Front strut install question...

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When replacing the front struts, do you have to separate the outer tie rod end? And also, what is the torx size? Thanks

[Pig Farmer]

No need to remove the tie rod. This video may answer some of your questions...

[A_Squared]

That's an excellent video...what I followed to do mine. I just loosened my control arm. You will still need to push down on the assembly to get enough clearance to pull the strut out. Also to get to the control arm bolt you will have to remove the wheel well liner. I tried to get to the tie rod as I've seen some do it this way, but I couldn't get a good enough angle to get decent leverage on it. Control arm worked just fine for me though.

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Thanks you guys! The only thing is, when I went to do it today, I got to the point of pulling the strut assembly out but could not clear the fender. It seemed as though the tie rod ball joint at the rack was at it's max angle and I didn't want to hog on it and damage it.

[ShocknAwe]

Originally Posted by brake-fade

Thanks you guys! The only thing is, when I went to do it today, I got to the point of pulling the strut assembly out but could not clear the fender. It seemed as though the tie rod ball joint at the rack was at it's max angle and I didn't want to hog on it and damage it.

You can try what I did and see if it works for you.

Disconnect sway bar end link and loosen control arm at frame, remove pinch and spread spindle. Remove 2/3 strut tower nuts. support hub with jack. lower jack and while making sure you don't strain the brake line, wiggle the hub down.

Do that and with penetrating oil on the spindle the shock should just slide out. Then just remove the 3rd nut up on top carefully and you can take the shock out of the fender freely.

[E82MSport]

The ECS video is quite a good DIY that translates quite well to the 1-series platform. You can get away with leaving the caliper and rotor on the spindle/hub assembly, just make sure (as ShocknAwe pointed out) not to strain the flexible brake line. If you're not comfortable just remove the caliper and hang it out of the way, leave the rotor on.

The real key to having enough room to slide the strut out while still in the spindle is to loosen both the control arm and the tension arm at the subframe. This will allow you not only the room to lower the assembly but keep you from damaging the inner bushings (as the tech mentioned in the video). Remember that the final torque to those inner suspension bolts should be under load/weight of the vehicle. From what I remember, this is a two-step process. First torque to a set spec and then a 90* final turn (these are torque-to-yield/stretch bolts). BMW recommends replacing but I opted not.

Just an FYI; to gain access to the subframe bolts you must remove the forward inner wheel liner (as well as loosen the belly pan plastic shields) and the tire pressure module is attached to that forward liner. Be very careful removing the liner and the connector to the module.

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Thanks for your help everyone!! Ended up doing as ShocknAwe suggested, and it worked really well. Now it's ready for the BMW 2 day driver's school next month!