oil level

[NorthernDancer]

This is just for information purposes. I winter store my car [128] every winter and change my oil just before. I also only put 5½ litres [5.8 USQts] into the engine, leaving 1 litre [1 USQ] on the drivers floor to put into the engine in spring.
This year I mistakingly only put 5L [5.3Q] in. My oil level gauge read about 1/8th inch below the minimum level and I did get an oil level warning but not immediately [likely oil too cold to measure]. I then added ½L [.53qt] and the oil gauge showed right in the middle so I'm OK now. However, next spring I'll just add ½L and see what the gauge says. In theory, I should still be ½L low, but we'll see.
I believe our 128 engine capacity is 6.5L or an even 7 USQts.

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by NorthernDancer

This is just for information purposes. I winter store my car [128] every winter and change my oil just before. I also only put 5½ litres [5.8 USQts] into the engine, leaving 1 litre [1 USQ] on the drivers floor to put into the engine in spring.
This year I mistakingly only put 5L [5.3Q] in. My oil level gauge read about 1/8th inch below the minimum level and I did get an oil level warning but not immediately [likely oil too cold to measure]. I then added ½L [.53qt] and the oil gauge showed right in the middle so I'm OK now. However, next spring I'll just add ½L and see what the gauge says. In theory, I should still be ½L low, but we'll see.
I believe our 128 engine capacity is 6.5L or an even 7 USQts.

It's 6.5 L or 7.0 quarts. When I change my oil I do it at full operating temp, let it drain for at least an hour, and suck the remainder out of the housing. I always add 7.0 L and it always shows perfect level. Why would you intentionally under fill it?

[BMWCCA1]

Originally Posted by NorthernDancer

I winter store my car [128] every winter and change my oil just before. I also only put 5½ litres [5.8 USQts] into the engine, leaving 1 litre [1 USQ] on the drivers floor to put into the engine in spring.

Just curious: Why?

[NorthernDancer]

Just my OCD thinking that maybe something in the upper engine will get lubricated after sitting for 4-5 months over winter.

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by NorthernDancer

Just my OCD thinking that maybe something in the upper engine will get lubricated after sitting for 4-5 months over winter.

Best thing to do is disconnect the fuel injection/ignition coil harness from the DME and turn it over for 10-15 seconds and get the oil moving. If you pour oil into the filler, it just runs down the drains into the pan anyways.

[BMWCCA1]

Originally Posted by NorthernDancer

Just my OCD thinking that maybe something in the upper engine will get lubricated after sitting for 4-5 months over winter.

It won't.

For long-term storage you could fill the crankcase to the valve cover with kerosene, but I'd not recommend that for you.

[NorthernDancer]

I concede; gentlemen I will follow your advice from now on. Thanks

[Olgeezer1]

You're not alone NorthernDancer. I do the same. Change before storage, adding 6 litres with the last 1/2 litre going in just before start-up to have some oil in the top of the engine. Might help and certainly can't do any harm. I am surprised your oil level shows a difference. Mine is not nearly as sensitive. 6 litres shows full, add 1/2 litre in the spring and it reads exactly the same. Wouldn't a dipstick be a wonderful thing.

[Olgeezer1]

Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech

It's 6.5 L or 7.0 quarts. When I change my oil I do it at full operating temp, let it drain for at least an hour, and suck the remainder out of the housing. I always add 7.0 L and it always shows perfect level. Why would you intentionally under fill it?

MightyMouse : Any danger of overfill w/ 7 litres? I've heard from guys that use 7 litres if tracking to have a little extra to guard against starvation in the corners but have wondered about overfill causing frothing. I don't trust the electronic oil level at all. Appreciate your input.

[iminhell1]

Overfill can be more likely to cause seal leaks.
Part of the reason the level is 7qt is because the remaining air volume in the crank case is used by the displacement of the pistons. If you run more oil, you reduce that volume and raise the chance of pressure in the CC.
There is also a flow/RPM limitation to keep in mind.


None of the volumes inside an engine are random. All are interlinked and should not be altered unless the reason they are what they are is fully understood. Air is just as much a fluid as oil, coolant, grease, etc.

[NorthernDancer]

The above makes sense. Mike Miller also recommends keeping the coolant at the MIN mark to give more room for expansion.

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by NorthernDancer

The above makes sense. Mike Miller also recommends keeping the coolant at the MIN mark to give more room for expansion.

Yes, don't overfill coolant, it is a sealed system and needs a little expansion room, can cause the coolant reservoir to crack.
The oil system luckily is NOT a sealed system, a little extra will absolutely not change "the volume inside the engine", and will not cause seals to leak. I drain the oil so well I need the extra 0.5L, couple times I have added only 6.5 and it did not show full.

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by iminhell1

Overfill can be more likely to cause seal leaks.
Part of the reason the level is 7qt is because the remaining air volume in the crank case is used by the displacement of the pistons. If you run more oil, you reduce that volume and raise the chance of pressure in the CC.
There is also a flow/RPM limitation to keep in mind.


None of the volumes inside an engine are random. All are interlinked and should not be altered unless the reason they are what they are is fully understood. Air is just as much a fluid as oil, coolant, grease, etc.

Sorry, but that does not make any sense. The inside of the engine is not a sealed system.

[iminhell1]

Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech

Sorry, but that does not make any sense. The inside of the engine is not a sealed system.

But it is, with controlled leaks; air (PCV) and blow-by. All of which go back to the intake, emissions dictates this.

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by iminhell1

But it is, with controlled leaks; air (PCV) and blow-by. All of which go back to the intake, emissions dictates this.

No. It's not.

[gjm120]

Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech

No. It's not.

Maybe it was due to something else, but, after an oil change I didn't tighten the fill cap completely and the car ran terrible. Tightened it up and ran fine.

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by gjm120

Maybe it was due to something else, but, after an oil change I didn't tighten the fill cap completely and the car ran terrible. Tightened it up and ran fine.

Because you created a vacuum leak. Our sumps run at a vacuum from the vacuum pump.

[gjm120]

Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech

Because you created a vacuum leak. Our sumps run at a vacuum from the vacuum pump.

Funny story.... On a recent oil change I wasn't sure if I'd changed the o-ring on the drain plug. Being OCD I wanted to be sure and decided I'd put on one I had. So opened the filler cap, put a piece of cloth over it, had my son hold a vacuum cleaner hose over the cloth and removed the drain plug without spilling a drop.

[jdt10768]

why not just go start the car every 2 to 3 weeks during storage, and let it come to running temp? fill level at 7 qts should be fine for storage . . .

[NorthernDancer]

Originally Posted by jdt10768

why not just go start the car every 2 to 3 weeks during storage, and let it come to running temp? fill level at 7 qts should be fine for storage . . .

It's highly recommended by many experts NOT to start the car once in storage. I follow this advice & have been with different cars for 16 years.

[Olgeezer1]

Originally Posted by NorthernDancer

It's highly recommended by many experts NOT to start the car once in storage. I follow this advice & have been with different cars for 16 years.

Agree. Once she's in storage, no starting till spring, unless you're able to get out for at least a 1/2 hr. drive. Idling in the garage just creates condensation in the motor, oil and exhaust system which doesn't get hot enough, long enough to burn it off. Sitting for 5 months on a Smart Charger does no harm at all.

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by jdt10768

why not just go start the car every 2 to 3 weeks during storage, and let it come to running temp? fill level at 7 qts should be fine for storage . . .

Worst thing you can do. Will get water buildup in the exhaust and oil.