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      08-16-2009, 10:29 AM   #1
trboboost91
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Anyone tracking their auto 135i???

please chime in here if you are tracking your auto 135i.
i did a couple auto-x's weekends and then went to the road course and 3'rd session my engine let go.

just trying to pinpoint a cause cause it seems pretty random.
dealer said a fuel injector stuck open causing the engine to hydrolock.

dosent seem like anyone else is having a problem.

mods were JB3, DCI, mini battery, kosei K1 wheels w/bf R1 slicks.
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      08-16-2009, 11:02 AM   #2
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Tell me more. When you say "let go", do you mean blew up?

I have taken my 135 6M to the track several times and it ran very well.

Are they saying that enough fuel sprayed into the cylinder for hydrolock?

Are they giving you any grief about covering the damage?
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      08-16-2009, 09:12 PM   #3
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Damn dude, you weren't kidding.
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      08-16-2009, 10:09 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trboboost91 View Post
please chime in here if you are tracking your auto 135i.
i did a couple auto-x's weekends and then went to the road course and 3'rd session my engine let go.

just trying to pinpoint a cause cause it seems pretty random.
dealer said a fuel injector stuck open causing the engine to hydrolock.

dosent seem like anyone else is having a problem.

mods were JB3, DCI, mini battery, kosei K1 wheels w/bf R1 slicks.
Not sure if this relates, but every time i've tracked my car the fuel pump
had to have been replaced ( 3 times now) I'm running a JB+ at 75%. Now scared as shit to track my car. I'm going to try the Pro Fuel Controller, by CP-E. If this doesn't work i'll be throwing some "lemons" at BMW.
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      08-16-2009, 10:15 PM   #5
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Wow that completely sucks.

The bumper is toast.

Damn...
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      08-17-2009, 06:14 PM   #6
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Completed 5 track days with my 135i coupe auto, no problems. Just limp mode once after filling-up with Shell gas. No fuel pump probs. either.

Each track day (Buttonwillow & Streets of Willow, CA) was 4-5 sessions (20-25 min. ea.). Top spd approx. 127 mph indicated.
Oh... and five 1/4 mi. drag strip runs... 13.4 sec.
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      08-18-2009, 08:37 AM   #7
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I auto-x my 135i and I noticed some strange things last sunday. I think I may have a damaged sensor. After pulling my 2nd run my car still read 230 degrees? Then it cooled to 220. Nothing else seemed to be wrong so I kept running. The car says it never got above 240 the whole day. Normally after my 2nd run i'm up at around 255-260.

I opened the hood every run just incase my heat sensor was broken.
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      09-30-2009, 11:29 AM   #8
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My car overheated once after some very aggressive Vmax test uphill. Funny thing was it just showed me the yellow radiator warning and said drive slowly and shut off ASAP. I pulled over and in 2 seconds it went red!! Oil temp was just 255F though, and no limp either. I think you gotta be careful with the tunes. Mine was Dinan Stage 2 at the time. Made me realize why they insist on an oil cooler. In my case I talked to a tech and he said it probably was due to insufficient airflow under heavy load. usually the oil heats up much earlier than the water. But sorry to see this happened to you man, I think if you have a tune you should be careful is what this shows.
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      09-30-2009, 02:52 PM   #9
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I have an auto 135i that i did the Car clinic and AutoX with. Nothing wrong over here. I always left the motor running after each run. Temp was always the middle line. I drove it in S mode w/ DTC not all the way off.

I have JB2 & BMS single intake.

Sorry to hear about your 1.
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      09-30-2009, 03:56 PM   #10
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Auto Trans might be fine for drag strip; but, the heat loads in a 20 to 30 minute session are way more then the trans cooler is prepared for. You might be able to install an aux trans cooler. Was it only one cylinder, I can't see the pictures very well at work.
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      09-30-2009, 04:09 PM   #11
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Next cylinder looks toast too to me.
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      09-30-2009, 04:13 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by white911 View Post
Auto Trans might be fine for drag strip; but, the heat loads in a 20 to 30 minute session are way more then the trans cooler is prepared for. You might be able to install an aux trans cooler. Was it only one cylinder, I can't see the pictures very well at work.
The ZF auto in the 135i has a massive heat sink and is capable of more than you think.
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      09-30-2009, 04:21 PM   #13
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Looks like piston broke off. Connecting rod clearly broken in the picture. Cylinderhead looks semi melted, and the fire in the back of the exhaust too suggest raw A/F mixture came out back and ignited. I don't think transmission has anything to do with this at all. As mentioned in the post here, it probably is all related to injector malfunction imo.
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      10-01-2009, 07:37 AM   #14
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Wow, I'm planning to take mine out for an autocross on Sunday (my first), and this thread makes me nervous!
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      10-01-2009, 07:42 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vase330 View Post
Looks like piston broke off. Connecting rod clearly broken in the picture.
Yep, that's definitely what happened, but are those sleeves I'm seeing? When I did the same thing to my STi motor, the broken rod turned the block in to swiss cheese!

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      10-01-2009, 10:38 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drlbrill View Post
Wow, I'm planning to take mine out for an autocross on Sunday (my first), and this thread makes me nervous!
Dont be. Ive auto-xed my car plenty of times. and I have a step.
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      10-02-2009, 11:48 AM   #17
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Wow, that's crazy. I have a 128 w/step and I didn't have any issues during autox. No lights, no overheating, no steering fluid leaks, nothing.
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      10-02-2009, 11:55 AM   #18
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wow!!! Thanks for the info!
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      10-08-2009, 03:39 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigmicj View Post
Wow, that's crazy. I have a 128 w/step and I didn't have any issues during autox. No lights, no overheating, no steering fluid leaks, nothing.
Your car not tuned either is it? I suspect a tune makes it easier to do this to your car. Yeah I am tuned too, but you have to admit we also probably don't know the entire story here. Not asking for all the details, thanks for just the enlightenment, but who knows what really truly transpired that led to this. Not accusing the owner, just wondering what the factors truly were, and the owner may not know the answer to this either. Either way, if the car was 100% stock, it would be easier not to speculate so much. Sorry this happened, its not good for anyone, let alone the owner.
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      11-04-2009, 06:18 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trboboost91 View Post
when i say "let go" i mean. BLEW WAY THE FUDGE UP!!!

piston was destroyed, rod was mangled, cylinder walls were gouged beyond belief. exhaust was filled with gas causing back of the car to start on fire!

no grief about coverage though, only question was "have you taken this to the track?"

they saw my M3 lower control arms.

bottom line is im trying to determine what the cause of failure was.

are the auto cars ANY different from the manuals on a track?
was it just a fluke? or are these cars really not fit for track use? maybe because of super high oil temps.

just to clarify i got NO limp mode! just the Limp home!

ahhh That is terrible to see, is it fixed? Best wishes
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      11-13-2009, 05:53 PM   #21
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You paying for that out of pocket?

Dealer fixing it (doubtful)

Turning it in to your insurance? Is that even covered (doubtful)


Sorry, but you seem pretty caviler about destroying your engine. Last I checked, they weren't cheap to fix... soo....?
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      11-14-2009, 12:09 PM   #22
trboboost91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feyd View Post
You paying for that out of pocket?

Dealer fixing it (doubtful)

Turning it in to your insurance? Is that even covered (doubtful)


Sorry, but you seem pretty caviler about destroying your engine. Last I checked, they weren't cheap to fix... soo....?
why would i pay out of pocket?
the car has 9,000 miles!

if these cars cant handle a road course and jb3 on map 3 then they arent worth a damn! period.
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