e8x electric waterpump failure poll...

[knc]

How are those under CPO getting their car to the dealer to replace? Is BMW paying for the towing?

I'm at 45K miles and under CPO but nervous and considering replacing myself.

I understand CPO will cover it, but there's many places to get stranded that aren't next to a BMW dealer.

[skyscraper_g80]

2006 E87 130i, water pump died at approximately 115,000kms whilst I was on the track, coolant all over the engine bay. Had to get the car towed back home ($600), on top of the replacement cost for the water pump and thermostat.

I'd strongly recommend having a spare ready if your car is approaching 60k miles or 100k kms

[Iron Man]

Originally Posted by ShocknAwe

True. The membership here is staggeringly disproportionate though, and evidence of 328i WPs failing in the same manner indicates the N52 suffers the same problem.

Are the N52 and N55 WP's the same part number? I'm guessing no, but thought I would ask (sorry, too lazy to research).

[IEDEI]

mine has NOT failed, but with 62k miles on my 1M i have decided to get the Water Pump and Thermostat replaced today. Having it done at the BMW dealer (that i trust, actually) and is going to cost around $1100 total.

My service agent (really good) told me he has seen many N54 water pumps fail between 60k and 80k miles in the past---which is the same as what you guys have noted.

The way i see it; this is one of the few things that can really strand us on the road----so might as well do it.

thanks for all your documentation and input.

[Chunner]

Originally Posted by IEDEI

mine has NOT failed, but with 62k miles on my 1M i have decided to get the Water Pump and Thermostat replaced today. Having it done at the BMW dealer (that i trust, actually) and is going to cost around $1100 total.

My service agent (really good) told me he has seen many N54 water pumps fail between 60k and 80k miles in the past---which is the same as what you guys have noted.

The way i see it; this is one of the few things that can really strand us on the road----so might as well do it.

thanks for all your documentation and input.

Who's you dealer?

[Cavpilot2k]

So it does NOT seem to be as big an issue with N55s? Or do you think it is because the N55s are naturally going to have fewer average miles and are less likely to have hit the point of increased vulnerability?

[dcaron9999]

I was driving my tuned 2011 135i car on the track with a student onboard yesterday evening, and suddenly ended up with a loss of power, and throttle response. Engine did not run rough or anything, but lacked the normal pedal reaction, as if I lacked half the power.

I came back into the pit area, and let my engine+turbo cool down run at idle for 5 mins or so, as I allways do. Suddenly got the red engine coolant light on my dashboard.

I bought my 2011 135i used at 48,000Kms, now have 74,000Kms, and have been running the car hard on the track for the last thre years.

My Cobb Accessport is not the best for code reading and code descriptions, but revealed an OBD code of P31E9.

After the car cooled down, no codes or DTC light showed up on the dashboard, I drove home fine but again had serious lack of power, and pedal response, but strangely, only under 3000RPM, after which I had the normal surge of power that Im used to. This is the first time that IVe experienced this behaviour in 3 years of lapping.

Do you guys think that this is the early symptoms of a failing water pump? The production date of my 135i/N55 is 08/2010.

Thanks for your help.

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by dcaron9999

I was driving my tuned 2011 135i car on the track with a student onboard yesterday evening, and suddenly ended up with a loss of power, and throttle response. Engine did not run rough or anything, but lacked the normal pedal reaction, as if I lacked half the power.

I came back into the pit area, and let my engine+turbo cool down run at idle for 5 mins or so, as I allways do. Suddenly got the red engine coolant light on my dashboard.

I bought my 2011 135i used at 48,000Kms, now have 74,000Kms, and have been running the car hard on the track for the last thre years.

My Cobb Accessport is not the best for code reading and code descriptions, but revealed an OBD code of P31E9.

After the car cooled down, no codes or DTC light showed up on the dashboard, I drove home fine but again had serious lack of power, and pedal response, but strangely, only under 3000RPM, after which I had the normal surge of power that Im used to. This is the first time that IVe experienced this behaviour in 3 years of lapping.

Do you guys think that this is the early symptoms of a failing water pump? The production date of my 135i/N55 is 08/2010.

Thanks for your help.

Yep, sounds like its time for a new waterpump and thermostat(& hardware - bolts).

Dackel

[dcaron9999]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

Yep, sounds like its time for a new waterpump and thermostat(& hardware - bolts).

Dackel

I found my issue, and it is actually not the WP.

I found pinched fan wires, with exposed wires rubbing against chassis, which shorted out, and brought the 60 amp Fan fuse related to thermoter pictogram inside fuse box.

Due to heat, the cotton tape wire holders had loosened, and fan wiring somehow got pinched between air intake ducts and metal chassis. With vibration over a period of time, the abrasion chewed up the plastic off the three conductors used by the fan (two large gauge, and one thin gauge).


Solution was to tidy everything up, and replace the fuse.

OBD code is gone, and full power is back.

[drewster99]

Mine didn't exactly "fail" but it started leaking all over the place today between the two housings. It had been slowly leaking for the past few months so I knew it was on its' way out. I'm just about to order the parts. @43,000 miles

[Josh (PA)]

2011 N55 w/ 33,000 miles

Driving on the highway Friday, I shifted into 6th and felt noticeable lack/lag of power. Shortly after, yellow water temp light. As I pulled over got the red water temp light. Oil temp remained in normal region. I shut the car off immediately and opened the hood to let everything cool. Waited about 10 mins and restarted. No codes/no temp issues. Turned the heater on, AC off and started driving home. All seemed fine and I was able to get it back to my home. I have an appt for it to go to the dealer tomorrow. I expect this is the water pump and it will be covered under CPO.

Is that a valid expectation? I didn't read all 13 pages of this thread, but have others seen the intermittent failure before it completely dies? Has the pump been redesigned and have people had problems with recently installed units?


EDIT: It was a failed waterpump. replaced under CPO for $50

[dcaron9999]

Originally Posted by Josh (PA)

2011 N55 w/ 33,000 miles

Driving on the highway Friday, I shifted into 6th and felt noticeable lack/lag of power. Shortly after, yellow water temp light. As I pulled over got the red water temp light. Oil temp remained in normal region. I shut the car off immediately and opened the hood to let everything cool. Waited about 10 mins and restarted. No codes/no temp issues. Turned the heater on, AC off and started driving home. All seemed fine and I was able to get it back to my home. I have an appt for it to go to the dealer tomorrow. I expect this is the water pump and it will be covered under CPO.

IF you can you take an OBD reader to your car, you may be surprised to find a cooling fan related isuue, like what happened to my tuned 2011 135i. Your issue could be as simple as damaged wires like what happened to me.

Last week, I was driving my tuned 2011 135i car on the track with a student onboard and suddenly ended up with a loss of power, and throttle response. Engine did not run rough or anything, but lacked the normal pedal reaction, as if I lacked half the power. Oil temps was fine, even low'ish.

I came back into the pit area, and let my engine+turbo cool down run at idle for 5 mins or so, as I allways do. Suddenly got the red engine coolant light on my dashboard.

After the car cooled down, no codes or DTC light showed up on the dashboard, I drove home fine but again had serious lack of power, and pedal response, but strangely, only under 3000RPM, after which I had the normal surge of power that Im used to.

After investigation, I looked up the DTC OBD code that kept coming back after clearing it. It showed as a short or kind of wiring issue. I found pinched wires with exposed metal, and a blown #92 fuse in my glove box related to cooling ...

BTW, good move on turning heater at MAX setting, while driving back home! I use this trick during my cool down lap at the track ...

[jph1]

2010 Water pump is okay

[Metta121]

2010 MY, 128i, N51 with 76000 miles; No water pump failure, but I am seriously contemplating having it replaced soon.

[CrazyIrishPenguin]

My 2012 had about 34k miles when the water pump went. Just driving home on normal roads and had to pull over, was close enough to get it home when it cooled a bit. Made an appointment with the dealership and was able to take it over without overheating again. Was fixed under warranty, a pain but not as bad as it could have been. Sucks it happened with low miles but nice it didn't cost anything with warranty.

[FABIAN128I]

I Am At 92,000, And Still Have The Original Water Pump , Only Thing Had Done Was One Coolant Flush, At 52,000. :d

[Box007]

06/2008 135 N54, water pump failed at 72k miles in the middle of no where West Texas on our way to vacation. Had to limp the car to the nearest hotel in 30-40 minute intervals, took forever. Over 200 miles to a dealer or reputable repair shop, had to trailer it home. Replaced the pump/therm, additional cost of hotel, truck, trailer, aggravation, wife venting... priceless...

[MightyMouseTech]

Fuck me that sucks!

[mmmusty]

I'm the second owner i believe of my 2008 128i, has about 97000 miles... i believe on the stock water pump.

so i used to have the opinion of replacing certain things, including the water pump, before the actual need to... ive opted out of this seeing as how solid the 1 is compared to my e46 m.

do you guys recommend me changing the water pump based on mileage alone?

are there any signs, or symptoms that i can use instead of just replacing it before it needs it?

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by mmmusty

I'm the second owner i believe of my 2008 128i, has about 97000 miles... i believe on the stock water pump.

so i used to have the opinion of replacing certain things, including the water pump, before the actual need to... ive opted out of this seeing as how solid the 1 is compared to my e46 m.

do you guys recommend me changing the water pump based on mileage alone?

are there any signs, or symptoms that i can use instead of just replacing it before it needs it?

No signs before it will fail. It either works or it doesn't. Best plan is to replace it before it fails - in no mans land. You can pick up a new pump & thermostat for under $500 in parts.

Dackel

[dcaron9999]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

No signs before it will fail. It either works or it doesn't. Best plan is to replace it before it fails - in no mans land. You can pick up a new pump & thermostat for under $500 in parts.

Thanks Dackel.

Are there better and more robust pumps+tstats on the market than OEM?
Where are people buying them from - typical vendors such as ECSTuning, Turner, or dealership?

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by dcaron9999

Thanks Dackel.

Are there better and more robust pumps+tstats on the market than OEM?
Where are people buying them from - typical vendors such as ECSTuning, Turner, or dealership?

It seems that BMW must have changed something in the internal design of the pumps bc the post 2010's cars seem to go (much)longer that the early built('08 & 0'9's) cars.

I would buy a replacement pump from any of the reputable vendors here on Bimmerpost.com