What else to replace with the clutch?

[ImHuntingWabbits]

I figure there's a standard list:

1. Clutch Plate (use #21217598492 from 1M?)
2. Flywheel (use #21217603250 from 1M?)
3. Pilot / Release bearings
4. Slave / Master if old
5. One time use ALU screws (use #23000417164)

Anything else that I should add to the list like special bolts that can only be torqued once (like the caliper bolts)?

Also, does anyone know of a good reference for torque specs of the bolts around the transmission bell housing?

[Dackelone]

Normally you also want to replace the release bearing as well. Also look at the fingers on the arm or lever that hooks up to the release bearing. Get some high temo grease for the arm where it makes contact with the bearing and the other end where the clutch slave contacts it.

[ImHuntingWabbits]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

Normally you also want to replace the release bearing as well. Also look at the fingers on the arm or lever that hooks up to the release bearing. Get some high temo grease for the arm where it makes contact with the bearing and the other end where the clutch slave contacts it.

Duh, of course. Thanks for pointing that one out, I'll make sure it gets greased, and a new bearing seems like a good idea.

Thanks.

[Turbolader]

Slave cylinder (if it's an internal one).

Had one die on me 600 miles away from home. 2 weeks after getting a new clutch. Driving in 1st and shutting off the car at every stoplight was not fun, nor good for the starter. (This wasn't for this car though)

My loss is your gain!

[Dackelone]

Normally once a car gets up there in age.... and you need to replace a slave cylinder...you should also replace the master as well. The reason is the increased pressure will cause the older part (ie slave or master) to fail.

You might also want to repleace the rear engine main seal - IF you up there in miles. On the inside of the trans input shaft seal there is also a seal there. That might need replacing while your in there.

You might also want to replace your trans and diff fluids while you have the car in the air.

On VAG cars you also want to replace the throw out bearing... but I don't think BMW have those.

Q). Are you gonna upgrade the flywheel to a lighter one like say the 1M uses? I think its seven or eight pounds lighter than the 135i unit. IF not a simple flyhweel resurfacing job should surfice. Also check with BMW IF you have to buy new flywheel bolts or pressure plate bolts when renewing the clutch.


Dackel

[ImHuntingWabbits]

Originally Posted by Turbolader

Slave cylinder (if it's an internal one).

Yep, I had mine go out on my miata (spotted the leak when I pulled the trans) so I've considered it, mine is still pretty low in mileage though.

Originally Posted by Dackelone

Q). Are you gonna upgrade the flywheel to a lighter one like say the 1M uses?

If I can yes (I have a 2008 135i), I'll probably use the clutch plate from the 1M as well.

Real OEM lists it as part #21217603250. Which is listed as a part for the 335xi as well, I'll see if I can dig up more information about its weight.

It seems there's also a plethora of one-time-use bolts that need to be changed as well.

[Dackelone]

IF you doing the clutch yourself... do not forget to buy/rent/steal a clutch disc centering pin tool. This tool centers the clutch disc - so everything just slips back on durring reassembly. It is very hard to get by without this $20 tool/pin. The pin/tool has splines on it so as to center the disc on the pressure plate - then when you slide teh trans back on everything should line up.

[Alpina_B3_Lux]

Any update on this?

[ImHuntingWabbits]

Not yet, haven't been driving much so I've held off on changing mine out. I've also got a friend with a 1M on the way, kind of want to try that clutch first hand and see how it feels.