LL01 Oil or LL04 oil in Australia?

[froop]

Originally Posted by DrGadget

I agree .. I did say intermediate oil changes ;-) The unofficial BMW dealer removes the plug, but uses my oil. It's a bit crazy to pay AUD350 for an oil change when I can do that and change the filter myself for about AUD100, don't you think?

Get a pair of ramps and just drive the front wheels up. That's what I do when I do my oil changes.

Also, isn't the N54 oil filter cap 16 flutes, not 14?

[BMW86]

Originally Posted by Ian///M

hardly worth changing if you leave dirty oil behind. just buy a jack and set of stands/ramps for <$200.
best to leave oil draining for 1 hour. Most dealers don't let it all drain

+ 1. I recommend draining it whilst the oil is hot/warm so it comes out faster. Just be careful when undoing the sump plug.

[Dackelone]

Even with using a vacuum pump you can't remove very much oil. Maybe 500ml if that thru the oil filter housing.

On my e39 I use a vacuum pump to change the oil from time to time. I can remove more oil that way, than with traditional draining when using a lift or jack.



As for LL01 Oil or LL04 oil in Australia? What DOES BMW Australia say to use?

I suspect an LL01 oil, since I thought only the EU has low sulfur fuels, which is why BMW AG says to use an LL04 oil over here.

ALSO... the LL01 or LL04 rating is also important for INTERNAL wear traits and not just long drain intervals. The whole reason why BMW came up with these Long Life ratings was bc they they had some serious engine failures in the US market in the early 1990's with their brand new V8's(530i and 540i). BMW traced the problem to the sulfur in the fuel and the oil types on the market place then. BMW ended up replacing those engines under a "service action" until 100K miles. The problem was the cylinder wall coating(Nikasil) has worn off bc of the oil and sulfur. THIS is why one much use a Long Life oil. Not just for long drain intervals - which we all know is silly, no one should go more than ~5K miles on an oil change.

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by froop

Get a pair of ramps and just drive the front wheels up. That's what I do when I do my oil changes.

Also, isn't the N54 oil filter cap 16 flutes, not 14?

He has a diesel dude?

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by Ian///M

hardly worth changing if you leave dirty oil behind. just buy a jack and set of stands/ramps for <$200.
best to leave oil draining for 1 hour. Most dealers don't let it all drain

I agree 100% with this comment, as the old adage goes if a jobs worth doing....

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

He has a diesel dude?

Do your diesel models have an oil dip stick?

[DrGadget]

Originally Posted by froop

Get a pair of ramps and just drive the front wheels up. That's what I do when I do my oil changes.

Also, isn't the N54 oil filter cap 16 flutes, not 14?

It's a N47S.

[DrGadget]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

Do your diesel models have an oil dip stick?

Hi Dackel: It sure does have a dipstick. One for the engine, and some might say one behind the wheel. LOL
I removed 5L exactly with the sump pump when I didn't change the filter.

[DrGadget]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

I agree 100% with this comment, as the old adage goes if a jobs worth doing....

I can't argue with this line of thought. That's what I did with other cars. I will take your advice on this one too.
Thanks.

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by DrGadget

I can't argue with this line of thought. That's what I did with other cars. I will take your advice on this one too.
Thanks.

I have seen a few online tutorial's (us based) and they use a vaccum pump and i just thought that was an odd way of removing the sump oil.

I installed a fumoto sump plug in my car, and it makes oil changes a hell of a lot easier and cleaner as you just hook a hose up to the nipple and drain into an empty oil container.

[froop]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

I have seen a few online tutorial's (us based) and they use a vaccum pump and i just thought that was an odd way of removing the sump oil.

I installed a fumoto sump plug in my car, and it makes oil changes a hell of a lot easier and cleaner as you just hook a hose up to the nipple and drain into an empty oil container.

Those tap things are cool, but the only reason I don't use one is that it means I won't be able to use my magnetic sump plug.

[froop]

Originally Posted by Ian///M

I stopped using my magnetic plug after I did my last change. Doesn't seem to really catch anything on the N54 On my bikes it catches a fair bit of sludge.

BMW dealership 'blacklisted' my warranty for fitting this at the run-in service

Yeah? I did a recent service and I definitely noticed some metal sludge residue on mine.

Maybe that's a good thing, or maybe that's a bad thing haha. Who knows

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by froop

Those tap things are cool, but the only reason I don't use one is that it means I won't be able to use my magnetic sump plug.

Hmm magnetic sump plugs in principle are a good thing its just a matter of perspective i guess. Personally i have found in previous cars using the magnetic sump plugs they collect bugger all (using high quality filters which trap finer particles) also changing the oil often in between the logbook servicing helps.

[Blauweisser]

Hi Dackelone, I enjoyed your explanation about BMW and long life oils. I understand that BMW now use hypereutectic Alusil Al-Si alloy for the engine wear surfaces, I guess to minimize corrosion problems. I have also read that Alusil hangs onto the oil better. I guess that the additive packages in the oils are formulated to cope with variations in fuel quality according to the market. Unlike Europe, Australian fuels still have relatively high sulfur contents.

Although I have read in various lubrication forums that engine flushing is an expensive extra that garages like to sell to boost profits, I'm still prepared to wear the extra $50 on top of my once a year servicing costs. I guess it's like taking vitamin pills - you hope it's doing some good. As it is, I'm changing my oil at around 12,500 km a year.

[Kabnine]

At the moment I am just using TOP TEC 4100 | 5W-40. Its an LL04. I checked with the company to make sure I could use it in my vehicle and in conjunction with Ethanol fuels. They advised me that the oil is suitable for my application.

Mind you, I am also the paranoid type, and will most likely be changing it at 5000km anyway.

[DrGadget]

Originally Posted by Kabnine

At the moment I am just using TOP TEC 4100 | 5W-40. Its an LL04. I checked with the company to make sure I could use it in my vehicle and in conjunction with Ethanol fuels. They advised me that the oil is suitable for my application.

Mind you, I am also the paranoid type, and will most likely be changing it at 5000km anyway.

+1 to the 5k oil change.

[BMW86]

Originally Posted by Kabnine

Mind you, I am also the paranoid type, and will most likely be changing it at 5000km anyway.

Paranoid I used to do always do mine every 5k. Now I'm doing mine every 3-3.5k. Running out of things to do on the car. I know it's over the top but ah well.

[Kabnine]

Originally Posted by BMW86

Paranoid I used to do always do mine every 5k. Now I'm doing mine every 3-3.5k. Running out of things to do on the car. I know it's over the top but ah well.

Lol, at $150 of oil per oil change, I just don't feed the kids that week.

I have always changed oil at or under the 5000km on every turbo charged car I have ever owned.

Actually that is a lie, the GF has a Veloster Turbo, and I just stick to the maintenance schedule for it. But I think that's because I intend to trade it just before the warranty runs out.

I just like that piece of mind knowing that the oil is clean and fresh, not thin and watery, with bits of carbon and who knows what else in it.

PS Its ok, don't call Child Services, I don't actually have children.

[Kiwi Peter]

Originally Posted by Kabnine

Lol, at $150 of oil per oil change, I just don't feed the kids that week.

I have always changed oil at or under the 5000km on every turbo charged car I have ever owned.

Actually that is a lie, the GF has a Veloster Turbo, and I just stick to the maintenance schedule for it. But I think that's because I intend to trade it just before the warranty runs out.

I just like that piece of mind knowing that the oil is clean and fresh, not thin and watery, with bits of carbon and who knows what else in it.

PS Its ok, don't call Child Services, I don't actually have children.

Good to see that some of you have a brain, 5000km is the best thing you can do especially if its modified. Forget the BMW oil service requirement and take charge of that your self. 5000km is perfect

[Blauweisser]

Although I think that oil changes at say 25,000 km are too long, it may be the case that 5,000 km changes are a bit excessive. I'm not sure you can say that modern synthetics with the sophisticated additive packages will go thin and watery after 5,000 km. They are designed for long life, and do perform very well. I guess if you're a track rat you might like to change your oil quite frequently, but for the average punter, I think you would find that there would be plenty of life left in the oil after 10,000 km.

Lubrication is a complex subject, and I've just started to learn a little. I have found the website www.bobistheoilguy.com has a lot of useful information, and this link could be a good place to start: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/.

[Kabnine]

Originally Posted by Blauweisser

Although I think that oil changes at say 25,000 km are too long, it may be the case that 5,000 km changes are a bit excessive. I'm not sure you can say that modern synthetics with the sophisticated additive packages will go thin and watery after 5,000 km. They are designed for long life, and do perform very well. I guess if you're a track rat you might like to change your oil quite frequently, but for the average punter, I think you would find that there would be plenty of life left in the oil after 10,000 km.

Lubrication is a complex subject, and I've just started to learn a little. I have found the website www.bobistheoilguy.com has a lot of useful information, and this link could be a good place to start: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/.

and technically I could probably get away with showering every second or third day, but twice a day just makes me feel better.

[DrGadget]

Originally Posted by Blauweisser

Although I think that oil changes at say 25,000 km are too long, it may be the case that 5,000 km changes are a bit excessive. I'm not sure you can say that modern synthetics with the sophisticated additive packages will go thin and watery after 5,000 km. They are designed for long life, and do perform very well. I guess if you're a track rat you might like to change your oil quite frequently, but for the average punter, I think you would find that there would be plenty of life left in the oil after 10,000 km.

Lubrication is a complex subject, and I've just started to learn a little. I have found the website www.bobistheoilguy.com has a lot of useful information, and this link could be a good place to start: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/.

Diesel engine oil gets sooty quite quickly, and with two turbos to keep fed and a particulate filter to blow the crap out of, I do a 30 min non-stop 100+ KPH run every fortnight and change the oil every 5,000 km regardless. The 123d goes like the clappers and I still get 5.5-7.2 l/100 km (country/city) ... and I just want to keep it that way. I have toyed with the idea of remapping (204BHP >> 256BHP) but reckon I'd just accumulate speeding fines or worse LOL.