Extra stuff to replace when doing shocks/springs?

[Matticus91]

Can anyone think of any extra stuff to replace when doing the shocks and springs? I've set Sunday aside to do my Bilstein B12 install and just want to make sure there's nothing else I should get.

[desertman123]

Saved this in the archive of "BMW shit I'll buy one day." There's a few more bits I imagine but here's the big stuff.

[chadillac2000]

At your age/mileage, I'd just throw on the springs/shocks and call it a day. All of my rubber mounts were in fine shape and I suspect yours are even in better. Just the springs and shocks will be a nice improvement.

[tock172]

As desertman123 said, front strut bearings & mounts, rear shock mounts. Some like to use new hardware as well. Spring pads and other small wear parts are good ideas as well.

Rather than simply replacing the front strut mounts, a set of camber plates is a good idea. Dinan makes a set of those and a nicely designed set of rear shock mounts.

[chris_flies]

After suffering through doing the front wheel bearing, and having to shimmy around the butt-end of the strut, I'd say dive in an do those, unless your car is relatively low mileage, then it probably isn't worth it to you. While your in there, also hose some bolts and exposed bolt-ends with Boeshield T-9 or similar stuff, it'll all get rusty and make the bolts a pain to undo. Use tons of anti-seize on everything possible! You could also install some 1M control arms. Dinan camber plates couldn't hurt either, especially if you're a spirited driver, they just bolt right on top of the strut mount. A beefier rear sway bar makes the car feel much more darty and responsive, I have a 15mm one from ECS. Rear subframe bushings, but those are a pain in the (insert donkey gif here). Lot's of things to do in there, most of which are very worthwhile from a performance perspective. Good luck, careful getting your struts out from the front, you wouldn't want to scratch that beautiful paint. Rears are easy peasy, now I can pull rear shocks out to adjust them and re-install them in about 20 minutes or so. Have fun! Don't be an idiot (me) and snap a bolt, and then an ez-out and then a hardened drill bit...

[Matticus91]

Thanks for the info all! I got all new strut mounts but will check mine out before replacing. The car isn't that old so I'm not sure they need it.

Originally Posted by chris_flies

Don't be an idiot (me) and snap a bolt, and then an ez-out and then a hardened drill bit...

That sounds like a rough day damn

[ianc]

Hope you budgeted more than one day... ;-)

ianc

[chris_flies]

Originally Posted by Matticus91

Thanks for the info all! I got all new strut mounts but will check mine out before replacing. The car isn't that old so I'm not sure they need it.



That sounds like a rough day damn

Mine were worn, the gasket on top of everything was all dried out, and I had to scrape it off of the strut tower on the body side of things before reinstalling everything. After installing all the new parts, the steering was way lighter, and then when I pulled the camber pins (I was an idiot again, and didn't think to do it while everything was out of the car) it got even lighter, and picked up some more feel and directness to it. I snapped the bolt trying to install my rear sway bar (the car didn't have one originally) and did a poor job cleaning the threads. It was so worth it though, I'd really recommend a rear sway bar, the car feels more darty, and more eager to turn-in, but with all of the torque of the N54/55 you probably want a proper LSD before jumping on one, I find myself with traction control interfering heavily when I take a corner over-eagerly and try to power out in second gear. Again, have fun with the install, and hose everything down with some kind of rust preventer (I can recommend Boeshield T9) before sealing it all in, especially as winter is upon us.

Wow, that was a long reply...

[gjm120]

Originally Posted by chris_flies

Mine were worn, the gasket on top of everything was all dried out, and I had to scrape it off of the strut tower on the body side of things before reinstalling everything. After installing all the new parts, the steering was way lighter, and then when I pulled the camber pins (I was an idiot again, and didn't think to do it while everything was out of the car) it got even lighter, and picked up some more feel and directness to it. I snapped the bolt trying to install my rear sway bar (the car didn't have one originally) and did a poor job cleaning the threads. It was so worth it though, I'd really recommend a rear sway bar, the car feels more darty, and more eager to turn-in, but with all of the torque of the N54/55 you probably want a proper LSD before jumping on one, I find myself with traction control interfering heavily when I take a corner over-eagerly and try to power out in second gear. Again, have fun with the install, and hose everything down with some kind of rust preventer (I can recommend Boeshield T9) before sealing it all in, especially as winter is upon us.

Wow, that was a long reply...

How difficult was installing the rear sway bar? Did you have a DIY guide or is it obvious what to do?

I put on sport shocks and springs about a year ago and the rear sway is on my list.

[chris_flies]

Originally Posted by gjm120

How difficult was installing the rear sway bar? Did you have a DIY guide or is it obvious what to do?

I put on sport shocks and springs about a year ago and the rear sway is on my list.

It's fairly obvious, but maybe not as much as I think it is. Here's a mini-DIY:

1- Put wheel chocks in front of the front wheels. Jack up the rear end of the car, by means of the diff casing. Jack it up high enough to put jack stands on the rear jack pads. Lower the car onto the jack stands.

2- Pull off the wheels. Carefully, use a thread tap (same size as end link bolts) to clean the threads on the hub, they will probably be a bit muddied up after a few years.

*From here on, front subframe something refers to the front position of the rear subframe*

3- Jack up the diff casing, only enough to hold the subframe up. Remove the cross bracing underneath the car by the front subframe bolts. The bolts are hidden underneath the little air deflector in front of the wheel well. Use a long extension and a 9/16" socket to reach in and remove the front subframe bolts. Slowly lower the jack, the front subframe crossmember will hit the exhaust, the exhaust hangers will allow a bit of deflection.

4- Now use a thread tap (same size as sway bar bushing clamp bolts) and clean the threaded holes for the bushing clamps. To find them; from front to back, the subframe slopes up towards the half shafts, on this slope, you'll find, about 2 inches from the outside of frame two empty holes. Use the tap on these.

5- Now, put the bushings on the sway bar, at either end of the long straight bit. I don't know about greasing the bushings, but I think it depends on what kind of bushings you're using. Fit the sway bar into the car. You can find pictures on how it fits into all the control arms and stuff on google or RealOEM.

6- Fit everything together and enjoy.



Sorry for the hijack, Matticus.

[ShocknAwe]

Dinan rear shock mounts, M3 guide rods and front control arms, aftermarket toe arm. Get yourself a diff lockdown too. My car always felt a little unsettled with coils until I just went ahead and did everything.

[gjm120]

Originally Posted by chris_flies

It's fairly obvious, but maybe not as much as I think it is. Here's a mini-DIY:

1- Put wheel chocks in front of the front wheels. Jack up the rear end of the car, by means of the diff casing. Jack it up high enough to put jack stands on the rear jack pads. Lower the car onto the jack stands.

2- Pull off the wheels. Carefully, use a thread tap (same size as end link bolts) to clean the threads on the hub, they will probably be a bit muddied up after a few years.

*From here on, front subframe something refers to the front position of the rear subframe*

3- Jack up the diff casing, only enough to hold the subframe up. Remove the cross bracing underneath the car by the front subframe bolts. The bolts are hidden underneath the little air deflector in front of the wheel well. Use a long extension and a 9/16" socket to reach in and remove the front subframe bolts. Slowly lower the jack, the front subframe crossmember will hit the exhaust, the exhaust hangers will allow a bit of deflection.

4- Now use a thread tap (same size as sway bar bushing clamp bolts) and clean the threaded holes for the bushing clamps. To find them; from front to back, the subframe slopes up towards the half shafts, on this slope, you'll find, about 2 inches from the outside of frame two empty holes. Use the tap on these.

5- Now, put the bushings on the sway bar, at either end of the long straight bit. I don't know about greasing the bushings, but I think it depends on what kind of bushings you're using. Fit the sway bar into the car. You can find pictures on how it fits into all the control arms and stuff on google or RealOEM.

6- Fit everything together and enjoy.



Sorry for the hijack, Matticus.

One more question - is this a opportune time to do subframe bushings (thinking either inserts or 2 pc full bushes)?

Really really sorry for the hijack now!

[HyeWarrior]

Originally Posted by gjm120

One more question - is this a opportune time to do subframe bushings (thinking either inserts or 2 pc full bushes)?

Really really sorry for the hijack now!

I’ve read the subframe inserts are a PITA, but the proper way to address the issue. Inserts I’ve read are great bang for the buck, but basically a temporary fix

[chris_flies]

Originally Posted by gjm120

One more question - is this a opportune time to do subframe bushings (thinking either inserts or 2 pc full bushes)?

Really really sorry for the hijack now!

It is definitely an opportune time. There are a few DIY's on this forum and the E90 forums, we have the same suspension components as them. Inserts are extremely easy, and are very inexpensive, and require only basic tools (an impact gun REALLY helps). Doing the bushings requires some more specialty tools, or just some mechanical ingenuity and some simple bits and pieces from Lowe's along with some high-strength bearing/bushing press pieces. A strong threaded rod, and a strong nut, combined with washers and the right size bearing piece, and they'll pop right out. I used hole saws for the rear ones (I replaced some very squishy OE ones with new ones + Whiteline inserts), and haven't done the front ones, due to the need to drop the exhaust to gain access. I've heard that you can use a water pump socket for those (found at advance auto parts), which means you still don't need no stinkin' fancy-pants tools for this. I'll be doing those (and replacing with proper M3 bushings) when I drop the exhaust and heat shield to rebuild my whole shifter assembly with Teflon bushings, etc. When you're done, I'd clean your subframe, and spray/brush it with some thick rust-oleum paint, because it will begin to rust eventually along the welds.

[WDE82]

Originally Posted by chris_flies

It is definitely an opportune time. There are a few DIY's on this forum and the E90 forums, we have the same suspension components as them. Inserts are extremely easy, and are very inexpensive, and require only basic tools (an impact gun REALLY helps). Doing the bushings requires some more specialty tools, or just some mechanical ingenuity and some simple bits and pieces from Lowe's along with some high-strength bearing/bushing press pieces. A strong threaded rod, and a strong nut, combined with washers and the right size bearing piece, and they'll pop right out. I used hole saws for the rear ones (I replaced some very squishy OE ones with new ones + Whiteline inserts), and haven't done the front ones, due to the need to drop the exhaust to gain access. I've heard that you can use a water pump socket for those (found at advance auto parts), which means you still don't need no stinkin' fancy-pants tools for this. I'll be doing those (and replacing with proper M3 bushings) when I drop the exhaust and heat shield to rebuild my whole shifter assembly with Teflon bushings, etc. When you're done, I'd clean your subframe, and spray/brush it with some thick rust-oleum paint, because it will begin to rust eventually along the welds.

Having done subframe bushings on an E46 that are quite similar, I would buy the tool set and then sell it on the forums when done. I spent plenty on McMaster for various parts, had to be meticulous in sizing things, and in the end it was still fairly janky, though it worked out. The tools are what, $300? And for that you know the job will go smoothly and you can easily resell a clean set for $200+.

[chris_flies]

Originally Posted by WDE82

Having done subframe bushings on an E46 that are quite similar, I would buy the tool set and then sell it on the forums when done. I spent plenty on McMaster for various parts, had to be meticulous in sizing things, and in the end it was still fairly janky, though it worked out. The tools are what, $300? And for that you know the job will go smoothly and you can easily resell a clean set for $200+.

You have a point. My dad had the tools from doing control arm bushings on his E39 540i, and various joints and bushings on my mom's previous '04 F-150 5.4L, but the nice threaded rod that came with it was too short for the bushings on my car, so we just got a threaded rod, a few redundant nuts, and pulled the suckers out fairly easily, without an impact gun (impressive, I know ). It wasn't too janky, just took some patience and some more thought than normal.

[PA135i]

Hmmm, yeah. I ran over a rut on the highway and my rear shock mount broke.
$2600 later I'm good again. This car is going to kill me.
They replaced both rear shocks and mounts and said my tie rods were badly rusted.. and needed alignment after all that.
Should I have been preemptive and replaced all the items listed above...
I have developed a love hate relationship with my 135i..

[Matticus91]

Originally Posted by PA135i

Hmmm, yeah. I ran over a rut on the highway and my rear shock mount broke.
$2600 later I'm good again. This car is going to kill me.
They replaced both rear shocks and mounts and said my tie rods were badly rusted.. and needed alignment after all that.
Should I have been preemptive and replaced all the items listed above...
I have developed a love hate relationship with my 135i..

The shock mount that just holds the shock or the actual body panel? $2,600 is absolutely insane if that was just this piece.

Rear shocks are a quick job.

[WDE82]

Yeah what he got reamed. And tierods are <$200 for OEM. I did my left one in about 45 minutes and that even included cutting it in half so I could remove it more easily.

[HyeWarrior]

I literally just ordered a set of Meyle HD tie rods for my car for I think $70 shipped for the pair. OEM would’ve been I think $130 shipped

[Matticus91]

Originally Posted by WDE82

Yeah what he got reamed. And tierods are <$200 for OEM. I did my left one in about 45 minutes and that even included cutting it in half so I could remove it more easily.

Originally Posted by HyeWarrior

I literally just ordered a set of Meyle HD tie rods for my car for I think $70 shipped for the pair. OEM would’ve been I think $130 shipped

I rarely buy OEM for this reason. Even upgrades are typically much less than OEM prices.

[gjm120]

Originally Posted by chris_flies

It's fairly obvious, but maybe not as much as I think it is. Here's a mini-DIY:

1- Put wheel chocks in front of the front wheels. Jack up the rear end of the car, by means of the diff casing. Jack it up high enough to put jack stands on the rear jack pads. Lower the car onto the jack stands.

2- Pull off the wheels. Carefully, use a thread tap (same size as end link bolts) to clean the threads on the hub, they will probably be a bit muddied up after a few years.

*From here on, front subframe something refers to the front position of the rear subframe*

3- Jack up the diff casing, only enough to hold the subframe up. Remove the cross bracing underneath the car by the front subframe bolts. The bolts are hidden underneath the little air deflector in front of the wheel well. Use a long extension and a 9/16" socket to reach in and remove the front subframe bolts. Slowly lower the jack, the front subframe crossmember will hit the exhaust, the exhaust hangers will allow a bit of deflection.

4- Now use a thread tap (same size as sway bar bushing clamp bolts) and clean the threaded holes for the bushing clamps. To find them; from front to back, the subframe slopes up towards the half shafts, on this slope, you'll find, about 2 inches from the outside of frame two empty holes. Use the tap on these.

5- Now, put the bushings on the sway bar, at either end of the long straight bit. I don't know about greasing the bushings, but I think it depends on what kind of bushings you're using. Fit the sway bar into the car. You can find pictures on how it fits into all the control arms and stuff on google or RealOEM.

6- Fit everything together and enjoy.



Sorry for the hijack, Matticus.

How in the hell do you finesse the bar into place? I dropped the subframe about 2-3 inches but can get the bar all the way thru. Which side to start from? Any tricks or tips would really be appreciated?