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03-09-2018, 02:21 AM | #23 | ||
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Drives: 135i M-Sport
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Location: Valley of Silicon, CA - United States
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1. try the Porsche gt3rs brake ducts that connect to the control arms 2. run two naca ducts from the undertray panel up to 2-3 inch aeronautical aluminum flanges riveted to the dust shields near the center of the rotor. superr cheap and would work great copy hard motorsport basically
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03-09-2018, 12:01 PM | #24 | |
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Thats strong. Thanks for the recommendation, I can't wait to offer this solution to my mechanic. |
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03-09-2018, 12:24 PM | #25 |
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a thought hit me this morning. Buy a used trailer, and rent a truck to haul your car to the track. My wife's cousin did something similar with his 2008 135. Of course, he had to trailer it because it wasn't street legal.
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03-12-2018, 02:24 PM | #26 | |
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03-12-2018, 07:55 PM | #27 |
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Re: 135i brake problems
When building my 2008 for touring car-type racing I studied all the posts about the lack of durability when the factory Brembo brakes are fitted with competition pads and used hard. It struck me as odd that the 135i's had this problem whereas the E90 335i and M3 models did not despite the latter being equipped with the technically inferior single-piston sliding calipers. A comparison of the respective specifications led me to the conclusion that the 135's problems was likely to be largely caused by its rotors being 4mm thinner (26mm vs 30mm for the 335i/M3). I believe that the smaller air gap between the rotor faces results in a greater transfer of the heat generated when competition-type pads are used to brake harder and more frequently.
As my car is also a daily driver (front cage and race seat removed) and my racing budget is small I was reluctant to go down the after market BBK route. I was also conscious of wanting to maintain a setup that is road legal, offers relatively cheap replacement costs and avoids wheel fitment problems. To test my theory I purchased some used 335i front rotors/calipers for $US 50 per side plus freight. This is a straight bolt-on and comes with the bonus of a 10mm increase in rotor diameter to 348mm. In relation to the hydraulic side of things there is a difference of just under 5% in piston area that causes a slight increase in pedal effort but no change in pedal height. As the rear brakes do not work as hard as the fronts I fitted a set of Race Brakes stainless steel caliper pistons and their silicone seals/dust boots. In conjunction with some uprated brake fluid and a set of race pads (usually Pagid RS29) I have now been racing (not track days) hard for nearly 3 years without any performance or durability problems or supplementary aids like cooling hoses. A small improvement to be done soon will be the replacement of the rubber bushes used in the sliding calipers with brass items to reduce uneven pad wear. I should mention that the Pagids work well even in Winter lows of -7c and only get slightly noisy after a lot of road use in the 2-3 month break between race seasons. At some tracks the summer air temp reaches the low 40's c.) In summary this has proved to be a cheap solution that works well and provides easy access to either factory or after-market rotors. The only downside for some is the loss of the bling associated with the Brembo calipers compared to the dull industrial look of the 335i caliper. Last edited by bm49; 03-12-2018 at 08:18 PM.. |
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03-27-2018, 09:33 AM | #28 |
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Well, gentlemen, all of your advice has helped immensely.
The car made it to Sebring without the group buy wheels, and better tires. Still waitiing. However, the other things performed flawlessly. The rear subframe bushings fixed the handling in the rear. It is definately stiffer but not what I would consider uncomfortable, and I got the solid ones from Turner. Dinan camber plates. This is my first foray into modifying suspension for track duty. These fixed the chewing up of the outside of my tires. The car feels a little more nervous at high speeds, but seems to turn in a little better, and it's easier to keep my line. Handling wise the whole package just seems significantly more connected, albeit a little more nervous. Brakes. Still on the factory rotors. Hawk HPS Plus pads. They bite much more aggressively then stock. The do squeak a little bit though.I also added the stainless steel brake lines. Under recommendation from one of the guys here, I also bent back the heat shields as much as was possible without rubbing. Not once did I overheat them. And they never felt like they pushed beyond their capabilities. Overall the car preformed better in almost 4 hours of track time, as opposed to 1 hour of track time, before this round of mods. Sebring is a bitch of a track to learn. 17 turns and 3.7 miles long. I was used to hammering the car around PBIR, and nowing exactly what was coming up. Not here. This was my first experience in this car, where I felt like I was holding the car back, not the other way around. I was also thrown off having an instructor in the car. I haven't had anybody tell me how to drive in, shit, almost 26 years. Obviously it helped, but boy did it throw me off my game. I learned a lot, but I just could not get used to somebody talking in my ear. I missed my music, and the ability to slowly adjust my line, without input. I will go back again. Next will hopefully be the apex wheels, and a more aggressive tire. The most important thing at this point is getting out there on track more often and fixing the biggest weak point in this equation. The getting older, biological matter behind the steering wheel. |
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08-20-2018, 07:26 PM | #29 | |
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I'm not sure in my HPDE context I will deviate from stock and I'm sure I'm not maxing out stock yet anyway but I agree. |
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08-14-2019, 12:43 PM | #30 |
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I wanted to warmly thank you (and the rest of the contributors to this thread as well) for all the discussions. I recently purchased an N54 135i and am doing a similar progressive setup for occasional track day. The suggestions provided are going to be extremely helpful so I can decide what to do and in which order.
I tested the car stock two weeks ago, and left in Limp Mode of Shame, with a code P0015 on the ODB2 scanner. Something about VANOS perhaps, or maybe just the overheat everyone talks about. I'll try again tonight as it's a cooler day, and will be logging data to see. |
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