Adaptive Headlight Repair Nightmare!!! (my own fault)

[shah269]

are there any videos on how to remove and reinstall the covers?

[3002 tii]

Originally Posted by shah269

are there any videos on how to remove and reinstall the covers?

Doubt it, small hands barely fit in there. Can't see someone getting a camera down there and recording anything visible. It's just one of those rite of passages of becoming a 1-series headlight modding survivor.

[rocketpop]

The problem is there just not enough space to work with. You have to get the tabs on the bottom of the cover into those slots. But its hard to see them, there is not very much room and you can't angle them very much. The good news, it get easier each time you do it. I think only took me 15 minutes instead of the 30 the last time. LOL

PS - you really have to watch that clip, it will come out and fall into the engine bay. I have been very luck its never fell far enough that I couldn't reach it.

[uberschnell]

OP - I installed my FMIC, because I am a DIY type, and didn't secure the inlet pipe well. It ended up rubbing through an AC line which then burst. Cost me $500 to fix, would have only cost me $200 to pay for the install.

I know the feeling

Hope you find some resolution

[Blueherb]

I know allll about these headlights, I'm just now finally sorting my problem out. If there's one thing to learn is do not believe anyone that tells you that you will need to "buy an entire headlight assembly", yes there are multiple pieces inside that could have fried from water damage but it's really as easy as going down the list replacing what needs to replaced..

If I were you id start with the basics. Buy a used ballast and D1S bulb off eBay and see if that works. More than likely you will have a nice puddle of water down there so before installing new ballast run a blow drier on it for a few. Replacing only those two things I restored my drivers side light to full working order and my passenger side light to power on so I had lights again. If you're having adaptive motor issues then you will probably have to replace the adaptive module at the very bottom of the light assembly (it's what the ballast plugs into). For that particular part you will be required to buy an "uncoded" module and take it to the dealership to be coded specifically to your car. In some rare cases you may need to replace the footwell module.

I took the route of buying an entire headlight and let me tell you, save your money. Source only the parts you need. PM if you need any help and good luck!

[fs454]

Originally Posted by Blueherb

I know allll about these headlights, I'm just now finally sorting my problem out. If there's one thing to learn is do not believe anyone that tells you that you will need to "buy an entire headlight assembly", yes there are multiple pieces inside that could have fried from water damage but it's really as easy as going down the list replacing what needs to replaced..

If I were you id start with the basics. Buy a used ballast and D1S bulb off eBay and see if that works. More than likely you will have a nice puddle of water down there so before installing new ballast run a blow drier on it for a few. Replacing only those two things I restored my drivers side light to full working order and my passenger side light to power on so I had lights again. If you're having adaptive motor issues then you will probably have to replace the adaptive module at the very bottom of the light assembly (it's what the ballast plugs into). For that particular part you will be required to buy an "uncoded" module and take it to the dealership to be coded specifically to your car. In some rare cases you may need to replace the footwell module.

I took the route of buying an entire headlight and let me tell you, save your money. Source only the parts you need. PM if you need any help and good luck!

I'm in the same boat right now, and I'm about to buy a new ballast as well as a junked headlight to pull the wiring and adaptive boards from. Had mega bad water damage down there and all the connectors / boards are covered in corrosion.

Blueherb, did you have to recode anything or did you just replace the ballast and light and everything was alright? Seems like the part that requires coding is just the adaptive stuff which I can figure out once I'm not driving around with a light out. My HID bulb still works when connected to the other side's ballast.


And why are ebay ballasts so cheap? They seem to be the same OEM Valeo piece that pelican parts sells for $200 and other legitimate parts places are selling for $400+, but they're $120 and under.

Thanks in advance!

[SabreE82]

Originally Posted by Blueherb

I know allll about these headlights, I'm just now finally sorting my problem out. If there's one thing to learn is do not believe anyone that tells you that you will need to "buy an entire headlight assembly", yes there are multiple pieces inside that could have fried from water damage but it's really as easy as going down the list replacing what needs to replaced..

If I were you id start with the basics. Buy a used ballast and D1S bulb off eBay and see if that works. More than likely you will have a nice puddle of water down there so before installing new ballast run a blow drier on it for a few. Replacing only those two things I restored my drivers side light to full working order and my passenger side light to power on so I had lights again. If you're having adaptive motor issues then you will probably have to replace the adaptive module at the very bottom of the light assembly (it's what the ballast plugs into). For that particular part you will be required to buy an "uncoded" module and take it to the dealership to be coded specifically to your car. In some rare cases you may need to replace the footwell module.

I took the route of buying an entire headlight and let me tell you, save your money. Source only the parts you need. PM if you need any help and good luck!

This.

[MightyMouseTech]

Diagnosing headlights is pretty easy actually, as long as only one side is not working. You have a complete set of good parts on the other side of the car. Keep swapping parts till it starts to work. Move the bad part back to the other side to confirm it is the part that failed. Order the failed part.

[NickyC]

Sorry to hear your about your issues OP, that passenger's side cover is indeed a PITA. When I installed my LED bulbs a couple years back, I tried unsuccessfully for a couple minutes to get the cover back on. I'm lucky I read about it on this forum prior, as knowing myself, I would have just left the cover partially installed and my headlight for sure would have malfunctioned. I'm sure this isn't news to anybody, but I removed that black vacuum pump looking thing that is right behind the headlight. It gave me *just* the extra amount of room I needed and I was able to reinstall it pretty quickly. It was probably a matter of luck more than anything! ;D

[fastlanez]

Thanks folks, I researched the hell out of this, and never once did I think I would run into such an obstacle. Really wish I knew some of you guys were able to reinstall on a vert as I'm sure a drive to wherever you are would have been cheaper than the fix! Not a worry though, can't cry over spilt milk! The only thing to do is spend more where you really wanted to, and make yourself feel better,,, so,,, aFe exhaust and CAI on the way. And believe me, BMW is doing the install at a discounted price for all they took me for. Least I was able to get them down to $2,300 all in. They were at least able to keep the bright white halo's after repairing the issue. I called another independent shop in Connecticut, and he explained it to me as well that no short cut could be made. The light issue is just a nightmare,,, sometime I do miss my Evo... j/k, i still love you Bimmo. Its like bailing a kid out of jail for doing something utterly stupid! You want to leave them there, but you can't! Anyhow I live to drive another day, or night. Pun intended. Thanks for all the comments folks!

[Blueherb]

Originally Posted by fs454

I'm in the same boat right now, and I'm about to buy a new ballast as well as a junked headlight to pull the wiring and adaptive boards from. Had mega bad water damage down there and all the connectors / boards are covered in corrosion.

Blueherb, did you have to recode anything or did you just replace the ballast and light and everything was alright? Seems like the part that requires coding is just the adaptive stuff which I can figure out once I'm not driving around with a light out. My HID bulb still works when connected to the other side's ballast.


And why are ebay ballasts so cheap? They seem to be the same OEM Valeo piece that pelican parts sells for $200 and other legitimate parts places are selling for $400+, but they're $120 and under.

Thanks in advance!

Nope, I didn't have to code anything. It was just plug n play. The lights will work and your error will be gone but you still may have to take it to dealership so they can adjust the light beam.
As for the ballasts they are pretty cheap used, I went with the oem brand, only paid around $70ish each if I recall correctly.

[hlmiii]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

OP... I would go thru your insurance company. Just tell them you have water inside your headlights and they must have a crack from a rock/stone. You can make a comp claim and in most states its a zero deductible and it can not hurt your driving record.

I am so sorry to read this post and, if I understand correctly, hear the underlying attitude.

This would be a lie and a fraudulent claim. You're recommending that the OP ask someone else to pay for his/her actions, under false pretenses. In addition to the global effect on everyone's rates and responses for valid claims, it is dishonest.

Adding the additional clearance about a driving record reinforces the unseemliness.
Especially with the wink and thumb's up.
Really?

Members here and in other forums fill threads with antipathy for dealers and merchants who scam their way into our wallets. I don't see any distinction involved here.

[angler]

Originally Posted by hlmiii

I am so sorry to read this post and, if I understand correctly, hear the underlying attitude.

This would be a lie and a fraudulent claim. You're recommending that the OP ask someone else to pay for his/her actions, under false pretenses. In addition to the global effect on everyone's rates and responses for valid claims, it is dishonest.

Adding the additional clearance about a driving record reinforces the unseemliness.
Especially with the wink and thumb's up.
Really?

Members here and in other forums fill threads with antipathy for dealers and merchants who scam their way into our wallets. I don't see any distinction involved here.

What about all the times the insurance companies screw the policy holder. You spend thousands of dollars a year on insurance, go 10 years without an accident get into one thats not your fault and your rates go up at least 30%.. Screw them!!!!

[hlmiii]

Oh, so this just boils down to, "some parties act bad so that means I can too?"
Nice.

I guess that means that when you miss a car payment then it is okay for the dealership to screw you by not changing your oil.

Hmmmmm .....

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by hlmiii

I am so sorry to read this post and, if I understand correctly, hear the underlying attitude.

This would be a lie and a fraudulent claim. You're recommending that the OP ask someone else to pay for his/her actions, under false pretenses. In addition to the global effect on everyone's rates and responses for valid claims, it is dishonest.

Adding the additional clearance about a driving record reinforces the unseemliness.
Especially with the wink and thumb's up.
Really?

Members here and in other forums fill threads with antipathy for dealers and merchants who scam their way into our wallets. I don't see any distinction involved here.

It is JUST like a cracked windshield(or any other glass part on your car!) comp claim. A rock CAN cause your headlight to have moister inside of it. Most policies cover that. And a comp claim can not go against one's insurance/driving record. Not unless you make a lot of comp claims each year.

Just as a rock COULD damage your AC condenser in front of your radiator. Most people don't think that their insurance might pay for stuff like that. All I am saying is it could be worth your while asking your insurance agent about your coverage and options.


I was not saying one should commit insurance fraud. Its either covered or its not. Go ask your agent/ins company.

Dack

[greensto]

Sometimes a little water damage and adaptive headlight error is just the ballast getting damaged and can be replaced relatively easily. Hope that helps anyone.

[angler]

Originally Posted by hlmiii

Oh, so this just boils down to, "some parties act bad so that means I can too?"
Nice.

I guess that means that when you miss a car payment then it is okay for the dealership to screw you by not changing your oil.

Hmmmmm .....

I don't miss car payments, and if I did the dealer shouldn't change my oil!!!!

[Andrewcoja]

Originally Posted by hlmiii

Oh, so this just boils down to, "some parties act bad so that means I can too?"
Nice.

I guess that means that when you miss a car payment then it is okay for the dealership to screw you by not changing your oil.

Hmmmmm .....

Anyone who misses a car payment on a BMW can't afford to own a BMW.

[vertebra]

Back on topic, just joined the club...subscribed.


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[dcaron9999]

Somewhat related post ...

I have had one adaptive headlight malfunction warning light pop up on my 2011 135i. At the time of the event, I was driving the car hard at dusk (read: lapping). The malfunction light went away after I turned the engine off/on.

Car is still under warranty.

My dealership could not locate any DIAG errors or reproduce the issue, probably due to the fact that my Cobb PTF tune erases and clears the DTC's after any map changes or complete Cobb AP3 software removal from DME.

Any thoughts on the cause? Would vibration or hitting a large bump cause a warning light to pop on just like that?

[Mach1er]

Short answer is yes, a bump can cause your adaptive headlights to malfunction just like you're describing. It happened on my dad's E90 328i. The symptom was cornering hard or hitting a bump threw the error. Turns out his adaptive headlight motor was going bad. He had it replaced and it was good to go. IIRC the motor was sub-$100.

Originally Posted by dcaron9999

Somewhat related post ...

I have had one adaptive headlight malfunction warning light pop up on my 2011 135i. At the time of the event, I was driving the car hard at dusk (read: lapping). The malfunction light went away after I turned the engine off/on.

Car is still under warranty.

My dealership could not locate any DIAG errors or reproduce the issue, probably due to the fact that my Cobb PTF tune erases and clears the DTC's after any map changes or complete Cobb AP3 software removal from DME.

Any thoughts on the cause? Would vibration or hitting a large bump cause a warning light to pop on just like that?

[dcaron9999]

Originally Posted by Mach1er

Short answer is yes, a bump can cause your adaptive headlights to malfunction just like you're describing. It happened on my dad's E90 328i. The symptom was cornering hard or hitting a bump threw the error. Turns out his adaptive headlight motor was going bad. He had it replaced and it was good to go. IIRC the motor was sub-$100.

Thanks for the info. I will keep an eye on this. Only happened once at the track. I might of run over the race curb markers too deeply and unsettled the front height ajuster/sensor on the front control arm. I cant remember exactly now ...