Brakes: 135i vs 1series M coupè

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Originally Posted by CDR_UK

hopefully they will put proper brembos and not the cheap excuse that is on the 135i...

now that I doubt will happen on a "budget" M car...

[Red Bread]

Originally Posted by CDR_UK

hopefully they will put proper brembos and not the cheap excuse that is on the 135i...

Technically, the 135i calipers are made by Brembo, but the pistons and pads are certainly subpar. Same goes for the STi and 370z.

[008]

Even the cheap excuses that are used on the 135 with proper discs are better than the swing arms used on all other Ms. Holes in rotors do not aid cooling. Mass does. It is the transfer of kinetic energy. You need the mass to absorb the energy and dissapate it. Vented discs, which are the vanes that separate the faces do aid in cooling but the small hoes are merely cosmetic. You don't see any racecars with drilled or cast holes in the rotors. They are solid with grooves for water dispersion. With older compound pads gasses did build up and need to be vented but that is no longer the case. BMW needs to step up there braking systems if they ever want to be taken seriously in the performance arena.

[008]

Read in another threas Scott stated the 1M would have 6 piston calipers but it doesn't look like it in the latest videos. Scott, care to comment?

[DRG420]

the 1M brakes are identical to the M3 in every way. they will hold up while spirited driving, but die pretty fast on track. I have used the OEM setup at first and warped the front rotors during 1 full day at track. changed rotors to OEM again, fitted PFC 08 pads, SS brake lines, AP racing fluids. worked on track, no fade and huge increase in stopping power. destroyed rotors in 4 events. unbearable squeal during DD drive, so swopped them back to stock and then PFC back for track time. no brake issues at all, but rotors wore down fast. 2 month ago, I bought EBC Yellowstuff, and will probably never change. no squeal and perfect modulation during DD, stock stoping power cold / better warm. on track the Yellowstuff holds up for the longest time and the fade is very progressive when it does come in. never swop them, they are just in the whole time. so for me, Goodridge brake lines, AP Racing fluid, EBC Yellow pads and a set of Ohlins R&T coilovers. I race in a Time Attack series / street pro class and the car is holding up just fine.

[bdaddylo]

Originally Posted by DRG420

the 1M brakes are identical to the M3 in every way. they will hold up while spirited driving, but die pretty fast on track. I have used the OEM setup at first and warped the front rotors during 1 full day at track. changed rotors to OEM again, fitted PFC 08 pads, SS brake lines, AP racing fluids. worked on track, no fade and huge increase in stopping power. destroyed rotors in 4 events. unbearable squeal during DD drive, so swopped them back to stock and then PFC back for track time. no brake issues at all, but rotors wore down fast. 2 month ago, I bought EBC Yellowstuff, and will probably never change. no squeal and perfect modulation during DD, stock stoping power cold / better warm. on track the Yellowstuff holds up for the longest time and the fade is very progressive when it does come in. never swop them, they are just in the whole time. so for me, Goodridge brake lines, AP Racing fluid, EBC Yellow pads and a set of Ohlins R&T coilovers. I race in a Time Attack series / street pro class and the car is holding up just fine.

Can you elaborate on how you destroyed the rotors in 4 events? Were they worn below spec? PFC-08 are enduro pads and are supposed to be very low abraded disc wear.

[DRG420]

Originally Posted by bdaddylo

Can you elaborate on how you destroyed the rotors in 4 events? Were they worn below spec? PFC-08 are enduro pads and are supposed to be very low abraded disc wear.

no idea how or why, but the discs warped after a just 4 full day events. it seemed like the stock rotors got too hot (how do I attach a picture here? i have one where the rotors are glowing red) with carbon-metallic compound of PFC08. and the rotors simply warped, they got small grooves and resulted in vibrating steering wheel under braking. first i thought it was just deposits from the pad in the drill holes and tried cleaning and re-bedding - but vibration stayed. then a simple check, ran my fingers on the rotors and it felt not flat. had it checked by a proper machine and it warped. the end.

im using new, still stock rotors with EBC Yellowstuff from the start. its good so far. EBC Yellow does not have the stopping power of PFC at all, but had no issues with vibrating and I can use it in DD with no noise at all. PFC was a pig on the street. still have the PFC08 set with about 60/70% life in them and wont use them again, so its up for grabs if anyone interested.

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Originally Posted by DRG420

no idea how or why, but the discs warped after a just 4 full day events. it seemed like the stock rotors got too hot (how do I attach a picture here? i have one where the rotors are glowing red) with carbon-metallic compound of PFC08. and the rotors simply warped, they got small grooves and resulted in vibrating steering wheel under braking. first i thought it was just deposits from the pad in the drill holes and tried cleaning and re-bedding - but vibration stayed. then a simple check, ran my fingers on the rotors and it felt not flat. had it checked by a proper machine and it warped. the end.

im using new, still stock rotors with EBC Yellowstuff from the start. its good so far. EBC Yellow does not have the stopping power of PFC at all, but had no issues with vibrating and I can use it in DD with no noise at all. PFC was a pig on the street. still have the PFC08 set with about 60/70% life in them and wont use them again, so its up for grabs if anyone interested.

Just came back from a trackway at VIR, very high speed track, two straights worth 140mph+, and had no issues with brakes - and my car is heavier. The solution? I've been using Pagid yellows RS 19 for a few years. They are a little more expensive than other track pads at around $600 per set, but they hold up very well, last twice as long and are incredibly rotor friendly.

Try these, you won't be disappointed. Especially on the lighter 1M, these should rock.