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11-24-2011, 07:39 PM | #67 |
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not sure what other peoplr think but i bought mine from bruce lynton in feb with 4000k on it & i couldn't be happier. IMO buying second hand would be more of a risk. most of the time demos go out you have a dealer with you & you are normally in suburbia anyway. these cars are made to give them a squirt now & then.good luck with it.
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11-24-2011, 07:58 PM | #68 |
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buying a car interstate is easy, I've done it thrice now.
get a blue slip ($50), organise CTP, fill out an application for new registration and you're all done with the RTA. I've always driven them back though (namly Melbourne/Canberra -> Sydney) and its a good chance to get acquainted with your new baby |
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11-24-2011, 08:02 PM | #69 |
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Anyone baught an ex-demo and had issues with it? I have always just assumed they would be used and abused but when you think about it, keeping them in good nick could only mean better asking prices which is all they care about.
Free transport would be good but if I did go with an ex-demo I would only low-ball them (i.e. $10-15,000 less than what they are asking, which i guess might not be so successful) but if I get the deal I doubt they would chuck that in as well, but could try I guess. If I purchased privately interstate, do I have to organise an interstate rego permit or something along those lines? Havent looked into the details yet so just getting a general idea. |
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11-24-2011, 08:07 PM | #70 | |
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11-24-2011, 08:18 PM | #71 |
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11-24-2011, 08:18 PM | #72 |
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I think it's best to know what your budget is and then find a car that works around it.
Demo used whatever, just buy a car that you're confident its been looked after. I personally would prefer a car with 10000kms that was looked after than 1000kms being thrashed around. |
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11-24-2011, 08:46 PM | #73 | |
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1. Hand over cheque/cash/item of barter to the seller 2. Get them to sign the rego papers (make sure to put the sale amount at a lower amount eg: 35k) 3. Prepare an invoice before hand and get them to sign that (you'll need it for the cancellation of rego in the seller's home state) If car is unregistered: 1. You can apply for a temporary registration for a nominal fee, which allows you to drive the car and not bear number plates for 7days. 2. Then when in Sydney, same process applies, eg: get the blue slip, CTP and get it registered. |
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11-27-2011, 05:58 AM | #74 |
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Hi All,
I've been currently looking myself. I notice the under 60k 08-09 135is sold via bmw dealerships (approved or whatever) are getting snapped up fairly quick! I check carsales etc everyday. Not sure if its because of warranty or finance offered by bmw. Hopefully my 370z sells quick! always cheaper for cash! |
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11-27-2011, 06:05 AM | #75 | |
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Last edited by banglemangle; 11-27-2011 at 06:06 AM.. Reason: banglebungle |
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11-27-2011, 06:15 AM | #76 | |
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12-13-2011, 06:57 PM | #77 | |
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Also, I have heard many times that end of financial year/end of calender year/end of quarter are the best times to lowball a dealer - has anyone actually found this to be true? I am thinking now might be a good time to grab a used 135i from a dealer for only private sale prices. |
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12-13-2011, 07:06 PM | #78 |
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The dealer sold "BMW Premium Selection" cars come with a 1year warranty as part of their price.
The dealers will also sell you extended warranty on-top of that. |
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12-17-2011, 04:24 PM | #79 |
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Having trouble finding the car that has the options I want and not sure what concessions I should make.
I was always under the impression that the 135i had idrive as standard, much like xenons, so I was surprised to see so many on the used market without it (only 1/3 seem to have ticked that box) So how many of you on this forum have it? Is it a must have option? I have only used it very briefly on another forum members car so didn't really see all the benefits of it. Most other cars from this era have a lcd screen based info-tainment system, so I thought it a must for my new (used) car but now I am not so sure. Any advice appreciated? |
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12-17-2011, 09:48 PM | #80 | |
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It's definitely not a must-have option. In fact my car has ZERO options.
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12-17-2011, 10:32 PM | #81 |
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I have iDrive and love it. Do I need it ... No. Did I want it ... Yes.
I'd recommend getting one with. My 130i didn't have iDrive nor USB input. I made sure I've got it now. I use the navigation almost weekly, it's just easier than my tom-tom iPhone app. It also looks cool and I dare say resale would be easier. As for buying ex-demo, I'd have no problems with that either. These cars are pretty strong, I'm sure a thrashed demo wouldn't last as long as one that's been loved but are you really going to be keeping the car forever? The difference would be seen in many years to come. |
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12-18-2011, 12:14 AM | #82 |
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Yeah, I think I will ditch the requirement for idrive as it rules too many decent cars. I am upgrading for the engine anyway so its not that important in the scheme of things.
But what about convertible - are these that different to the coupe in handling etc. Would a vert be a compromise in power and handling? |
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12-28-2011, 10:42 PM | #83 |
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So, hopefully should be joining the N54 club within the fortnight but just have to seal the deal. Want to offer about 8% less than the asking price but not sure how that will go. Any haggling tips would be greatly appreciated - i.e. what are some good reasons to validate a lower price i.e. length of time listed, other ads etc.?
(that said, I dont want to undermine any of those on here selling their 135s though!). |
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12-28-2011, 11:19 PM | #84 | |
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So I contacted them asking wtf was going on and they said they didn't have the gts-t in the computer and hence it was put down as a GTR. So I had to write this big letter explaining the differences between my car and a GTR and why it was so much cheaper. In the end I did a big comparison in Australian language saying my car was like an SS commodore and a GTR was like a HSV GTS. I got a letter back a few months later stating "Thanks, your car has been added to our system". I can't have been the first gts-t in the state (WA) Point of the story: they do check.
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12-28-2011, 11:31 PM | #85 |
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12-28-2011, 11:35 PM | #86 | |
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__________________
.-=[ Kenny ]=-. 1999 BMW M Coupe 10.775 @ 134.35 mph w/1.600 60' (Best 136.07 mph) 25th August 2004. +2010 X5 35D+
Check out the 1Addicts Drag Racing Standings and Drag Racing 101. |
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12-29-2011, 12:18 AM | #87 |
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It's part of negotiating, it's not something you can easily script online.
State your offer and asses the situation, if the car has been there for a while then your offer may get accepted or you get a counter offer ... and the fun starts. You don't need to think of ways to justify, this only aggravates the situation. Is this private or dealer sale? |
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12-29-2011, 12:56 AM | #88 | |
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On top of that, there are way more cars in vic and qld (i am in sydney) and they seem to be newer builds, lower mileage for same or less than what the sydney listings are asking. Now I dont mind going interstate to save 3-4 grand but would much rather buy locally. I am not talking about offering redbook prices here but just offering a price in line with other listings of similar detail. Have not bought a used car (privately or from dealer) since late 90s so dont know what to expect. I sold my last car through carsales and initially priced it low to sell quickly and if I got an offer (that they could put in my hands right then) I would consider it (ultimately got what I asked though). |
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