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12-28-2020, 09:14 PM | #1 |
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Suspension advice
I just got a 2009 128i base model. The car is very tight and feels very solid. However, the base suspension is floaty in my opinion. I want to greatly reduce body roll and make the car flat when cornering hard. My friend has older 2005-2007 545i with sport package and I think he said the car has hydraulic sway bars. Honestly, his car "handles" better than mine.
I need some advice on coilovers. I really would like ohlins road and track, but it's out of my price range. Are there any decent coilovers that won't be too harsh for the street that are built well and won't need rebuilding every 30k miles? Originally, I was looking at B12 setup, but I don't like the look (front is way lower than the rear) and I've read horror stories about them lasting about 30k miles. Can I improve the handling of my car for around $1000-$1300? |
12-28-2020, 09:39 PM | #2 |
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I think you can make a significant improvement within that budget.
As far as springs/shocks, even a stock M-Sport suspension is an upgrade from what you have. Personally I wouldn't jump all the way to coilovers just yet. The rear subframe bushings are a major weak point that cause a "floaty" feeling. This can be solved with upgraded bushings (M3 bushings are popular) or bushing inserts. I think most would agree that swaybars are not the primary place to look. Your base car is just like mine, small front bar (not sure the size, but smaller than the M Sport bar) and no rear bar. However, be careful going too big on the rear bar. Its debatable if even having a rear bar at all helps or hurts. Note you do need to slightly lower the subframe to install a rear bar. I'm assuming the runflat tires are already gone. If not, ditch them for better tires. |
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2008e92328i44.00 Olgeezer1184.50 |
12-28-2020, 10:51 PM | #3 |
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I may be in the minority, but I didn’t really consider coilovers for my 128i. I’ve had good coilovers in the past and I’m just not sure they’re worth the extra cost. I think I adjusted them maybe 3 times in the 10 years I had them, including the initial setup. You can get great performance from a set of Swift springs and some Konis for a reasonable cost.
I still think about the Ohlins, and I may upgrade someday, but you certainly don’t need to spend that much for excellent handling.
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Last edited by Thunderguts; 12-28-2020 at 10:59 PM.. |
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2008e92328i44.00 Olgeezer1184.50 |
12-29-2020, 10:57 AM | #4 | ||
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12-29-2020, 11:00 AM | #5 | |||
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Thanks for your input |
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12-29-2020, 08:05 PM | #6 |
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I was reading about these the other day. Seems like a good deal.
https://www.vividracing.com/truhart-...152809242.html |
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12-29-2020, 09:03 PM | #7 |
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12-30-2020, 03:14 PM | #8 | ||
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12-30-2020, 03:18 PM | #9 | |||
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12-30-2020, 03:27 PM | #10 | |
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https://www.tcklineracing.com/index....y&Category=205
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12-31-2020, 11:31 AM | #11 | ||||
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12-31-2020, 12:22 PM | #12 | |
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Koni and Bilstein have been around a long time, and have been used by enthusiasts for years. You'll find "bad things" written about both, but the truth is they are generally a quality product. Sure, you can blow either of them out, you might run into a defective part - who knows, you can never tell really. But to just discount an entire brand, especially one that is as large as Koni, seems like a rash move. Your mileage may vary, just my 2 cents... |
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12-31-2020, 02:21 PM | #13 |
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I'm running Bilstein B6 and BMWPS T2/T3 at 160F/420R#. On the street, it's nicely firm with a compliant ride and not too low. it's dropped about 1/2" from the Msport which is 1/2" lower than stock.
Last edited by PcarDefector; 12-31-2020 at 03:35 PM.. Reason: corrected front springs to 160# |
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12-31-2020, 07:13 PM | #14 | ||||
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12-31-2020, 08:06 PM | #15 | |
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I can tell you if you get a set of nice coilovers like an Ohlins or similar, and you do your daily drive and lets say you have rough roads in your area, they're probably going to need a rebuild at 40K miles. I've got a B12 kit on the car for about 100K kms now, the rears are original and functioning normally (so they have 100K kms on them). I blew the 2 front shocks and can almost tell you the 2 or 3 impacts that did that (roads are terrible in my area, especially winter). It took about 60K kms of daily / bad road abuse to get to that point. It was a pain in the ass (you can search my threads) as Bilstein had a supply problem, but they were replaced under warranty. I'm just saying if you lower the car, and you're going to daily drive it, I don't really see the difference between a "coilover" vs a quality spring+damper set in terms of "longevity". Certainly, go ahead and get the coils if that's what you want, just don't expect them to last magically longer is all I'm saying.... |
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01-01-2021, 11:55 AM | #16 | ||||
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01-01-2021, 07:39 PM | #17 | |
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01-01-2021, 10:22 PM | #18 | ||||
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01-02-2021, 08:41 AM | #19 |
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Maybe I'm wrong about this, but, if you take advantage of the adjustability of coilovers (ride height, not damping), you are changing suspension geometry. If the change is enough, won't an alignment be necessary?
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01-03-2021, 07:22 PM | #21 | |
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Stock M-sport (albeit at 80,000 kms, by no means "blown" shocks, but not brand new) was a bit floaty. Wasn't helped by the shitty stock subframe bushings. I've written a few reviews but short answer, I like the way the car drives and rides. The pavement here in Toronto is pretty broken up due to frost heave, so the Bilsteins do feel a bit "sharp" over the small sharp bumps, that's very characteristic of Bilsteins in my experience. If the roads in your area are decent they are fantastic, as I really like the body control the provide. They deal with "dips" very well vs the "sharp" impacts which depending on what you want from a daily driver could bother you. I've driven on roads that were "bumpy" but not the broken pavement type bumpy and the suspension feels really well judged. I've heard Konis (which are also adjustable for dampening) behave a bit nicer on the sharp/broken pavement stuff, and you can dial them back a bit. |
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01-04-2021, 09:01 PM | #22 | ||
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1. You want to improve handling and reduce body roll when cornering hard. Comment: Are you referring to street or track use? Fixing roll on the street is easier than for track use. 2. You want reliability beyond 30k miles. Comment: any of the top tier aftermarket brand will achieve this goal but Bilstein and Koni are the most common in the sub-$1000 range.Plenty of reviews on both in this and other forums. 3. You want the adjustability of coilovers but have a budget around $1000. Comment: Most of the $1000 coilovers do not your reliability goal. Plenty of reviews on low end coilovers like BC Racing and Tein complaining about reliability and lack of compliance. 4. You don't like the rake of the B12 Bilstein kit (with Eibach springs). Comment: The rake is caused by the springs. You can choose different spring combinations what will change the rake and/or use spring spacers to change the rake (be careful as too big a shim (ie. >1/2") can cause preloading of the shock and early wear). Camber plates can also raise the car slightly without impacting the travel of your shocks. 5. You didn't state how much you want to lower the car. Comment Msport springs will give you 1/2' drop from stock with even rake BMW performance springs will lower your car by another 10mm or so. Swift Spec R will rap another 1/2" from BMWPS springs with even rake. http://swiftsprings.wpengine.com/pro...prings-spec-r/ Note that #5 is listed in increasing spring stiffness. Most of the springs like H&R and Eibach have more drop and more rake. Summary: Go with Bilstein B8 and Swift Spec R springs. Meets your requirement for better handling, longevity, minimal rake and your budget. |
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