Sponsored by The Tire Rack

[Clovef]

So I bought 235/40/18 275/35/18 star specs for Apex ARC8 18/8.5 +45 and 18/9.5 +62 as I was under the impression they would fit and those wheels would allow me to get more rubber under the 135i. I also am having coilovers installed at the same time with the intent of a one inch drop. The shop doing the work said they just test fit them and they did not fit. They think I need 10 - 15 mm spacers. I think that also means I need extended bolts.

So, my questions are. Are any of you guys running this set up lowered and if so what size front and rear spacers did you use/need? What size bolts should I get if I need them and should I just get studs and nuts? Is there anywhere you guys recommend I should get this stuff from? I will be on ohlins coilovers if that makes a difference. Thanks

[Eddy@ApexWheels]

Could you specify exactly what brand/model tire you've picked up in those sizes?

If the shop thinks you need a 10-15mm spacer then it's because the lower spring perch has been set significantly lower than it should be. A huge amount of space is wasted when this happens. The wheel no longer has to clear just the strut tube like on the stock suspension, now the wheel/tire had to clear the entire spring. This is an extremely commonly overlooked issue when piecing together a coilover kit. This coilover clearance issue is most commonly caused by the use of the wrong size main spring length or combined use of a helper/tender spring along with the main spring.

I believe Ohlins provides helper springs. On almost any wide wheel/tire combo for BMW's the helper/tender spring will cause major interference with the tire as it acts as a spacer. It should be removed. They are used for TUV certification in Germany as Germany and some other countries (not the USA) require constant pre-load on the suspension. These helper springs only need 20-30lbs of weight before they are completely flat. They do basically nothing while the car is on the ground and are not supplied in most coilover kits.

If that has already been removed and the problem still persists, then the main spring is too long. If they provided a 7-8" main spring then it needs to be replaced with a 6" main spring. This is also easy to do on a coilover kit.

By removing either the helper/tender spring or installing a shorter main spring, you can raise the lower spring perch higher without effecting your corner balance, ride height, or suspension travel.

Spacers will not fix your problem. It is not possible to add a 15mm spacer behind an 8.5" ET45 wheel on the front of a 1 series. ET30 would be far to aggressive, and even maximum negative camber would not be enough to keep the tire from sticking out of the fender or touching the liners.

-Eddy P

[Clovef]

Thanks for the detailed quick reply. The tires are star specs. I feel pretty confident the front will fit with camber as some people run 245/35 without rubbing. So it sounds like I should not need spacers front or rear or do I just need a smaller spacer?

[Eddy@ApexWheels]

Originally Posted by Clovef

Thanks for the detailed quick reply. The tires are star specs. I feel pretty confident the front will fit with camber as some people run 245/35 without rubbing. So it sounds like I should not need spacers front or rear or do I just need a smaller spacer?

You should not need a spacer at all with that tire. You just need to figure out what element on the suspension needs to be changed in order to raise the lower spring perch higher.

[Clovef]

Well I got my car back and put the wheels on myself today. With the suspension unloaded they would rub horribly but when you drop it down from the jack it looks to clear fairly easy. In the front I thought I was good but when I drove down the block it smelled like burnt rubber coming from the front. I have the camber set at -2 should I dial in more camber? Also how do I go about doing that with vorshlag camber plates. Sorry but I have never done this before. Thanks