Advice on 1st to 2nd gear

[lamj01]

It's been a while since I've driven stick but I feel like I'm a decent manual driver. Has anyone noticed that it's harder to get from 1st to 2nd gear on a manual? I have noticed it's notchier to get into 2nd gear from 1st compared to the other gears. I ask because a few times now I get this horrible sound because I guess I did not push the clutch down completely and try to shift from 1st to 2nd. I had a WRX manual 4 years ago and have not driven a car since (been in NYC) and I never had this problem shifting from 1st to 2nd. Does this happen to anyone else or is this just rusty manual driving skills? Thanks.

[jibaholic101]

hmm, what is the sound? is it coming from the gearbox? is it coming from the car?

an SSK and the CDV mod might help...

[Absorber]

Originally Posted by lamj01

Has anyone noticed that it's harder to get from 1st to 2nd gear on a manual? I have noticed it's notchier to get into 2nd gear from 1st compared to the other gears. Does this happen to anyone else or is this just rusty manual driving skills? Thanks.

No, I don't think it's you. I noticed the "notchier" shift from 1st to 2nd on my extended test drive of an '09 before I ordered my '10. Jibaholic101 mentioned the CDV and I think it's that as well.

[arsenyc]

I have noticed 1-2 notchy shifts on most cars that I have driven, just need to feather the clutch and throttle and the shift will be smooth

[randomquickness]

get a modified cdv. Makes 1-2 feel like the rest of the shifts

[RPM90]

Originally Posted by lamj01

It's been a while since I've driven stick but I feel like I'm a decent manual driver. Has anyone noticed that it's harder to get from 1st to 2nd gear on a manual? I have noticed it's notchier to get into 2nd gear from 1st compared to the other gears. I ask because a few times now I get this horrible sound because I guess I did not push the clutch down completely and try to shift from 1st to 2nd. I had a WRX manual 4 years ago and have not driven a car since (been in NYC) and I never had this problem shifting from 1st to 2nd. Does this happen to anyone else or is this just rusty manual driving skills? Thanks.

Not knowing if you engaged the clutch properly leads to, it's your technique that is the problem.
Barring a mechanical issue, every shift into any gear can be smooth.
Yes, 1 to 2 and even 2 to 3 are the hardest to get smooth, or to learn to get smooth.

My CDV is intact and I don't have this issue at all.

Mechanically, the CDV does not cause a notchy shift.
Simply, the CDV is put there to slow the clutch engagement to the flywheel.
It helps to protect the clutch, and if anything, it can help to get a smoother shift during normal driving/shifting.
The CDV can get in the way, slightly, during fast and hard shifts, when you want the clutch to engage as fast as possible. But, even then, if you know how and can feel how your system works, it's really a non issue. You simply learn to compensate for it by altering your timing of the shift process.

Removing the CDV won't make you a better manual driver, and it could make your shifts harsher if you don't know what you're doing in the first place. This is a "band wagon" mod with most people doing it without understanding what the thing does in the first place.
That may sound harsh, but from comments I've read on this forum regarding the CDV, that's what I see.

The 1st to 2nd shift is always the "harshest", "notchyest", "roughest", whateverest. 1 and 2nd, and even 3rd, are low gears and multiply torque due to how gearing works. It's what helps move the car out quickly.
You feel it more because of the power being applied. 1st would be even rougher, but since we start from that gear it's not as noticeable.
But, if you've probably felt it. Start in 1st and accel briskly to around 4k, now release the throttle quickly, don't shift, now get back on the throttle quickly. Yes, it bucks. That's torque with a low gear. 2nd is less forceful, 3rd even less and so on.

Learn to modulate your clutch better during normal, not fast accel, driving.
Work, on your shift to throttle timing. You can get as smooth as an automatic, though it takes some time and effort to get there.
Barring a mechanical problem, every shift in every gear can be smooth.

[mshahidz]

I have the same problem, but its not the notchy shift, but the notchy gears!!!! GOing into second a bit quick makes this weird noise, makes me think im breaking the gearbox. However if i just almost TAP it in, it just pops right into gear perfectly. I know I am fully engaging the clutch, but the gear shifter just doesnt pop in nicely! ANybody else have this problem?

[CT135]

Originally Posted by RPM90

Not knowing if you engaged the clutch properly leads to, it's your technique that is the problem.
Barring a mechanical issue, every shift into any gear can be smooth.
Yes, 1 to 2 and even 2 to 3 are the hardest to get smooth, or to learn to get smooth.

My CDV is intact and I don't have this issue at all.

Mechanically, the CDV does not cause a notchy shift.
Simply, the CDV is put there to slow the clutch engagement to the flywheel.
It helps to protect the clutch, and if anything, it can help to get a smoother shift during normal driving/shifting.
The CDV can get in the way, slightly, during fast and hard shifts, when you want the clutch to engage as fast as possible. But, even then, if you know how and can feel how your system works, it's really a non issue. You simply learn to compensate for it by altering your timing of the shift process.

Removing the CDV won't make you a better manual driver, and it could make your shifts harsher if you don't know what you're doing in the first place. This is a "band wagon" mod with most people doing it without understanding what the thing does in the first place.
That may sound harsh, but from comments I've read on this forum regarding the CDV, that's what I see.

The 1st to 2nd shift is always the "harshest", "notchyest", "roughest", whateverest. 1 and 2nd, and even 3rd, are low gears and multiply torque due to how gearing works. It's what helps move the car out quickly.
You feel it more because of the power being applied. 1st would be even rougher, but since we start from that gear it's not as noticeable.
But, if you've probably felt it. Start in 1st and accel briskly to around 4k, now release the throttle quickly, don't shift, now get back on the throttle quickly. Yes, it bucks. That's torque with a low gear. 2nd is less forceful, 3rd even less and so on.

Learn to modulate your clutch better during normal, not fast accel, driving.
Work, on your shift to throttle timing. You can get as smooth as an automatic, though it takes some time and effort to get there.
Barring a mechanical problem, every shift in every gear can be smooth.

+1 what he said.
sometimes mine is jerky, sometimes mine is smooth ... and I know that I am the variable in the mix.

[jibaholic101]

Originally Posted by RPM90

Not knowing if you engaged the clutch properly leads to, it's your technique that is the problem.
Barring a mechanical issue, every shift into any gear can be smooth.
Yes, 1 to 2 and even 2 to 3 are the hardest to get smooth, or to learn to get smooth.

My CDV is intact and I don't have this issue at all.

Mechanically, the CDV does not cause a notchy shift.
Simply, the CDV is put there to slow the clutch engagement to the flywheel.
It helps to protect the clutch, and if anything, it can help to get a smoother shift during normal driving/shifting.
The CDV can get in the way, slightly, during fast and hard shifts, when you want the clutch to engage as fast as possible. But, even then, if you know how and can feel how your system works, it's really a non issue. You simply learn to compensate for it by altering your timing of the shift process.

Removing the CDV won't make you a better manual driver, and it could make your shifts harsher if you don't know what you're doing in the first place. This is a "band wagon" mod with most people doing it without understanding what the thing does in the first place.
That may sound harsh, but from comments I've read on this forum regarding the CDV, that's what I see.

The 1st to 2nd shift is always the "harshest", "notchyest", "roughest", whateverest. 1 and 2nd, and even 3rd, are low gears and multiply torque due to how gearing works. It's what helps move the car out quickly.
You feel it more because of the power being applied. 1st would be even rougher, but since we start from that gear it's not as noticeable.
But, if you've probably felt it. Start in 1st and accel briskly to around 4k, now release the throttle quickly, don't shift, now get back on the throttle quickly. Yes, it bucks. That's torque with a low gear. 2nd is less forceful, 3rd even less and so on.

Learn to modulate your clutch better during normal, not fast accel, driving.
Work, on your shift to throttle timing. You can get as smooth as an automatic, though it takes some time and effort to get there.
Barring a mechanical problem, every shift in every gear can be smooth.

spoken from someone who hasnt experienced the car without it. the difference is night and day

[Robert]

Unless you are going like stink, smoothly and slowly re-engaging the clutch will provide a smoother shift. How slow or how fast you can engage the clutch again is dependent on the amount gas you gave in 1st gear. From experience it really comes down to rev matching the engine to the speed the car is going at 2nd gear. The times I have felt the buckle it's because I let the clutch in too soon, the engine is 200-300rpm over the right rev. The notchiness of the throw is mechanical and there's not much you can change.

You can drive the BMW smoothly with CDV simply by taking time and adjusting your driving habit. I bought a CDV but never installed it and it looks like I may never do. I am not sure how much I bought it for. I believe it's 10-20. Willing to sell it to anyone who wants one at a meet for 5 bucks. I also have a case of synthetic BMW oil with filter never used from the dealer that'll go on sale shortly as well.

[lamj01]

thanks for all the responses. Do you guys think getting the SSK would help?

[RPM90]

Originally Posted by jibaholic101

spoken from someone who hasnt experienced the car without it. the difference is night and day

Good point.

However, I don't need it as my 135i shifts fine, so why would I do it?
Also, I know what it does.
I'm positive crap tastes bad, but I don't need to taste it to prove it to myself.

But, your point is valid, and a good got-cha.
Hey, you're the one missing and grinding gears with your fancy non-CDV.

[RPM90]

Originally Posted by Robert

You can drive the BMW smoothly with CDV simply by taking time and adjusting your driving habit. I bought a CDV but never installed it and it looks like I may never do. I am not sure how much I bought it for. I believe it's 10-20. Willing to sell it to anyone who wants one at a meet for 5 bucks. I also have a case of synthetic BMW oil with filter never used from the dealer that'll go on sale shortly as well.

Hey! Him too Jib!

How would you know Robert, that the CDV is not needed, huh, how, huh, c'mon, how, huh!?


Don't mind me, I'm just being an a$$.
But, I stand with you Robert, if it works then don't break it.

[RPM90]

Originally Posted by lamj01

thanks for all the responses. Do you guys think getting the SSK would help?

I can't answer that as I don't have one in my 135i.

But, I can say that in cars that I have drive with one, it can speed up the shift. You'll have to learn the timing there as well, as the throw will be shorter and thus quicker, so you'll have to get it right too.
Also, some SS's require more force as there is less mechanical leverage due to the shorter stick, if it indeed has a shorter stick.

I reconfigured my clutch stop, the one I made, and I tell ya my shifts are quicker and a bit smoother even. The shorter clutch push changes the timing more suited to the way I like it. I lift the throttle for less time and can get back on it quicker, so the acceleration feels more "continuous".

The OEM clutch travel has about 50% of wasted travel. There is dead space from the floor to the friction point clutch engage point. and there is dead space from the pedal fully up to the friction point to disengage the clutch. The actual function range seems to be 50% of overall travel from and to the friction point.

My clutch stop has removed nearly all the dead space from the floor to the point. I'm now thinking about a clutch stop to stop the pedal from coming so far up.

[jibaholic101]

Originally Posted by RPM90

Hey! Him too Jib!

How would you know Robert, that the CDV is not needed, huh, how, huh, c'mon, how, huh!?


Don't mind me, I'm just being an a$$.
But, I stand with you Robert, if it works then don't break it.

ordering SSK to fix that problem...