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12-03-2013, 06:15 PM | #23 | ||||||||||||
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I got my 6MT shipped from the uk for roughly $1200AUD air freight and all. could possibly get cheaper if you were willing to wait, i think there's a couple 6MT and 6AT on ebay right now to check pricing... i'd say $800 pretty easily without having it wait around? ymmv, don't quote me on that lol. Quote:
half shafts for non-m's are shared, drive shaft modification is cheap.. diff from the donor car?.. apart from fitting the 135i brakes, the hubs are the same/will fit up to the diff etc. (more on brakes below) Quote:
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i just checked for you 118i manual: L=1531MM auto: L=1407MM 135i manual: L=1353MM auto: L=1373MM longer trans/engine is my guess. engine for sure though hah much easier. kinda cool, but easier. Quote:
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engineering isn't expensive for factory>factory stuff. and to put in the N54, you need brakes from an N54 equipped car to get it certified. Quote:
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13. yes, smart idea to have the tools just in case, when they're not super expensive.. hoist with a bar, jack to get the trans/subframe/whatever up as needed.. i got myself a crane for $150 lightly used.. and if i wanted, could sell it for $150 today, so no biggie. yes, you can unbolt the front crossmember and have the front wide open. easier. so yes could get a 6MT for $1000 shipped say (unknown condition, easy enough to get opened and eyeballed), $1000 for a GOOD clutch+flywheel... sell 6AT for a good percentage of the cost of the 6MT itself? Last edited by flinchy; 12-03-2013 at 06:21 PM.. |
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12-03-2013, 09:14 PM | #25 |
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I love your optimism but I have to ask.
Who will want to buy this Chimera off you when you decide to sell? Assuming it ever makes it out of the garage. Fiddling with BMW ECUs is not for the faint of heart (or wallet). My 2.3c (inflation adjusted) - You would be better off starting with a 135i, chopping the boot and grafting 2 back doors. |
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12-04-2013, 01:55 AM | #27 |
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12-04-2013, 02:20 AM | #28 |
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12-04-2013, 04:17 AM | #29 |
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The people that do engine swaps in modern BMW's don't do it to save a few bucks, in fact it's quite the opposite. They do it because they can. There are a lot of people doing conversions, but not many out there have been completed.
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12-04-2013, 06:10 AM | #30 |
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c'mon fellas, the guy has a dream car in mind and also the coin, so who are we to say it's crazy, stupid or foolish to do so. Group think isn't always right. Even if we are correct and he's nuts, it's still his dream car for now. I say go for it if you can!!
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12-04-2013, 06:26 AM | #32 | |
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Drives: BSM e82 135i
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12-05-2013, 06:14 AM | #33 | |
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You have made my decision much easier. Just when you say: "yes, you can unbolt the front crossmember and have the front wide open. easier." I'm not sure I follow. To me a cross member is what the motor rests on, and if you unbolted that, the motor would drop or sag, and there would be no influence on the front end of the vehicle. On another note, I don't understand what is the cause of the negativity from most others. The way I see it, it could be several reasons. - Is it that because so many projects end up unfinished due to lack of time/money? - Is it that because so many projects end up unfinished due to lack of motivation? - Or is it because so many BMW projects in particular end up unfinished? Because they are more complex than most other cars, or for whatever other reason that is unique to BMW/Euro cars? What I am basically asking is if I am being warned against taking on a BMW project, or just "don't start a project car" in general? I suppose people's responses will vary. PS. That realoem.com is awesome. |
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12-05-2013, 03:20 PM | #34 | |
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http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...02&hg=51&fg=15 - yes - yes - swapping a motor of the same 'generation' (E8x motor into E8x.. or even say an S65, which requires a few more parts at least) isn't a huge project... getting an N54 into .. well, anything older, is a bit different. - I can't speak for them specifically in this thread, but as a global thing, MANY people get part way through projects and life/money/motivation issues happen. I'd say my lack of major progress for so long isn't helping either lol A couple of big differences between N54/E8x and say, S54 or an older BMW motor... everything's even more heavily tied together electronic wise, and there's still no real affordable aftermarket engine management solution, given the direct injection and other complexities inside.. compared to an older motor where if you want you can run just about anything decent.. drop an S54 into an E30? sweet!.. N54 into E30? unless you can/want to spend megabucks on a Motec, you have to carry over a lot more electronics for the stock immobilisation. N54 into E87.. well there's already two that i know of over in europe - the only thing stopping you is motivation and the money to do so. Heck, people put chain driven bike engines in cars all the time, JZ's, RB's, rotors, and large V8's into cars that have no business having them, are much larger projects requiring custom engine mounts, custom brake setups often, and hand wired ECM. Last edited by flinchy; 12-05-2013 at 03:27 PM.. |
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12-07-2013, 01:11 AM | #36 |
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Flinchy, kkuba,
Don't pay any attention to the nay sayers. For most of them a big thing is taking their car to a workshop and getting some bolt on parts done. Woohoo yawn. I have done a number of late model BMW swaps and race car builds including two 130i race cars. Doing a swap project is very fulfilling when you are driving the swapped car. The difficult things with late model BMW swaps is the electrics. Especially with the newer E8X and E9X cars. My advice is decide if you want a auto or a manual. If you want or would be happy with an auto go an find the nicest 118i auto you can find and then move all the electrics and mechanical components over from your 135i donor. You may need to move the whole wiring loom over. There would be enough wiring and electrical component differences that you would be having to do lots of special wiring or splices to get some of tag components working together if you don't use the whole loom. If you want a manual look for a manual donor car. They come up at the auctions reasonably often and they are cheap for a stat write off. I have thought about doing a E90 M3 into an E87. Regarding Auto versus Manual I had an Auto 130i as my road car for 4 years and it was great fun. Drove it like a manual using the paddle shifts all the time. They are not like the traditional auto. They are also quick off the line and great at the traffic light drags as they auto change up so you don't make mistakes in the gear shifts. Worth considering. You need to get hold of a WDS (BMW wiring manual) and research the electrical components in conjunction with realoem. Good luck with the swap. Cheers Brian |
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12-09-2013, 08:31 PM | #37 | |
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Thanks for your input. The plan would be to take the whole loom over. To avoid splicing. However, you seem to be suggesting that there would still be a requirement for splicing? I don't understand why. Coming from the auto industry, I expected to hear that everything is plug and play for different motors, to reduce complexity (as it is with all the cars I am currently working on). Basically, if you go back far enough along the wiring loom, you will find a connector that can be unplugged, and will be common back from there, between whatever two cars you are trying to combine (within the same model range of course). How far you have to go back depends on how much difference there is in the cars you are trying to combine. And initial responses seem to have confirmed this, but you seem to have a different view. Could you please elaborate? Given your experience, what were some examples of electrical issues which you ran into in your swaps of E8x/9x cars?? I have seen a few 135i wrecks come and go, but they have all been auto. And if I look on carsales it seems a large proportion of 135i cars are auto. It makes me think it will be hard to find a complete MT wreck. I am now pretty set on an MT car, it seems fairly easy to do the transmission conversion while doing the engine conversion. Provided I have all the changeover parts. Would you disagree? The main reason I don't want an AT is because I don't like the lack of clutch pedal. I find a clutch pedal makes the drive so much more interesting. Also, I get the perception that it makes the car more predictable, and the drive more involving. But hey, that's just me. What are "tag components" ? Cheers! |
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12-11-2013, 05:31 PM | #38 |
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Hi Kuba,
Sorry I hadn't checked the thread in the last few days. Even when you take the loom across (highly recommended) there may be still some components that have to stay in the original chassis. An example for an E87 is that the LCI tail lights have a different plug to the earlier version. Therefore you need to either change the light (easy if from E87 to E87) or splice in the new connector. Some examples from your conversion is rear doors and windows, hatch and rear lights. You may need to splice in wiring for these. Also you may want to remove the convertible top wiring. You may also need to do some coding for the rear doors etc as well as the convertible. None of these issues should be a problem, you just need to go in with eyes open. Cheers Brian |
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12-11-2013, 05:36 PM | #39 |
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tag = the hehehe
However it raises a good point. When you remove the harness put a little tag on each of the wires so you know where they come from. I just use masking tape and permanent marker to create a tag label. Cheers Brian |
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12-11-2013, 11:01 PM | #40 | |
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Appreciate your response very much. I do have some questions though. Sorry, I should clarify some ambiguity in my post. I meant the whole *engine* loom, as it is my understanding that the engine loom simply unplugs from the body loom, with a common connector to all the other engine looms. Simplified: Pull out engine, pull out engine harness, plug and install new engine harness, install new engine. Install new ECU, re-code for non-iDrive, 5 doors, non-'vert, ready to go? Is this not how it works? Only thing with above is I'm not sure what are the responsibilities of BCM and ECU and if there is any cross over. ie. if they are completely separate, then maybe no/minimal re-coding required. But coding i suppose is the least of my worries. Thanks again for your help. |
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12-12-2013, 12:06 AM | #41 | |
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basically every module is identical between years and chassis, even to E9x things like the doors/convertible top are on the JBE>chassis modules side of the electrics, in the FRM i believe (http://bmw.workshop-manuals.com/1_Se...ex.php?id=3856), rather than the JBE>DME side so the key/buttons send the unlock code outside of the DME, and only require the DME>CAS interaction to be successful in de-immobilising the car. so it's a waste of time swapping in the body loom, as all you'll really achieve is making things unhappy.. all you need is the engine loom to plug into the DME, then the DME plugs into the chassis side connector (large grey lead i think?) |
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12-12-2013, 01:45 AM | #42 |
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Ok but I in some of the swaps I have done there have been differences between the modules ie Instrument Panels, mirrors etc between models. All I am saying is do your research using WDS to ensure the various modules use the same plugs and wiring.
Also if you are just changing the engine loom (which should just plug in) will there then be VIN differences between ECU, EWS, Speedo etc which means it will not work. What about the other modules? Cheers Brian |
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12-12-2013, 02:41 AM | #43 | |
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if swap dash with DME and CAS, then no issues, it all matches. CAS stores the immobilisation code for the ECU and is needed for it to be started I can't remember any others that store VIN or anything, just need calibration/synch., part numbers for things like ABS sensors are identical. |
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12-13-2013, 09:09 PM | #44 |
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.-=[ Kenny ]=-. 1999 BMW M Coupe 10.775 @ 134.35 mph w/1.600 60' (Best 136.07 mph) 25th August 2004. +2010 X5 35D+
Check out the 1Addicts Drag Racing Standings and Drag Racing 101. |
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