for just a little top off....

Yes the brakes have to be bled as well being they are all interconnected through the same system.
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      06-15-2012, 11:10 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaptorKTM View Post
Yes the brakes have to be bled as well being they are all interconnected through the same system.
Damn... As much as I want this, it can wait to teh next fluid swap....

on second thought, would there be major fluid loss if you ordered the $15 part, took out the delay valve, and swapped it in place rather than remove from trans, remove valve, then replace?
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      06-15-2012, 11:11 PM   #9
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no your not going to loose much, and you dont have to swap to motul, you can just get the OEM product which is very inexpensive.
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      06-15-2012, 11:20 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaptorKTM View Post
Yes the brakes have to be bled as well being they are all interconnected through the same system.
No, the brakes do not have to be bled. Same reservoir, but different cylinders.
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      06-15-2012, 11:21 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firechicken99 View Post
On second thought, would there be major fluid loss if you ordered the $15 part, took out the delay valve, and swapped it in place rather than remove from trans, remove valve, then replace?
You're not going to loose much fluid at all either way. I used a rag and some vice grips to clamp the rubber line and lost a few drops at most. Didn't even bleed the clutch on my previous 330i after doing this.
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      06-15-2012, 11:50 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ayao
Man, just when I thought I was finished with (minor) modding.
Anyone know of any legit places up in Norcal?
Bay Area- Alekshop
Sactown- Schatz & Krum
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      06-16-2012, 12:13 AM   #13
ayao
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Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Metak2you View Post
Bay Area- Alekshop
Sactown- Schatz & Krum
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      06-16-2012, 01:14 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaptorKTM View Post
Yes the brakes have to be bled as well being they are all interconnected through the same system.
Great mod.. Drove it straight to my workshop after delivery and replaced the CDV.. After replacing it on my 135i, it was my No 1 mod for the 1M..

And NO... you dont have to bleed the brakes NOR the clutch if replaced correctly.. My tech just R & R the CDV..No bleeding of any kind required, if done professionly..
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      06-16-2012, 08:37 AM   #15
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Any Chicagoans out there that have a favorite indy or dealer to do this kind of thing?
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      06-16-2012, 08:53 AM   #16
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From my experience rbf600 is a high temperature racing brake fluid. Used in my race bike you will be required to replace this fluid every 3 months or sooner.

Further you inoculate brake and clutch feel will be amazing! However it will progressively fade as the fluid is more volatile than conventional.
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      06-16-2012, 08:53 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rapter
From my experience rbf600 is a high temperature racing brake fluid. Used in my race bike you will be required to replace this fluid every 3 months or sooner.

Further you inoculate brake and clutch feel will be amazing! However it will progressively fade as the fluid is more volatile than conventional.
Initial brake feel and clutch feel... iPhone typing.
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      06-16-2012, 10:13 AM   #18
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So, they just punched out the valve and put it back?

Are there and after-market solutions that may be better?

I read on the E46 forums about a metal valve replacement?

Probably will get this done with my 5000 mile oil change.
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      06-16-2012, 11:14 AM   #19
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So, anyone used this:

http://www.burgertuning.com/bmscdv.html

and this:

http://www.burgertuning.com/clutch_stop_BMW.html

are they supposed to be used together or mutually exclusive?
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      06-16-2012, 12:04 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b33g33 View Post
So, they just punched out the valve and put it back?

Are there and after-market solutions that may be better?

I read on the E46 forums about a metal valve replacement?

Probably will get this done with my 5000 mile oil change.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ozinaldo View Post
So, anyone used this:

http://www.burgertuning.com/bmscdv.html

and this:

http://www.burgertuning.com/clutch_stop_BMW.html

are they supposed to be used together or mutually exclusive?
Those dont need to be used together.

You can either completely remove the piece or tap out the restriction in the piece (effectively making what burger is selling you).

Guys you dont need a shop this will take you 10 mins to do.

Jack the car up, remove the plastic panel (approx 6-8 screws), clamp the hose, pull 2 pins, pull the CDV out, either plug the hose directly back in or remove the restriction and replace the cdv, then unclamp the hose, you may choose not to bleed although Id recommend bleeding it, then reverse install the parts you removed and youre done.

I did this for 3 members here one afternoon before lunch literally 10-15mins a piece
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      06-16-2012, 12:55 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaptorKTM View Post
no your not going to loose much, and you dont have to swap to motul, you can just get the OEM product which is very inexpensive.
I am already running RBF600


Quote:
Originally Posted by rapter View Post
From my experience rbf600 is a high temperature racing brake fluid. Used in my race bike you will be required to replace this fluid every 3 months or sooner....
Has that been your experience? When talking with other members it was generally noted the changes should be a bit less often than that, maybe twice a year. (note the car is road driven with a once a month HPDE/Time Attack if I can make it, and auto X etc.) so i am not racing it every weekend.
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      06-16-2012, 01:16 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Papethova View Post

Jack the car up, remove the plastic panel (approx 6-8 screws), clamp the hose, pull 2 pins, pull the CDV out, either plug the hose directly back in or remove the restriction and replace the cdv, then unclamp the hose, you may choose not to bleed although Id recommend bleeding it, then reverse install the parts you removed and youre done.
Can you clarify the bleeding . . . The brakes should NOT need any bleeding correct?

IIRC, bleeding the clutch only requires about 10 pumps of the pedal, no need for a pressure bleeder.
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