What mod next:RBs or LSD?!

Zombie1 · 06-07-2014, 03:30 PM

What's up guys planning to do another big upgrade to my car down the road was looking for your guys opinions on this. also if you pick RBs would you upgrade the thrust on them that RB offers? As for the diff prob go through VAC and buy a whole unit.

darkrom · 06-07-2014, 04:55 PM

LSD. Put the power you have to the ground. I want both. The turbos are tempting you'll think "ohhh so much power for the $3k or so" and it is, but then what? You have a tune now, you know how hard it is to keep the power to the ground. Turn off all traction control and rip it from a roll. Can you keep the car straight?

I can't even with PSS and just a JB4 and an intake on map 5 ... as much as I want the RB for power, I think the LSD should come first. Who cares about "making big numbers" if you are slower than a stock 135 because you have 500 HP and can't get the car to stop twisting and burnout out etc.

Both awesome mods, but the LSD will make the better car out of the 2. The RBs will make you better on paper.

LSD first, then drop those RBs in if and when you can. I was out in an E92 M3 last night and let me tell you it handles SO much better with the LSD (and other stuff) that I'd rather handle like that than have 500 hp and be a mess on the road.

Zombie1 · 06-07-2014, 05:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by darkrom

LSD. Put the power you have to the ground. I want both. The turbos are tempting you'll think "ohhh so much power for the $3k or so" and it is, but then what? You have a tune now, you know how hard it is to keep the power to the ground. Turn off all traction control and rip it from a roll. Can you keep the car straight?

I can't even with PSS and just a JB4 and an intake on map 5 ... as much as I want the RB for power, I think the LSD should come first. Who cares about "making big numbers" if you are slower than a stock 135 because you have 500 HP and can't get the car to stop twisting and burnout out etc.

Both awesome mods, but the LSD will make the better car out of the 2. The RBs will make you better on paper.

LSD first, then drop those RBs in if and when you can. I was out in an E92 M3 last night and let me tell you it handles SO much better with the LSD (and other stuff) that I'd rather handle like that than have 500 hp and be a mess on the road.

you make alot of valid points thanks

135Pats · 06-07-2014, 08:01 PM

Limited slip and save up for a single or big twin conversion.

IMO the value proposition for STG2 type offerings is no good.

Or at least that's my plan...FWIW

ilikebmxbikes · 06-07-2014, 09:50 PM

LSD first. Stock turbos or upgraded it's a worthy mod if you plan on using your power.

NickyC · 06-07-2014, 11:07 PM

My vote is for the LSD. Car is already fast enough FBO, put that power down better.

.. · 06-08-2014, 06:14 AM

I have been contemplating this as well but realistically, LSD is the better choice!

llowlife · 06-08-2014, 06:00 PM

RB's w/o an LSD is pointless

one30five · 06-14-2014, 08:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by darkrom

LSD. Put the power you have to the ground. I want both. The turbos are tempting you'll think "ohhh so much power for the $3k or so" and it is, but then what? You have a tune now, you know how hard it is to keep the power to the ground. Turn off all traction control and rip it from a roll. Can you keep the car straight?

I can't even with PSS and just a JB4 and an intake on map 5 ... as much as I want the RB for power, I think the LSD should come first. Who cares about "making big numbers" if you are slower than a stock 135 because you have 500 HP and can't get the car to stop twisting and burnout out etc.

Both awesome mods, but the LSD will make the better car out of the 2. The RBs will make you better on paper.

LSD first, then drop those RBs in if and when you can. I was out in an E92 M3 last night and let me tell you it handles SO much better with the LSD (and other stuff) that I'd rather handle like that than have 500 hp and be a mess on the road.

+1 these cars could benefit from an LSD from the factory. Never mind the 33% increase in power from FBO, then 60-75% power increase (over stock) from turbos.

I didn't see OP sig (on my phone) but bigger wheels, great tires, and brake rotor and pad upgrade should come before the turbos too IMHO

Zombie1 · 10-30-2014, 02:48 PM

Just ordered An M Factory LSD

Cant wait to install this with my Lock down kit

. Can anyone tell me what i'll need for the install?

135Pats · 10-30-2014, 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zombie1

Just ordered An M Factory LSD

Cant wait to install this with my Lock down kit

. Can anyone tell me what i'll need for the install?

Did you buy the diff - or a completed final drive?

That's awesome though

Zombie1 · 10-30-2014, 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 135Pats

Did you buy the diff - or a completed final drive?

That's awesome though

Ordered a whole Pumpkin just for ease of install, hope to get it in before winter comes(back ordered) so I could break it in before it gets hot out.

135Pats · 10-30-2014, 03:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zombie1

Ordered a whole Pumpkin just for ease of install, hope to get it in before winter comes(back ordered) so I could break it in before it gets hot out.

Smart. Should be easy work, think all you need are new axle seals and fluid but dont' quote me on that.

And if it's a helical unit, there's nothing to break in. Clutch-driven diffs are a different story.

Zombie1 · 10-30-2014, 03:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 135Pats

Smart. Should be easy work, think all you need are new axle seals and fluid but dont' quote me on that.

And if it's a helical unit, there's nothing to break in. Clutch-driven diffs are a different story.

DUUR should have realized that. What fluid redline?

135Pats · 10-30-2014, 03:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zombie1

DUUR should have realized that. What fluid redline?

I run Liqui Moly Diff fluid, granted I still have a lame open-diff but for whatever it's worth, i've never had an issue there.

Motul 5W40 motor oil
Motul brake fluid
Liqui Moly diff fluid
Redline D4 ATF
Pentosin (OE) PS fluid

Fluids on fluids

Zombie1 · 10-30-2014, 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 135Pats

I run Liqui Moly Diff fluid, granted I still have a lame open-diff but for whatever it's worth, i've never had an issue there.

Motul 5W40 motor oil
Motul brake fluid
Liqui Moly diff fluid
Redline D4 ATF
Pentosin (OE) PS fluid

Fluids on fluids

Eyeman · 10-30-2014, 07:53 PM

Nice choice. My Quaife whines most of the time now. Easier to do a whole pumpkin than get shimmed right sometimes. I might even get mine reshimmed when I finally get around to the subframe bushings.

Icewall · 10-31-2014, 07:34 AM

You need a big wrench to remove the driveshaft and some big sockets for the 3 bolts.

Dont do what i did! Get the car as high as possible or use a lift. That driveshaft nut is crazy hard to get off if you are laying under the car.

Btw that driveshaft nut gets harder as you turn it. There is a locktite type of paste or glue and its towards the end of the threads so its gets harder the further you go.

Im nuts and stubborn. Installed mine as soon as it arrived and used nothing but a jack and jack stands. It wasnt fun doing it that way, i would pay to have made the job easier.

Zombie1 · 10-31-2014, 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Icewall

You need a big wrench to remove the driveshaft and some big sockets for the 3 bolts.

Dont do what i did! Get the car as high as possible or use a lift. That driveshaft nut is crazy hard to get off if you are laying under the car.

Btw that driveshaft nut gets harder as you turn it. There is a locktite type of paste or glue and its towards the end of the threads so its gets harder the further you go.

Im nuts and stubborn. Installed mine as soon as it arrived and used nothing but a jack and jack stands. It wasnt fun doing it that way, i would pay to have made the job easier.

buddy has a lift so thats a big plus. what gear oil do you use i figure i can run this?
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E82-135...train/ES10752/

ShocknAwe · 10-31-2014, 11:23 AM

This is a mod I would love to help someone tackle first before I get around to doing mine. Looking forward to your impressions of the DIY install.

devinfox · 10-31-2014, 11:25 AM

What is the list of parts you need for the M diff upgrade? I am very interested in doing this, however I read that the welded ring gear makes this a very complicated job? Perhaps I am confusing two different things?

This is appealing to me as I want to stick with OEM parts if possible

Icewall · 10-31-2014, 12:28 PM

Thats what i used (redline). Takes about 1.5 of them if i remember correctly.

I bought the full pumpkin so i dont know how to do the insides. For the full pumpkin you just need a 50 or 52mm wrench i forget which. I used the ar designs one and it seemed a couple mm big but worked. Then you just need various sockets. I used 2 ratchets i think. I think one bolt was pretty large like 20+ mm

The rest would be best served by lift and trans jack but honestly its not THAT heavy. Im sure 2 people could lift it in and start the bolts by hand but of course thats not the safe way. Lol i did it with me and a jack and im just 140 massive pounds

06-07-2014, 03:30 PM	#1
Zombie1 Colonel 172 Rep 2,347 Posts Drives: BMW 135i 2010 Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Island long iTrader: (6)	What mod next:RBs or LSD?! What's up guys planning to do another big upgrade to my car down the road was looking for your guys opinions on this. also if you pick RBs would you upgrade the thrust on them that RB offers? As for the diff prob go through VAC and buy a whole unit. __________________ Mods:-Berkexhaust -alpinaB3flash -CobbAP -Cobb FMIC -ER charge pipe tialQ bov -M3 front sway bar -M3 subframe bushings -M3 front upper and lower control arms -M3 guide rods -M3 rear upper control arms -Mfactory LSD -defiv lockdown kit -TC Kline SA coilovers /camber plates- HP rear toe arms
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06-07-2014, 04:55 PM	#2
darkrom Colonel 188 Rep 2,225 Posts Drives: 135i Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Rhode Island iTrader: (5)	LSD. Put the power you have to the ground. I want both. The turbos are tempting you'll think "ohhh so much power for the $3k or so" and it is, but then what? You have a tune now, you know how hard it is to keep the power to the ground. Turn off all traction control and rip it from a roll. Can you keep the car straight? I can't even with PSS and just a JB4 and an intake on map 5 ... as much as I want the RB for power, I think the LSD should come first. Who cares about "making big numbers" if you are slower than a stock 135 because you have 500 HP and can't get the car to stop twisting and burnout out etc. Both awesome mods, but the LSD will make the better car out of the 2. The RBs will make you better on paper. LSD first, then drop those RBs in if and when you can. I was out in an E92 M3 last night and let me tell you it handles SO much better with the LSD (and other stuff) that I'd rather handle like that than have 500 hp and be a mess on the road.
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06-07-2014, 08:01 PM	#4
135Pats Major General 456 Rep 6,478 Posts Drives: A few BMWs Join Date: May 2012 Location: Maryland iTrader: (3)	Limited slip and save up for a single or big twin conversion. IMO the value proposition for STG2 type offerings is no good. Or at least that's my plan...FWIW __________________ E88 N54 Alpinweiss/Coral Red/Motiv HTA 3586r Tial .82AR/Other stuff...652WHP F30 N55 XDrive EBII
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06-07-2014, 09:50 PM	#5
ilikebmxbikes Banned 1518 Rep 4,744 Posts Drives: S65 1M Clone & E92 M3 4.6L Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: San Francisco iTrader: (42) Garage List '08/13 1M Clone 4.0L [10.00] '11 e92 M3 4.6L [10.00]	LSD first. Stock turbos or upgraded it's a worthy mod if you plan on using your power.
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06-07-2014, 11:07 PM	#6
NickyC Lieutenant General 17485 Rep 10,663 Posts Drives: M4 CS. Former G82, x2 F82, F80 Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Jacked out of my mind iTrader: (23)	My vote is for the LSD. Car is already fast enough FBO, put that power down better.
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06-08-2014, 06:14 AM	#7
.. Lieutenant 62 Rep 581 Posts Drives: 135i Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Somewhere iTrader: (0)	I have been contemplating this as well but realistically, LSD is the better choice!
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06-08-2014, 06:00 PM	#8
llowlife Private First Class 6 Rep 109 Posts Drives: 09' 135i Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Mn iTrader: (0)	RB's w/o an LSD is pointless __________________ 09 135i Cobb e30 tune, VRSF DP's, 7"intercooler, Chargepipe w/ Tial BOV, RB PVC, Wavetrac LSD, KN air filter, More suspension upgrades than I can remember. Alpina tranny flash. I am putting the mods here in case I DO forget. Coming soon to a 135i near you, a one off exhaust and a one off oil cooler.
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10-30-2014, 02:48 PM	#10
Zombie1 Colonel 172 Rep 2,347 Posts Drives: BMW 135i 2010 Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Island long iTrader: (6)	Just ordered An M Factory LSD Cant wait to install this with my Lock down kit . Can anyone tell me what i'll need for the install? __________________ Mods:-Berkexhaust -alpinaB3flash -CobbAP -Cobb FMIC -ER charge pipe tialQ bov -M3 front sway bar -M3 subframe bushings -M3 front upper and lower control arms -M3 guide rods -M3 rear upper control arms -Mfactory LSD -defiv lockdown kit -TC Kline SA coilovers /camber plates- HP rear toe arms
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10-30-2014, 07:53 PM	#17
Eyeman Colonel 121 Rep 2,037 Posts Drives: 2008 135 blk, blk, step Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Atlanta, GA iTrader: (0) Garage List 1994 Porsche 968 Cab [0.00] 2017 AMG GTS [0.00] 1994 Porsche 968 Coupe [0.00] 1977 Mercedes 450SE ... [0.00] 2008 135 [8.00]	Nice choice. My Quaife whines most of the time now. Easier to do a whole pumpkin than get shimmed right sometimes. I might even get mine reshimmed when I finally get around to the subframe bushings. __________________ Injen, RR OCC, MadDad Whisper, donut spare, 19x8.5et43fr 19x9.5et45r Volk LE37's, rear fenders rolled/pulled, PSS4S 225/35fr 255/30r, KW V1's, AR coated catless dps, Cross strutbar, CF grills and license plate holder, iCarbon diffuser, ETS black anodized FMIC, M3 control arms, Quaife, ER chargepipe, ForgeDV's, Topspeed Custom Tune, V3sims, Braille, Andrey_GTA rear hub mod, Ebay Mstyle front bumper and performance style side skirts.
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10-31-2014, 07:34 AM	#18
Icewall Private 1 Rep 90 Posts Drives: black 135i Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Clark, nj iTrader: (0)	You need a big wrench to remove the driveshaft and some big sockets for the 3 bolts. Dont do what i did! Get the car as high as possible or use a lift. That driveshaft nut is crazy hard to get off if you are laying under the car. Btw that driveshaft nut gets harder as you turn it. There is a locktite type of paste or glue and its towards the end of the threads so its gets harder the further you go. Im nuts and stubborn. Installed mine as soon as it arrived and used nothing but a jack and jack stands. It wasnt fun doing it that way, i would pay to have made the job easier.
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10-31-2014, 11:23 AM	#20
ShocknAwe 1Addict 3234 Rep 7,894 Posts Drives: E82 Mutt, M57 Truck Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Charleston iTrader: (22)	This is a mod I would love to help someone tackle first before I get around to doing mine. Looking forward to your impressions of the DIY install. __________________ 2010 135i 6MT Jet Black N54/3 FE82 Mutt \| BUILD THREAD \| GARAGE SALE
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10-31-2014, 11:25 AM	#21
devinfox New Member 1 Rep 5 Posts Drives: 2012 135i Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Atlanta iTrader: (0)	What is the list of parts you need for the M diff upgrade? I am very interested in doing this, however I read that the welded ring gear makes this a very complicated job? Perhaps I am confusing two different things? This is appealing to me as I want to stick with OEM parts if possible
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10-31-2014, 12:28 PM	#22
Icewall Private 1 Rep 90 Posts Drives: black 135i Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Clark, nj iTrader: (0)	Thats what i used (redline). Takes about 1.5 of them if i remember correctly. I bought the full pumpkin so i dont know how to do the insides. For the full pumpkin you just need a 50 or 52mm wrench i forget which. I used the ar designs one and it seemed a couple mm big but worked. Then you just need various sockets. I used 2 ratchets i think. I think one bolt was pretty large like 20+ mm The rest would be best served by lift and trans jack but honestly its not THAT heavy. Im sure 2 people could lift it in and start the bolts by hand but of course thats not the safe way. Lol i did it with me and a jack and im just 140 massive pounds
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