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      06-22-2012, 05:18 AM   #1
Phlonx
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Enough camber?

I will be ordering a set of Apex EC-7s soon. Want to fit 245/35/18 up front. Wondering if I can achieve enough (-) camber with the pin removal and Dinan (non-adjustable) camber plates. Also installing KW V1s before this happens, plan to have a minimal drop.

What kind of camber is realistic with this set up? I understand about -1.5 is needed to avoid rubbing.
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      06-22-2012, 05:23 AM   #2
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I think you'll get about -1.2 degrees with that setup.
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      06-22-2012, 06:41 AM   #3
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I'm running the m3 front control arms and had the pins pulled. I was able to get -1.4 degrees.
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      06-22-2012, 07:33 AM   #4
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Things are going to be tight. You may have to do a little work to make it a rub free setup.

-Josh
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      06-22-2012, 03:52 PM   #5
Phlonx
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Everybody recommends m3 control arms as the next camber friendly mod. I'm trying to stay whithin budget so im trying to avoid them, im not tracking the car. But for the heck of it, how much are they? Where to get them, BMW? (part #?)

Any other inexpensive ideas to get just a few more tenths? I really want to fit 245's
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      06-22-2012, 04:00 PM   #6
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Lowered 1.5" in the front with the pin pulled and I got -1.2 degrees.. I also want to fit 245s. I think after adding dinan plates or M3 arms it shouldn't be a problem. But if you want to avoid either, fender roll or pull is the next option. Cheaper but has some downsides.
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      06-22-2012, 04:49 PM   #7
Phlonx
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Im trying to not do any permanent mods to the car, so im trying to stay away front fender rolling as well. Cost effective for sure though.

If u got -1.2 without camber plates, Dinan claims -.7 on top, so thats -1.9 total. Even if its -1.5 it should work for me.
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      06-22-2012, 04:59 PM   #8
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Why not just go for Ground Control Camber Plates? Probably much over -2 if needed without any lowering or arm changes.

That said, too much camber up front isn't the best thing if u aren't really tracking the thing.
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      06-22-2012, 05:05 PM   #9
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Yup I think it's definitely doable even with a mild drop after plates.

Actually by my estimates it might even be doable without plates but I think the tire would rub the strut. So you'd need like a 3 or 5mm spacer.

But then depending on the tire it could run wide, like the Dunlop Star Specs. More neg camber will definitely make it easier.
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      06-22-2012, 05:24 PM   #10
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Yep, funseries brought up the other big issue, what brand 245 width tire are we talking about. You might can get a Falken or maybe a Toyo or Nitto to work with -1.5 camber but I think it will still rub at times. A wider running 245 up front is pretty difficult even with camber plates and fender work.
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      06-22-2012, 07:58 PM   #11
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Yes but, the EC-7 has perfect ofset, thats why 245s. Well that's what Paintpro posted that Apex released, we're waiting for pics. There r 2 sizes made specifically for the 1 series, and they r track wheels, so thats the basis for my hunt.

I will be running Conti DWs
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      06-22-2012, 08:32 PM   #12
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Is the front of those wheels 45 offset? Star Specs don't come in a 245 18" so that is not an issue but there 235 is as big as some brands 245. Also, because of the suspension geogrophy in the front lowering the car does not add camber but would put your wheel closer to the fender making you more likely to rub. I am pretty sure you would rub and might with the m3 bits as well on a 245. Just get smaller tires or adjustable camber plates.
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      06-24-2012, 09:46 PM   #13
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If you change the camber do you also need to adjust toe- in?
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      06-26-2012, 12:07 AM   #14
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Yes, changing camber changes toe. However, it goes in your favor that as you increase negative camber you increase toe out, both of which increase turn in. If you have adjustable camber plates you try to set them so they have max negative camber with your track desired toe out. Then when you mone them in from max negative camber to min negitive camber it moves toe towards zero.
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      06-26-2012, 07:45 AM   #15
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If you are looking to run a 245 on all 4 corners then your tire choice is going to be limited and you will have to be cautious of the wheel offset you choose, but it can be done without having to roll the fenders OR add a wheel spacer. Check out my thread here. I think anything beyond a 35 sidewall will cause fitment challenges. I assume you are looking for an extreme performance summer tire, right? If you are willing to step down a class in performance tires then you will have a few more options.

-Josh
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      06-26-2012, 08:26 AM   #16
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What pin do you pull for more camber?
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      07-01-2012, 08:01 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BiscottiGelato View Post
Why not just go for Ground Control Camber Plates? Probably much over -2 if needed without any lowering or arm changes.

That said, too much camber up front isn't the best thing if u aren't really tracking the thing.
sound advice, enough said. Not sure why you wouldnt just do it right the first go around and get real camber plates. I love em since I have a track set up and a DD set up and is super easy to adjust.
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      07-02-2012, 07:32 AM   #18
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I'm a little weary of noise. I dont want to introduce any clunking with 'real' camber plates, And I won't be tracking the car. Thats y the Dinan plates seems like the way to go, plus they're cheap.
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