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      10-21-2017, 07:15 AM   #45
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Replace it as a preventative measure.

You don't want it failing in the middle of a back road when it's cold and raining or on a high speed motorway when a huge truck is tailgating you!
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      10-21-2017, 10:28 AM   #46
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I’m at 33k miles and just removed my water pump for a diverter valve upgrade yesterday. Me personally, I would wait. I don’t drive the car far enough that triple a wouldn’t be able to tow me back to my house. It’s a pretty straightforward repair. If you have a jack and basic hand tools, it can be done easily.
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      10-23-2017, 10:09 AM   #47
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It happened

My water pump just failed this past weekend. Got a quote from a indie shop for $1800 (WHAT??) and a quote from the dealership for ($1300). This is for both water pump and thermostat.
I have a 2012 135i (N55) with 98k miles
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      10-24-2017, 09:43 PM   #48
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Keep in mind once your car gets up there in miles there is no shame in looking at OEM remanufactured units. I just put in a Bosch remanufatured starter on my 128 at 80K miles at about half the cost of a new one.
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      10-25-2017, 08:32 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drogods View Post
The P3 Cars vent gauge lets you monitor coolant temp, plus a number of other parameters. Highly recommended.

FWIW, I have 74k miles and I believe mine is still the stock pump. I bought the car at 62k miles with minimal service history available (not smart I know). I have an extended warranty through 1st US AutoProtect. I have yet to invoke this warranty as nothing has failed in the 12k miles ive put on the car, but I just discovered a crack in my valve cover so I am hoping the replacement will be covered.

As for preemptive replacement of the pump, Ive decided to just wait for it to fail as I live in a cold climate and the pump doesnt have to work too hard to keep the temps down. Im not sure if that is a factor in what causes the pump to fail though. Even with extended sporty driving my coolant rarely goes over 200 degrees, and I only saw the oil temp go over 250 degrees once on a hot summer day after some extended hard driving.
I don't think cooler environmentals help in keeping these water pumps from failing. Look at the 135is owners who have had their pumps fail. These cars have the upgraded cooling hardware to include an additional radiator and a heavy duty radiator fan.
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      10-25-2017, 01:26 PM   #50
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I'm at 49K with my '09 and I'll wait too. Been thinking about it lately but I've got AAA and don't take any long trips anymore. Thanks for sharing what you were told at the dealer.
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      11-13-2017, 01:23 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by jkoral View Post
I've been told the same thing by multiple people, so I'm also going to leave it until it fails (and I don't think about it until these threads pop up). I'm at 75K on my 2009. But I never take it on long trips or go out of town. Always within 10-20 miles of BMW indys (and dealers, worst case).
I wrote that a month ago and mine failed this morning (still at 75,xxx).

Car was cold, I drove 2 miles away to stop at the bank. When I started the car, the fan came on high speed (I have the upgraded fan/oil cooler with PPK2). Usually don't hear that until hot summer months stopped in traffic. Water temp was still cold (150 degrees?). I watched the water temp on my steering wheel climb until 240 and limp mode. Pulled car over and let it cool. Noticed I was throwing codes on the P3 gauge (2e81 and 2e82 if you're curious). Let the temp drop to 200-210 (luckily chilly out) drove another 0.5 mile and pulled over again. Repeat. Thankfully only 2-3 miles from home. Back home and waiting for flat bed to bring it to my preferred indy (100 mile towing with AAA plus, my shop is 40-50 miles away).
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      11-13-2017, 08:20 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkoral View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkoral View Post
I've been told the same thing by multiple people, so I'm also going to leave it until it fails (and I don't think about it until these threads pop up). I'm at 75K on my 2009. But I never take it on long trips or go out of town. Always within 10-20 miles of BMW indys (and dealers, worst case).
I wrote that a month ago and mine failed this morning (still at 75,xxx).

Car was cold, I drove 2 miles away to stop at the bank. When I started the car, the fan came on high speed (I have the upgraded fan/oil cooler with PPK2). Usually don't hear that until hot summer months stopped in traffic. Water temp was still cold (150 degrees?). I watched the water temp on my steering wheel climb until 240 and limp mode. Pulled car over and let it cool. Noticed I was throwing codes on the P3 gauge (2e81 and 2e82 if you're curious). Let the temp drop to 200-210 (luckily chilly out) drove another 0.5 mile and pulled over again. Repeat. Thankfully only 2-3 miles from home. Back home and waiting for flat bed to bring it to my preferred indy (100 mile towing with AAA plus, my shop is 40-50 miles away).
water or oil temp?
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      11-13-2017, 09:25 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sandlion View Post
water or oil temp?
water (displayed via performance steering wheel and P3 gauge). The dash water symbol (yellow) came on and then limp mode (and maybe red water symbol for ~1 second as I was coasting to stop)
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      11-13-2017, 09:26 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkoral View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by sandlion View Post
water or oil temp?
water (displayed via performance steering wheel and P3 gauge). The dash water symbol (yellow) came on and then limp mode (and maybe red water symbol for ~1 second as I was coasting to stop)
cool to have water temp. that's just like mine went out at 60k.
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      11-17-2017, 10:45 PM   #55
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My 2009 135i is my weekend driver. It barely has a little over 84000 miles. Sunday, Nov 12 2017, the car overtemped...without warning. I got the amber warning indicator and a severe drop in power. It was as if I took my foot off the gas. 2 minutes later, I got the red and she wouldn't do jack-squat. I barely made it off the road. I had to let it cool for about 10 minutes before I could get farther off the road. Good thing it was 800AM on a Sunday and traffic was light. I had to tow it home. So I say to you, GET THAT PUMP AND THEMOSTAT REPLACED !!! Or push your luck and have it go out on the 405 freeway in Los Angeles, or on some remote mountain road with no cell service. Go ahead, don't mind me...what the heck do I know !!! Push that luck and have your own story to tell. And I'm not angry. I'm trying to convince you to get that pump AND thermostat replaced. Because if you don't, it will let your backside down at the most inopportune time.

Last edited by n2djazz; 11-17-2017 at 10:55 PM.
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      11-17-2017, 11:05 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n2djazz View Post
My 2009 135i is my weekend driver. It barely has 83000 just over miles. Sunday, Nov 12 2017, it overtemped without warning. I got the sudden amber warning and a severely drop in power. It was as if I had taken my foot off the gas. 2 minutes later, I got the red and she wouldn't do jack-squat. She had a fever and didn't have enough get-up-and-go to get completely off the road. I had to sit and let it cool for about 10 minutes before I could get my back-end off the road enough to feel comfortable. Good thing for me it was 800AM on a Sunday and traffic was light. So, I say to you the reader, GET THAT PUMP AND THEMOSTAT REPLACED !!! Or you can push your luck and have it go out on the 405 freeway in Los Angeles at rush hour, or in the twisties of some remote mountain road, with no cell service. Go ahead, don't mind me...what the heck do I know !!! Push that luck and have your own story to tell.
Good story, Jazz. Right on target. But, there's just this one thing... when to replace? If someone were really compulsive, they might have replaced their water pump at 40,000 miles, just in case. Then what? Again at 80,000 miles, just in case. So now, this compulsive someone has replaced their water pump twice and it had never failed. Not even once. And what about those unfortunate few whose pumps failed at 35,000 miles? What should they have done? Obviously, they should have changed their pumps out at 34,000 miles, right?

You see the problem. When is the right time? I feel like I have wasted too much energy fretting about this. I am just at 57,000 miles on my original water pump and I am going to keep going. So...when my pump fails at 58,000 miles way out in the middle of nowhere, you can all have a good laugh at my expense. I won't mind a bit. Really I won't.



Peace and love... Mack
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So, that's it. I am doomed. There is no patch, no methadone, no substitute. Curse you BMW. Curse you and your seamless power delivery. Curse the incredible sense of road feel. Curse the comfort, the luxury, the envious looks from the masses. I am... hopelessly addicted.
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      11-19-2017, 07:51 PM   #57
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I've no idea about my car's water pump history, but at 160k, roughly double the failure mileage, I've been browsing for deals on pumps and t-stats lately. I plan on doing a coolant flush in the near future, so I may as well do the pump and t-stat while everything's drained and opened-up.
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      11-19-2017, 09:44 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_flies View Post
I've no idea about my car's water pump history, but at 160k, roughly double the failure mileage, I've been browsing for deals on pumps and t-stats lately. I plan on doing a coolant flush in the near future, so I may as well do the pump and t-stat while everything's drained and opened-up.
How many miles were on the clock when you bought it? How do we know it wasn't replaced just before you bought it? I wonder if a knowledgeable mechanic could peek under your car and figure this out.

Just thinking out loud. On the other hand, if you put on a large portion of the 160K miles, you are probably wise to do the replacement now. Will you DIY? Several good YouTube videos including one by Otto at BavAuto.com. It is long and moves slowly, but it is exceptionally complete and very educational for a hack mechanic like me.



Peace... Mack
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So, that's it. I am doomed. There is no patch, no methadone, no substitute. Curse you BMW. Curse you and your seamless power delivery. Curse the incredible sense of road feel. Curse the comfort, the luxury, the envious looks from the masses. I am... hopelessly addicted.
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      11-20-2017, 06:40 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mackeroni View Post
How many miles were on the clock when you bought it? How do we know it wasn't replaced just before you bought it? I wonder if a knowledgeable mechanic could peek under your car and figure this out.

Just thinking out loud. On the other hand, if you put on a large portion of the 160K miles, you are probably wise to do the replacement now. Will you DIY? Several good YouTube videos including one by Otto at BavAuto.com. It is long and moves slowly, but it is exceptionally complete and very educational for a hack mechanic like me.



Peace... Mack
I purchased the car with about 159,700 miles on it. I'll have the car apart over the thanksgiving week/weekend to do my intake and fix the snapped head bolt I found recently. I'll peek under there and see how the thing looks.
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      11-20-2017, 10:57 PM   #60
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I purchased the car with about 159,700 miles on it. I'll have the car apart over the thanksgiving week/weekend to do my intake and fix the snapped head bolt I found recently. I'll peek under there and see how the thing looks.
Sounds like a fun week/weekend! Let us know how things turn out, please.
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So, that's it. I am doomed. There is no patch, no methadone, no substitute. Curse you BMW. Curse you and your seamless power delivery. Curse the incredible sense of road feel. Curse the comfort, the luxury, the envious looks from the masses. I am... hopelessly addicted.
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      11-21-2017, 10:40 AM   #61
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Was going through old service docs on the car I bought earlier this year. Somehow missed the coolant pump being replaced at 12k miles. It really seems like a crap shoot how long these things will last.
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      11-21-2017, 10:44 AM   #62
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Yup

Combine that with there typically being no external signs of impending doom and it's a special treat! They work great right up till they don't most of the time. Lucky are the few who get a week of high temps or fans running WOT- for most it seems to be the dash light of doom is the first notice that you'll be taking the day off...
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      11-21-2017, 03:56 PM   #63
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The president of our local BMWCCA club had to have his done 6 months or so ago at well over 100K miles. He was on a trip so he had to have it towed and pay what the repair place wanted. Another member showed him a website where the parts were about 1/2 what he was charged.

Makes me wonder if it might make sense to buy the parts and put them in the trunk. They shouldn't go bad riding around until they are needed. Not the kind of thing you want to do by the side of the road but if you have the parts and can find a DIY on you tube any car repair place should be able to get you back on the road (?)

If you watch the coolant temperature be prepared for it to be higher when steadily cruising than when you are on it a bit. BMW uses the pump speed and the thermostat to drive up temperature for better gas mileage - at least that is what I think is going on. A cheap way to monitor is via the torque app on your phone and a OBDII to bluetooth adapter on your car. Maybe $30. You can easily have a gauge of anything on your OBDII - virtually any sensor in your car.
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      11-21-2017, 04:43 PM   #64
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Quote:
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Makes me wonder if it might make sense to buy the parts and put them in the
I would think the only downside would be many small shops don't install customer supplied parts, since they make some additional profit on selling you parts at retail. Perhaps if you're stranded and SOL, and have the parts you might get lucky.

The ECS kit with genuine BMW parts runs $648 https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...1517632426kt3/ (Yes, I know buying OEM you can save a couple hundred, but I'm OK with genuine BMW parts).

My independent charged me $645 parts + 3.5 hours labor ($80/hour). Not as cheap as DIY, but a pretty good price from my perspective.
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      11-21-2017, 05:26 PM   #65
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I see it as an age or mileage dependent maintenance interval. The maximum I'd go would be 75k or 7 years. I've seen or heard of way too many cracked s/m50, s/m52, and m54 heads through the years. Not worth the risk, or the inconvenience to have it let go.
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      11-21-2017, 06:59 PM   #66
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I see it as an age or mileage dependent maintenance interval. The maximum I'd go would be 75k or 7 years. I've seen or heard of way too many cracked s/m50, s/m52, and m54 heads through the years. Not worth the risk, or the inconvenience to have it let go.
I just passed 7 years (Oct 2010). Does this mean I could soon be a victim of the dreaded water pump failure? Low miles, going on 35K. Is anyone safe? lol
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