BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

Post Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      05-22-2021, 04:35 AM   #1
DeclanN55
New Member
3
Rep
17
Posts

Drives: E82 135i, N55
Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Manchester

iTrader: (0)

135i N55 Valvetronic (Help)

So I recently had my valve tronic fixed after it was throwing out the code “002E0F Valvetronic System Disabled to frequent Verstell Fault”

I took it to my local BMW Specialist, after having the car for a few days they called me and told me they have managed to free the Motor up and it has began to move again little bit of play in the eccentric shaft but it’s working, after everything was working and they did there tests they said the motor was fine and would continue to work, with the money I saved I thought I best get a service l, New plugs new oil filter new air filter new oil,

After picking the car up I noticed straight away better idling, not as much of a delay when pressing the accelerator and the engine felt free flowing compared to before,

Last night I noticed my car had a bit of a rough idle and felt as if it was holding back again so I decided to plug my code reader in and now it’s giving me the code “002DCF Valvetronic System not detected any movement” was very frustrated as it’s just cost me £620 last week all in, I turned my ignition or took the key out gave it a minute put the key back in scanned for codes again same 002DCF code returned so I’ve cleared all of the codes since clearing the codes the car seems to be okay again it has been a day and I have pushed the car way up the Rev range multiple times to try re triggering the code but still nothing and seems to be running fine again I will monitor it over the next week or two to see if the code re appears does anyone have any ideas as to what it could be is my motor screwed or is it something else? I’ve read it can be a DME which I’m hoping not as it’s not cheap to fix I’ve only had the car just over a month paid £13,000 and it’s give me nothing but headache so far I don’t want to part with it but I can’t afford for it to keep throwing these big bills at me

Already replaced two ABS Sensors
And I have replaced the battery for a GEL battery which has been coded to the car any help would be massively appreciated.
Attached Images
  
Appreciate 0
      05-24-2021, 11:37 AM   #2
dtla1
Colonel
dtla1's Avatar
828
Rep
2,232
Posts

Drives: 2011 135i, Space Grey
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Silicon Valley

iTrader: (2)

Is the Valvetronic code the only code you have?
Appreciate 1
      06-02-2021, 04:34 AM   #3
DeclanN55
New Member
3
Rep
17
Posts

Drives: E82 135i, N55
Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Manchester

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by dtla1 View Post
Is the Valvetronic code the only code you have?
Yeah it's the only code
Appreciate 0
      06-02-2021, 08:23 AM   #4
tracer bullet
Brigadier General
tracer bullet's Avatar
United_States
2419
Rep
3,550
Posts

Drives: '11 135i , '15 X3 35i
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Saint Paul, MN

iTrader: (1)

I think I'd clear the code and then drive some more and pay specific attention to how it is running, then look for the code again.

My experience with this (sadly on 2 N55's now) is that there'll be a rattling noise from the motor, which is under the engine cover and slightly on the left side, at various times - when you open the driver door in the morning, and maybe after you shut the car off at times. I didn't notice an idle issue specifically but did notice it bucked / kicked a bit almost like a transmission problem when decelerating. And once in a while it'd stall and die at a stop light, but thankfully fire right back up.

These kinds of things don't really fix themselves. Be ready for a major repair. I'm currently having an X3 fixed for this, I dropped it off yesterday. Between the X3 being bought at that dealership (though long out of warranty) and it being my 2nd car needing this repair, I was given a deal of a $3,000 cap on the repair cost. It was going to be more like $4,500 otherwise. I looked at buying the parts - eccentric shaft, bearings, the actual motor, valve cover gaskets, and so on and was probably going to be paying $2,000 just in parts alone. For the additional $1,000 I'm going to let them do the work. I'm pretty handy and have a good tool set but not quite what I need for this not to mention not having the software, etc. afterwards for the routine that is supposed to be run on it.

Hope you have better luck, but don't count on it. If you've really just bought the car a month ago you might consider returning it and getting the money back? It's a pretty major repair for something that you just purchased. There may not be anything you can legally do but perhaps some courteous complaining will help. It's worth a try. I think it saved me about $1,500.
Appreciate 0
Post Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:08 PM.




1addicts
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST