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      10-15-2010, 10:38 PM   #1
135ARG
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Question To JB3 or not to JB3?

I've been craving more power out of my 1(n54) for a while now and I am constantly changing my mind on wether or not get the JB3. I have read most reviews and information but still can't come to the conclusion of wether or not its worth risking my warranty. I know that with the BT cable I can check for troublesome codes but I'm still not convinced that its that safe. mainly because i have no experience operating the program what so ever.

So here's my question to you guys and gals that have or haven't installed the jb3 in your cars.

Why should i? and is it safe to do so(warranty and engine damage)?

If anyone in the katy/houston are has the JB3 and wouldn't mind showing me thier set up and put my mind on ease on the subject i would apreciate it.
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      10-15-2010, 10:46 PM   #2
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Just get it. Get the BT cable and remove the JB3 and clear codes before service. The program is REALLY simple. As long as you run the right map for your conditions either 3 or 5, you shouldn't do any engine damage.
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      10-15-2010, 10:57 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chesterfan1230 View Post
Just get it. Get the BT cable and remove the JB3 and clear codes before service. The program is REALLY simple. As long as you run the right map for your conditions either 3 or 5, you shouldn't do any engine damage.
can i pick which codes i erase and which i leave?
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      10-15-2010, 10:59 PM   #4
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whats the major diffrence between the BT cable and the CAN tool? which one is best?
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      10-15-2010, 11:12 PM   #5
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I'll let you take my 1 for a spin at CCM8 if you're going to that
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      10-15-2010, 11:31 PM   #6
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Don't you only need the by cable for anything above map 5?
Per Terry on the map guide, it doesn't say that maps 1-5 will throw codes
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      10-15-2010, 11:42 PM   #7
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i will get the cable regardless on the claims about the codes just for my peace of mind if i decide to go with the tune.
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      10-16-2010, 12:37 AM   #8
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You might want to do some research for yourself rather than trusting opinions.

This thread is a good place to start: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...439505&page=26
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      10-16-2010, 12:43 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ilma View Post
You might want to do some research for yourself rather than trusting opinions.

This thread is a good place to start: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...439505&page=26
OKay first of all this guy is running almost 20psi. On top of that he had a methanol injection failure, let's not scare the guy who wants to safely add 80 horsepower to his n54. The failsafe on his meth didn't trigger which caused engine detonation and screwed up a piston ring.

We're not telling the OP to run map 11 or something as soon as he gets his jb3. Sure he can do that and risk blowing up his engine. He can simply run map 3 or map 5 and will NOT have any risk at all of blowing up his engine. W
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      10-16-2010, 08:16 AM   #10
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The JB3 PnP w/ CT is a great combo @ $579. On map 3 you'll pickup around 60whp/60wtq or around 70whp/70wtq on map 5. The CT lets you read/delete any hidden codes, do in dash displays for diagnostics if the need ever comes up, etc. All around cool tool to have and worth the $50. It's also not VIN locked so you can share it with friends.

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      10-16-2010, 08:18 AM   #11
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Pm sent to OP
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      10-16-2010, 08:28 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chesterfan1230 View Post
OKay first of all this guy is running almost 20psi. On top of that he had a methanol injection failure, let's not scare the guy who wants to safely add 80 horsepower to his n54. The failsafe on his meth didn't trigger which caused engine detonation and screwed up a piston ring.

We're not telling the OP to run map 11 or something as soon as he gets his jb3. Sure he can do that and risk blowing up his engine. He can simply run map 3 or map 5 and will NOT have any risk at all of blowing up his engine. W
I guess you missed my point.

Not all posts in that thread are about the blown engine.......many posts are about timing control and how the JB3 rides the DME knock system in order to reduce timing. None of this relates to running meth or 20 psi, but basic fundamentals.

Did you even see the graphs I posted showing the knock and subsequent pulled timing you can get at 14 psi with no timing control? Is that how you prefer to control timing?

You should understand that engine knock may have an ongoing cummulative impact on your car.

Last edited by Ilma; 10-16-2010 at 08:33 AM..
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      10-16-2010, 08:37 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chesterfan1230 View Post
Just get it. Get the BT cable and remove the JB3 and clear codes before service. The program is REALLY simple. As long as you run the right map for your conditions either 3 or 5, you shouldn't do any engine damage.
Chester summed it perfectly.

The JB (3 or Plus which I am running) is absolutely terrific. Having a JB doesn't mean you will throw codes but might. I bought the scan tool after 1 year of running at 50% because I wanted to go to 100%). The Scan tool lets you sleep, eliminating warranty worries plus its informative. You can select what you want to erase. In my case I also did an axle-back and simple additions like the two I did will not cause engine damage. I drive 100 miles a day and the only issues I have had is HPFP to no ones surprise.

Keep everything in good order and when you no longer have the car, priced fairly, it will sell in one day via the marketplace and you will recoup a good % of your investment.

Burger Tuning is great product and truly great people.
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      10-16-2010, 09:05 AM   #14
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JB3 is great for the money. I have had mine for 2 years no issues, but I plan on GIAC next to give it a try.
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      10-16-2010, 09:36 AM   #15
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Get the JB3 + CANTool to read and clear codes. Excellent combo, excellent price.

I have had the JB3 on both of my 135i's, 40k miles combined - with zero problems. I had one HPFP replaced during the winter when I wasn't even running JB3 for 3 months.

Also have JB3 on all family members cars: 335i 6MT, Z4 3.5 sDrive 6MT, 135i AT - over 45k additional miles, and also 0 problems.... And thats running maps 5 AND 7 with just JB3 and DCI..... (map 7 in the colder months, map 5 in the warmer months...)

-----
Truth be told, all of the tuning options are decent (except the old AA solution IMO). This includes JB3, JB+, Procede, SSTT, Dinan Flash and GIAC Flash. If you run these in their recommended modes - they all do what they are supposed to do. And yes, I have had experience, first hand, with ALL except for the GIAC which gets positive reviews.

I don't think anyone can argue with that.
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      10-16-2010, 11:12 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ilma View Post
You might want to do some research for yourself rather than trusting opinions.

This thread is a good place to start: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...439505&page=26
Are people really that nieve? I can't see how a person would act as if this is somehow terry's or the jb3's fault. The owner was running more than double the boost on what used to be a jb3 but was no longer because the owner opened it up, removed soldered parts on the electronic board and then installed parts of his own in an effort to bypass the safe guards in the jb3. It is what he wanted to do. The jb3 would have never done this in stock form with all fail safes in place because it wouldn't reach that boost level.

Furthermore, he had a heavily modified car also. Trying to scare people with posts like that is pretty sad. There is no comparison between a person driving even on map 7 of a stock jb3 vs. the guy on that post. NOT only did the guy so all of that but was running 20 psi on pump gas and TURNED OFF THE FAILSAFE FOR METHANOL. THE jb3 when properly set up to run high amounts of boost has a built in mechanism to go back to a safe map in the event that it doesn't detect methanol flow. The guy had this option disabled.

Comparing someone with a stock board running map 5 to that is like saying an apple is an orange!
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      10-16-2010, 11:22 AM   #17
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I have the jb3 and love it! Had no problems and these guys that talk about timing, thru are trying to push the procede. The 4th gen jb3 is gonna be out before christmas, is free upgrade for u if u buy jb3 now and IT WILL HAVE TIMING CONTROL, MONITORING, FULL CAN AND ALL CODE CLEARING FOR HALF THE PRICE of the procede. PLUS, many other options. It will even use the same wiring harness so all u have to do os unplug the jb3 and plug in g4. Otherwise u can wait untill it comes out.
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      10-16-2010, 11:41 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ilma View Post
I guess you missed my point.

Not all posts in that thread are about the blown engine.......many posts are about timing control and how the JB3 rides the DME knock system in order to reduce timing. None of this relates to running meth or 20 psi, but basic fundamentals.

Did you even see the graphs I posted showing the knock and subsequent pulled timing you can get at 14 psi with no timing control? Is that how you prefer to control timing?

You should understand that engine knock may have an ongoing cummulative impact on your car.

I understand what you're saying BUT most of this will be fixed with the gen 4 Can bus version of the JB3 that will be coming out very soon. Secondly, as long as a user is running map 3 or map 5 with the stock 24ohm resistors he should not even REACH max timing to cause knocking. Even if he is running map 7 or 9 with the stock resistors the person wouldn't be able to max it out.
Anyways, this argument will continue forever. I say it's best we respectfully disagree BUT agree that the JB3 is a great option ESPECIALLY when the gen 4 can bus comes out.
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      10-16-2010, 12:13 PM   #19
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I've been thinking about it too. I decided I'm just going to wait and get the Dinan when it fits my budget. I really don't want to fiddle with clearing codes and playing games with my warranty. Besides, my understanding is that a good mechanic can tell the turbos have been over boosted on a tear down if it really came down to it anyway.

Peace of mind has it's price I guess.
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      10-16-2010, 12:53 PM   #20
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Wink

It is really a personal decision but I thought about dinan also. The biggest problems with that is that if they go bust, you have nothing. There have been rumors of financial problems.also, you definitely void your bmw warranty with Dinan and I didn't know how to sell my car with a voided bmw warranty if I need to sell it before warranty expires.

The one other problem besides the price of Dinan and the other flash tunes is once they flash it, the dme records boost levels at all times and there is no way to delete the info. If u wanted ever to get something like giac and re flash back to stock for warranty work, they will see u hit 16 psi all the time. The stock tune doesn't go over 9 psi so that is proof you messed with boost.

It Doesn't matter what a tech thinks, they have to prove u did it to void ur warranty.
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      10-16-2010, 01:01 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rawhide View Post
I really don't want to fiddle with clearing codes and playing games with my warranty.
The benefit of minimal fiddling is a dramatic increase in performance in the 135i.

By minimal, I mean 45 minutes of fiddling. It is really easy fiddling.

The warranty games are easily won if you just remember to spend 45 minutes to remove the object of ones fiddling, and run the code detection program. OK, that is another 10 minutes of fiddling.

I am a certified fiddler.
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      10-16-2010, 01:10 PM   #22
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fiddle fiddle fiddle =)
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