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      04-07-2012, 05:18 AM   #1
mcmn
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Cleaning Intake Manifold

Hi,

Awaiting arrival of a new OCC; I'm looking at how I can get rid of the carbon build up on the intake.

I've done some reading, people are suggesting things from seafoam, carb cleaner all the way to walnut blasting.

... I am thinking of giving this a go... can anyone see a reason against this?

http://www.aircooledtech.com/tools-o.../soda_blaster/
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      04-07-2012, 05:42 AM   #2
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Need to let it soak a while to get out the excess soda, and maybe change water out a few times...

Although it depends on location and mileage, I wouldn't think there isn't anywhere near as much carbon build up on a MY10 intake as the ones in those before / after shots
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      04-07-2012, 05:43 AM   #3
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I think you can buy special gun from some local shop maybe even cheaper.
Or you can try Liqui Moly Klappen Reiniger
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      04-07-2012, 07:25 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RimasRS View Post
I think you can buy special gun from some local shop maybe even cheaper.
Or you can try Liqui Moly Klappen Reiniger

YuP! I was just gonna suggest this product. I think Seafoam would work well... but I can't find it over here. I just bought a can of this Liqui Moly Klappen Reiniger (LM throttle body/intake manifold cleaner) to use in my (new to me) '99 e39.
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      04-07-2012, 08:22 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
YuP! I was just gonna suggest this product. I think Seafoam would work well... but I can't find it over here. I just bought a can of this Liqui Moly Klappen Reiniger (LM throttle body/intake manifold cleaner) to use in my (new to me) '99 e39.
Wow David congrats you bought a second car?
I believe this one is diesel?
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      04-07-2012, 01:16 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by RimasRS View Post
Wow David congrats you bought a second car?
I believe this one is diesel?

Noop! 535iA, 3.5L V8 automatic with sport seats and lots of extras. Lots of kms though. BMW AG used to own the car by chance - so it is very unusual - in that it has cloth red sport seats and some nice options. But I have almost gone thru the entire car making it all new. Funny thing is... even though its a V8 with 245 PS it gets BETTER gas mileage than my 135i! lol I can get 11L/100kph with it vs 12 to 14L in my 135i. lol I enjoy both cars though.
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      04-07-2012, 07:47 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
Noop! 535iA, 3.5L V8 automatic with sport seats and lots of extras. Lots of kms though. BMW AG used to own the car by chance - so it is very unusual - in that it has cloth red sport seats and some nice options. But I have almost gone thru the entire car making it all new. Funny thing is... even though its a V8 with 245 PS it gets BETTER gas mileage than my 135i! lol I can get 11L/100kph with it vs 12 to 14L in my 135i. lol I enjoy both cars though.
Congrats Dackelone! Sounds like a beauty!

Pics???
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      04-08-2012, 04:09 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by alik01 View Post
Congrats Dackelone! Sounds like a beauty!

Pics???

Here you go... (sorry to thread-jack!)This was before I got the car and cleaned her up...



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      04-08-2012, 08:17 PM   #9
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Nice Dack! Not being direct injected (tell me if I'm wrong), the E39 won't have the same carbon build up issues as ours though.
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      04-08-2012, 08:24 PM   #10
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Looks nice Dack. I'm sure it's a nice ride.
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      04-08-2012, 09:22 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
Here you go... (sorry to thread-jack!)This was before I got the car and cleaned her up...
Looks awesome Dackelone. The colour combo and interior are just stunning. I love the wood panelling with the red leather, such a nice contrast that really works. Looks to be in great shape as well.

Congrats!
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      04-09-2012, 09:03 AM   #12
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^^Thanks guys.


Getting back on topic... I ran a bottle of this Liqui Moly Klappen Reiniger thru my old 5er this weekend. Really makes a difference in smoothness at idle. I sprayed down the throttle body and then flipped it open and used the 1m long tube to spray down inside the intake manifold. Then I put the MAF boot back on and started the engine. I then used a vacuum port just before the throttle body and rev'd the engine and sprayed the rest of the can into teh engine. Reving to 5K and back down to 3K and back up... the engine would pop and bang some... but its all good. Some smoke will also come out the exhuast. I then changed the engine oil and took her out on a test drive. I am happy with the results. You can't beat this stuff for ten euros a can.

I also use LM fuel injector cleaner and valve deposit cleaner as well. I bought a LM spray can that cleans the MAF hot wire sensor. Some say it makes the engine feel more powerfull and use less fuel - after you clean the MAF sensor. I'm gonna use that in a day or two on my ne-used ride.


Dack
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      04-09-2012, 09:58 AM   #13
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Cool car Dack. I've driven my fair share of e39s and just love the way they overheat! Hehe... hope yours never develops the same issue

On topic: This thread is pretty interesting - http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=673527
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      04-10-2012, 03:12 AM   #14
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I believe the manifold itself is the plastic part which doesn't get any carbon buildup on it, more so the cylinder head where the injectors are is where the carbon is??

Do you need to remove the whole cylinder head to perform this procedure?

If you walnut blast the carbon off the cylinder walls won't the bits of crap just get consumed by the engine?

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      04-10-2012, 05:39 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmroxm5 View Post
I believe the manifold itself is the plastic part which doesn't get any carbon buildup on it, more so the cylinder head where the injectors are is where the carbon is??

Do you need to remove the whole cylinder head to perform this procedure?

If you walnut blast the carbon off the cylinder walls won't the bits of crap just get consumed by the engine?

As I understand it...
Buildup isn't on the cylinder walls. It's on the; inlet track, valve heads, valve stems etc. Yeah, when you blast/clean it up you don't want the engine "consuming" it. You want to clean it up with the valves closed and vacuum it out before the valves are opened and the gunk falls in. Taking the head off may be the best solution but a PITA to do.
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      04-10-2012, 05:56 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmroxm5 View Post
I believe the manifold itself is the plastic part which doesn't get any carbon buildup on it, more so the cylinder head where the injectors are is where the carbon is??

Do you need to remove the whole cylinder head to perform this procedure?

If you walnut blast the carbon off the cylinder walls won't the bits of crap just get consumed by the engine?

This is for most direct injection engines. Yes you would need to remove the inlet manifold, And do each pair of inlet valves one cylinder at a time. You would need to rotate the engine each time you have cleaned each pair of valves so as to keep the valves closed, if you get this wrong you will trash your engine. You should never attempt this job if you don't know what you are doing. It would be like poring sand down the spark plug hole, be warned

Best to take it to your Mechanic and just pay the money wont be cheap but you could save a heap in the long run
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      04-10-2012, 07:53 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skycat View Post
This is for most direct injection engines. Yes you would need to remove the inlet manifold, And do each pair of inlet valves one cylinder at a time. You would need to rotate the engine each time you have cleaned each pair of valves so as to keep the valves closed, if you get this wrong you will trash your engine. You should never attempt this job if you don't know what you are doing. It would be like poring sand down the spark plug hole, be warned

Best to take it to your Mechanic and just pay the money wont be cheap but you could save a heap in the long run
There is a howto on n54tech which demonstrates how to do this work at home using tools you can buy from supercheap. From memory, you need a slab of carby cleaneer, and wet/dry vac. You'd need to remove the intake manifold, and move the car (if its a manual) so that the valves are closed. Then spray the carby cleaner in whilst someone else vacuums. Repeat!
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      04-10-2012, 08:05 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dontask View Post
There is a howto on n54tech which demonstrates how to do this work at home using tools you can buy from supercheap. From memory, you need a slab of carby cleaneer, and wet/dry vac. You'd need to remove the intake manifold, and move the car (if its a manual) so that the valves are closed. Then spray the carby cleaner in whilst someone else vacuums. Repeat!
It's a decent review with lots of photos. I really want to do this on my car. Not sure if I should tackle it myself or take it to a workshop. Everyone says it takes 7+ hours
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      04-10-2012, 08:12 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW86 View Post
It's a decent review with lots of photos. I really want to do this on my car. Not sure if I should tackle it myself or take it to a workshop. Everyone says it takes 7+ hours
Fark that, sounds like getting some rhino ramps and installing your own DP's imho. I'd prefer to go to the pub

if you ever did do it i'd wager you'd never do it again and laugh at why the fark you thought it was a good idea in the first place.
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      04-10-2012, 08:39 PM   #20
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i usually just run a can of carb cleaner through once in a while. Pull one of the vacuum line off the bov and get someone/ something to keep the car at around 2k rpm and spray into the vacuum line in pulses. Will probably do nothing to the hardened build up but at least it seems to do enough to smooth out the idle and give slightly better throttle response after.
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      04-10-2012, 08:43 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pavo335 View Post
Fark that, sounds like getting some rhino ramps and installing your own DP's imho. I'd prefer to go to the pub

if you ever did do it i'd wager you'd never do it again and laugh at why the fark you thought it was a good idea in the first place.
The only reason I like DIY's is because I know if I do it myself, I know I'll do it right, that is provided I know what I'm doing. In my experience, I haven't come across any workshops that treat the car as if it were their own. I've attempted a few DIY's and half way through I'm cursing and losing my cool but when I'm finished I'm glad I gave it a go because it was done properly, I learnt a bit more about the car and I saved a few bucks which is always good as it funds my addiction.

In the case of DP's, I took that to a workshop to have that installed. IMHO, it should be left to the professionals unless you have access to a hoist, at the very least. This job looks like it's very tedious and it's hard to access everything. Also, making a mistake could be very costly, so lots of research needs to be done.
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      04-10-2012, 08:46 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ansch View Post
i usually just run a can of carb cleaner through once in a while. Pull one of the vacuum line off the bov and get someone/ something to keep the car at around 2k rpm and spray into the vacuum line in pulses. Will probably do nothing to the hardened build up but at least it seems to do enough to smooth out the idle and give slightly better throttle response after.
It's been established that the carb cleaner and seafoam etc do nothing for the hardened build up because it's caked on. From the photos I've seen it looks like you're going to need a fair few brushes and the right products to get all that nasty stuff out. Unfortunately, it's the only way to do it properly
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