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      09-22-2015, 05:37 PM   #1
Clovef
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Steering clicking or popping

I have a 2011 135i which steering has been clicking or popping at low speads when turning the wheel. It is not 100% consistent but as I turn the wheel at slow speeds it sounds like the steering rack is popping. I only hear it at slow speeds like in a parking lot. I get 3-5 pops turning into a parking space at 90 degrees. Everything else is feeling fine and I have no warning lights. I opened the hood and listened as I friend turned the wheel and it sounds like it is coming from the drivers side by the steering column but I am not sure. The car has been lowered for over a year and while I don't know when the problem started, I do remember listening a lot after the camber plates and coilovers were put on to listen for any problems and never heard anything. Has anyone else had this happen and what needed to be done. I searched some but am not finding much. Thanks
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2011 BMW 135i DCT M Sport, black sapphire metallic,Coral red tint, black line tail lights, back grils, BMW Performance spoiler, Apex ARC8, 235/265 Dunlop ZIIs, Ohlins coilovers w/ Swift springs, M3 front bits, Whiteline rear sub frame bushings, Vorshlag camber plates, Stoptech pads, stud conversion, spacers, bms intake
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      09-23-2015, 12:21 AM   #2
vtl
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Jack up one front wheel (the other on the ground). Grab the wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock and try to rock it. If its loose its probably tie rod ends (you will probably see the joint's slop if its faulty). Try both wheels. Grab 12 and 6 oclock and try and rock it, if loose then might be control arms.

Also give the wheel a spin and make sure its not wheel bearings.

It may also be slop in the steering column u joint although thats rare. I think theres a screw/bolt on the ujoint where you can adjust the tightness.
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      09-23-2015, 12:56 AM   #3
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I would also check to see IF the wheel bolts are tight - it could be something simple like that. Maybe also look at your ball joints and tie rods. I doubt its your rack. Could also be coming from the tops of the strut bearings "hats" since you said the car is lowered. Do you have camber plates? You gotta check everything.
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      09-23-2015, 12:14 PM   #4
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I used to have this also, might still have it but haven't noticed it lately. I changed my front control arms to the TRW M3 kit and I think this made it go away.

When I did still have the noise, I talked to my SA and showed him the sound. He said it was common in BMWs for it to make the sound and even showed me a brand new 3 series that had the same sound. I think it may just be inherent to the suspension geometry design of the car?
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      09-23-2015, 05:18 PM   #5
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Did you install downpipes recently? Try re-tightening the bolts removed from the steering rack when or if you had to move your rack to get access to your stock downpipes.
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      09-23-2015, 05:33 PM   #6
Clovef
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I am about to go jack it up and check things now. It is on ohlin coilovers, vorshlag camber plates, and e92 m3 front anti sway bar, front lower wishbones, and tension rods/front control arms. I also have a 235 tire on a wider wheel upfront with wheel spacers and lug bolt conversion. I am confident it is not rubbing as the popping comes from turning the wheel instead of having the wheel turned. The camber plates looked to be okay and are not moving while I hear the clicking while the car is parked. I will post again if it was just a loose bolt but I am afraid it is the steering.

Another question I had was in regard to aftermarket warranties. My credit union gave me a lower interest rate to get a aftermarket warranty. Normally I don't do those because they are marked up a lot for profit but I got a lower interest rate and was worried about the duel clutch transmission cost. Now i think my car is outside of BMW warranty period as it was a may 2011 purchase date. I don't know how to use the warranty should I need to. Do I go to a BMW dealer and get reimbursed somehow or do I need to go to the dealership the car and aftermarket warranty was purchased at which was Honda? Sorry, I have never used/bought an aftermarket warranty before and don't want to take my car to a Honda dealership.

Last edited by Clovef; 09-23-2015 at 07:11 PM..
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      09-23-2015, 05:41 PM   #7
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Well, on a car with strut suspension, that is usually a sign of seizing upper strut bearings. As you turn the wheel, the spring is jumping on the perch.
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      09-23-2015, 07:09 PM   #8
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Nothing seems to be loose and the wheels have no play when one side is jacked into the air. There is only about 41k miles on the car at this point and about two years and 20k miles on the springs and shocks. The springs are Swift springs with something like 272lbs up front. About three quarters of an inch drop with how they are set now if I remember right.

Can anyone tell me how to check for the seizing upper strut bearings? I think I got thrust bearings or something like that with the swift springs from Harold at HPAutoworks. I thought they would help the spring move as needed but maybe something has gone wrong or I need to do something else. If it is the spring jumping what will I need to do? I know the rear creaks and pops when I jack up the car. I always worried about that a bit but did not know if it was a problem or just how it is after coilovers. I have never done different springs before this car. Thanks.
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      09-23-2015, 10:29 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clovef View Post
Nothing seems to be loose and the wheels have no play when one side is jacked into the air. There is only about 41k miles on the car at this point and about two years and 20k miles on the springs and shocks. The springs are Swift springs with something like 272lbs up front. About three quarters of an inch drop with how they are set now if I remember right.

Can anyone tell me how to check for the seizing upper strut bearings? I think I got thrust bearings or something like that with the swift springs from Harold at HPAutoworks. I thought they would help the spring move as needed but maybe something has gone wrong or I need to do something else. If it is the spring jumping what will I need to do? I know the rear creaks and pops when I jack up the car. I always worried about that a bit but did not know if it was a problem or just how it is after coilovers. I have never done different springs before this car. Thanks.
To test that, you should steer the car when both front wheels up in the air with the engine off + the key in the ignition (to unlock the steering). Keep an eye on the spring while moving the steering from side to side and listen for the noise. Youd see the thing skipping on the spring perch pretty easily.

If you can't reproduce it, it might only happen when the suspension is loaded so you might need to test with the car on the ground as well.
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      01-22-2016, 06:53 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clovef View Post
Nothing seems to be loose and the wheels have no play when one side is jacked into the air. There is only about 41k miles on the car at this point and about two years and 20k miles on the springs and shocks. The springs are Swift springs with something like 272lbs up front. About three quarters of an inch drop with how they are set now if I remember right.

Can anyone tell me how to check for the seizing upper strut bearings? I think I got thrust bearings or something like that with the swift springs from Harold at HPAutoworks. I thought they would help the spring move as needed but maybe something has gone wrong or I need to do something else. If it is the spring jumping what will I need to do? I know the rear creaks and pops when I jack up the car. I always worried about that a bit but did not know if it was a problem or just how it is after coilovers. I have never done different springs before this car. Thanks.
I am having the exact same symptoms which started about 300 miles after installing Vorshlag camber plates on my 1M. If I have someone turn the steering back and forth while I place my fingertips on the camber plates and strut top, I do not feel anything. I also don't hear anything. It is only felt in the steering wheel and goes away when the car is lifted to unload the suspension.

I have verified that everything is tight.

I would love an update on how this turned out for the OP.
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      01-23-2016, 09:24 PM   #11
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Update:
The top nut was over tightened, problem easily solved. Details in post #13 of my thread here:

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1209411
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