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08-23-2017, 12:04 AM | #1 |
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Stage 1 to 5+ Power Upgrades Guide.
I get asked a lot about what works on our cars and what doesn't.
These goals are based on dyno dynamics figures, these figure are approximately 15% lower than US figures It varies from whom you ask but here are my views from experience on 98 ron fuel and on e85. Stage 1 - up to 260rwk Tune either MHD or JB4 Charge pipe BMS and RB Catch Cans Stage 2 - up to 285rwk Tune either MHD or MHD and JB4 Stacked FMIC Down Pipes FMIC Charge pipe BMS and RB Catch Cans Stage 3 - up to 298rwk Tune either MHD Custom or MHD Custom BEF and JB4 Stacked FMIC Down Pipes FMIC Inlet pipes Stage 2 LPFP Charge pipe and Dv's or BOV BMS and RB Catch Cans Stage 4 - up to 360rwk Tune either MHD Custom or MHD Custom BEF and JB4 Stacked XHP auto software upgrade or if manual 550i clutch FMIC the biggest you can, like JD75 Monster IC or VRSF 7.5 inch Down Pipes Inlet Pipes Stage 3 LPFP Fuel Line upgrade HPFP derestriction Stage 2 Turbos (your choice here) BMS and RB Catch Cans You can get better results with e85 if you want to mix blends on all previous stages but I find them all a pain in the butt Your limited by the hpfp now and you need e85 to take you further, serious fuelling upgrades need to be done Stage 5+ 360rwk and beyond (How big is your wallet) FMIC JD75 Monster IC Manifold upgrade Inlets pipes Outlet Pipes Up Pipe Down Pipes Inlet filter system. Port injection or Single/Double Barrel Shotgun Di System or combination (take your pick as they all have their flaws) Stage 3+ LPFP upgrade Fuel Line upgrade inc HPFP derestriction and an inline 10 micron stainless or paper filter. Stage 2/3 Twin Turbos or Big Single BMS and RB Catch Cans Precision Raceworks coil packs or equivalents if running 23psi + Tune either MHD Custom or MHD Custom BEF and JB4 Stacked plus a 2.5 bar or 4 bar sensor upgrade and controllers to handle the PI and Double barrel shotgun kits. XHP auto software upgrade (gearbox rebuild to hold 400rwk+ will be on the cards) or if manual Twin Plate clutch with SMFW So be warned these upgrades are just for the engine and at this power level when things get ugly, they get ugly quick and get very expensive If your going to push past 400rwk+ your really have to have to look into a full engine build from a reliability standpoint, from what I have seen not many motors or gearboxes last long when pushed past this power level in our cars. Also Suspension and brake Upgrades are a must and so is LSD from 280rwk+ If i missed anything let me know and I'll add it. Last edited by martymil; 09-01-2017 at 06:34 PM.. |
08-23-2017, 04:57 AM | #3 |
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Meth can be great if someone really knows what they are doing and is anal about maintenance but really its only a cheap band aid, there is much better and safer ways but definitely not cheaper.
Saying that some things can be done using meth and at a 1/4 of the price to achieve the same result through chemical iat and knock suppression and I can see the attractiveness of this method but it can be very costly if not done right. |
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08-26-2017, 06:01 PM | #7 |
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Anything up to e20 is just for timing drop suppression and e30 is just a tiny little power boost which is not worth it and becomes a pain everytime you fill up
Your better of running a half bottle of nulon pro strengh octane booster it will have the same effect for timing without needing custom tunes |
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08-26-2017, 09:26 PM | #8 |
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Thanks for this post Marty - great read.
You mention RB Catch Can. You really rate it for longevity don't you? I have been thinking about it but have not pulled the trigger on the purchase as yet. Just running BMS OCC at present. Granted I have read lots of threads clearly depicting how much oil they do (RB External PCV) pick up. Why have you stated it as needed for stage 1 mate? Just good practice? Cheers |
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08-27-2017, 12:16 AM | #9 | |
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08-27-2017, 04:41 AM | #10 |
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The rb catch can picks up a lot of oil even with no tune, it should be mandatory to run one.
I would not run any more than e20 on a stage 1 tune or 10 litres per fuel tank is a good measure otherwise you have to change the fuel scalar in the MHD flash Any 98 ron mhd map should be good with 10 litres of e85 per tank. But best is to log as not every motor is the same I prefer using nulon pro strength octane booster than e85 for timing drops. Much safer. Last edited by martymil; 09-01-2017 at 06:40 PM.. |
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08-28-2017, 09:37 PM | #11 |
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EDIT: Disregard. Octane Booster fouls up your spark plugs.
I'll just stick to regular fuel until I can afford a new LPFP. Last edited by xQx; 08-28-2017 at 10:34 PM.. |
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08-29-2017, 05:28 PM | #13 |
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martymil I just did a quick search of the forums but couldn't find anything. Can you tell me more about the HPFP derestriction and inline filter?
Thx. |
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09-03-2017, 07:46 PM | #17 |
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No one has mentioned brakes, suspension or tyres.
Very important part of going fast is being able to turn and stop. Take it from someone that used to race. |
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09-13-2017, 03:25 AM | #19 |
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Spark plugs
When should we be running cooler plugs?
FBO+ E20? I am about to go FBO with all the aux bits i.e. stage 2 LPFP but am still undecided on running the NGK plugs.... Also are there engine safety benefits to running the custom BEF as opposed to just running Map 5 JB4? Its not something I have found a straight answer to besides gains in power and smoothness. |
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09-14-2017, 12:46 AM | #21 | |
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09-14-2017, 07:24 AM | #22 |
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Correct
Too aggressive for our fuel, us98 is like our 95. It just pulls timing, thats why I like custom maps and not of the shelf ones. Your better off running a 95 ron map on our 98ron fuel or add 7 to 10 litres of e85 with every fill up and log the difference is minimal and not worth the hassle |
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