check engine light with tune and maddad midpipe?

[funcar62]

hi guys

An engine warning message came on with an instruction to "reduce speed/power" while doing some spirited driving. after i stopped and restarted, the warning disappeared. I had just installed a maddad midpipe a few days ago and i was running an evolve stage 1 tune. do you think its connected?

[Pig Farmer]

Do you have the ability to read your codes? Without the codes, my guess is that you developed a boost leak (probably unrelated to the mid pipes). I would check the charge pipe connections (to the throttle body and diverter valves) and the FMIC connections.

[ozinaldo]

Originally Posted by funcar62

hi guys

An engine warning message came on with an instruction to "reduce speed/power" while doing some spirited driving. after i stopped and restarted, the warning disappeared. I had just installed a maddad midpipe a few days ago and i was running an evolve stage 1 tune. do you think its connected?

You won't have a check engine light just because of a mid pipe swap, none would cause that since there are no sensors there. On the other hand, it could be the Evolve tune but till now I only heard that their software alone wouldn't throw codes. My guess is your car went into notorious "limp mode" simply because of your new set up with higher boost levels because maybe you don't have enough supporting cooling mods like a FMIC, you don't mention it in your post. Where you live it can get very hot and humid, this together with a tune may lead to DME to trigger protect engine mode time to time, which can be the reason for the warning sign you have seen.

These are merely some ideas and you should better contact Evolve first and in case the same sign appears again you better take an appointment with a good tech, dealer or not, since the problem can be something else too.

EDIT: I agree with Pig Farmer, forgot to say that it can be the charge pipe as well. Should be easier to see, check connections or a possible crack.

[funcar62]

thanks guys. i forgot to mention that after i turned off the car and then re-started, the warning message disappeared and i cant call it up anymore. from idrive, the check warning reads 'all ok'. If i brought it to the workshop, would they be able to call up the error code(s)?

yes i only have a stage 1 tune, with no other mods. i have had this tune on for a quite a while though without any issues.... could it be the midpipe wasnt fitted correctly? i cant imagine this to be the case thought as its relatively straightforward.

ill probably monitor and if it happens again ill have it all checked out... still have a few months before the warranty expires.

[funcar62]

Originally Posted by Pig Farmer

Do you have the ability to read your codes? Without the codes, my guess is that you developed a boost leak (probably unrelated to the mid pipes). I would check the charge pipe connections (to the throttle body and diverter valves) and the FMIC connections.

Pig Farmer, yup it might be a boost leak. i read the codes.. it was 30FF DME: Turbocharger; boost pressure too low... will continue to monitor.

[Pig Farmer]

That's the code I was expecting. If the engine sounds/performs normal while running at or under the OEM boost, followed by the sound air escaping when the boost builds, it's probably just a loose connection. If you hear a throaty sound under load coming from the engine bay and a significant decrease in performance, you probably cracked your charge pipe. If the exhaust note has changed, I would start by checking the vacuum line running to the vacuum canisters, boost actuators and waste gates. Start by letting the car run for a minute or two, shut her down, wait another minute or two, then open up the vacuum line running to the brake booster (right in front of the OEM air filter). If you don't hear the vacuum release, one of your vacuum lines has a leak which could prevent the waste gates from closing resulting in the low boost and the 30FF code. Good luck and keep us posted.

[funcar62]

hi Pig Farmer and ozinaldo, just to keep you guys updated. YOu guys were right. cracked charge pipe was the culprit! scheduled to be replaced under warranty... now im wondering if its better to buy an upgraded part as well incase it happens again...

[ozinaldo]

Originally Posted by funcar62

hi Pig Farmer and ozinaldo, just to keep you guys updated. YOu guys were right. cracked charge pipe was the culprit! scheduled to be replaced under warranty... now im wondering if its better to buy an upgraded part as well incase it happens again...

Buy an aftermarket one (I have ER) and either install it now and remove it at the time of any significant service visit until the warranty expires or wait till the warranty expires and do it afterwards. I didn't wait until the warranty expires and am glad so far because the ER unit also makes the engine/throttle more responsive, helps diminishing lag imo. That alone deserves this swap. A side note: pay attention to installation of aftermarket units though, since quite easy to install it less than perfectly and continue having similar problems (especially with ER which is otherwise a quality piece, I advice someone really good and reliable in that kind of job makes it for you, a bit of a PITA).

[Jay_///Mowner]

Knock sensors have also been an issue with N54T motors