My ultimate handling machine, sublime handling

[Suhb]

Why did you go with those subframe bushings and not something like solid aluminum or M3?

[mmmusty]

Originally Posted by Suhb

Why did you go with those subframe bushings and not something like solid aluminum or M3?

OK, so I'm enthused someone is curious about these awesome bushings, and here is my reasoning.

1) M3 is still rubber, not as hard as the polyurethane ones, so I would ASSUME, even less control of the body than polyurethane ones like whittling or whatever.

2) The harder polyurethane ones apparently have MORE noise and vibration than the material that these bushings are made out of, yet they are not as HARD!

3) The cost of the other bushings were pretty much all more expensive than this material

4) Solid aluminum I would ASSUME to be too hard for my use especially, but more worrisome is the effect it can have on the subframe... so that takes solid ones out for me.

Now, all that being said, I have no experience on how they last or other long term usage stuff.

I couldnt be happier with these bushings so far, entirely changed the car.

Does this help?

[houtan]

Originally Posted by mmmusty

OK, so I'm enthused someone is curious about these awesome bushings, and here is my reasoning.

1) M3 is still rubber, not as hard as the polyurethane ones, so I would ASSUME, even less control of the body than polyurethane ones like whittling or whatever.

2) The harder polyurethane ones apparently have MORE noise and vibration than the material that these bushings are made out of, yet they are not as HARD!

3) The cost of the other bushings were pretty much all more expensive than this material

4) Solid aluminum I would ASSUME to be too hard for my use especially, but more worrisome is the effect it can have on the subframe... so that takes solid ones out for me.

Now, all that being said, I have no experience on how they last or other long term usage stuff.

I couldnt be happier with these bushings so far, entirely changed the car.

Does this help?

In addition, those bushings appear to be two piece like the whiteline bushings, which makes them very easy to install.

[mmmusty]

Originally Posted by houtan

In addition, those bushings appear to be two piece like the whiteline bushings, which makes them very easy to install.

Indeed, I still had a shop install all of the suspension though, subframe bushings are not something I wanted to wrestle with/ destroy my car over

[Suhb]

At 96k miles, my factory subframe bushings feel like jello, and that's only with the power of a 128i. I'm going to do an entire rear subframe overhaul and was thinking of throwing in solid alluminum in there. Mainly because the new M's hard mount the subframe and the idea of never servicing the bushings again appeals to me. Will solid bushings damage the subframe? Do they need servicing? They should last the life of the car, correct?

[mmmusty]

Originally Posted by Suhb

At 96k miles, my factory subframe bushings feel like jello, and that's only with the power of a 128i. I'm going to do an entire rear subframe overhaul and was thinking of throwing in solid alluminum in there. Mainly because the new M's hard mount the subframe and the idea of never servicing the bushings again appeals to me. Will solid bushings damage the subframe? Do they need servicing? They should last the life of the car, correct?

The bushings wouldn't be the issue, I presume it would be the subframe mounting points. If you do opt for that, its a good idea to reinforce the subframe some way. The e82 subframe is not an issue like the e46 was, but it still wasn't designed around that direct metal on metal... its quite literally the other end of the spectrum lol

[mmmusty]

Hey guys, so I'm looking to add a strut bar to my non-strut bar having 128i. Research and logic has lead me to the M3 Kit from HPA shop, but that is quite expensive. is there a part number for that center mount (the one that mounts to the cowl or firewall section)?

This seems to be the only different part made to fit our cars without modification , am I wrong?

Im simply trying to mitigate the cost as much as possible or get the best bang for the buck for the brace

[houtan]

Originally Posted by mmmusty

Hey guys, so I'm looking to add a strut bar to my non-strut bar having 128i. Research and logic has lead me to the M3 Kit from HPA shop, but that is quite expensive. is there a part number for that center mount (the one that mounts to the cowl or firewall section)?

This seems to be the only different part made to fit our cars without modification , am I wrong?

Im simply trying to mitigate the cost as much as possible or get the best bang for the buck for the brace

If you're willing to give up the m3 mount, you could go with the 1m bar. The aluminum mount from hpa is custom, I don't think there is an alternative.

[John_01]

I have the 1M bar on my car. The 1M bar is a direct fit on the 135i. M3 strut bar needs modification to the plastic components to make it fit, according to others who have done it.
Go for the 1M bar as it saves hassles and a few dollars, although it not exactly cheap either.

[mmmusty]

I was going that route, but it wouldn't seem to me to make that much of a difference in rigidity. That angle is the key, and yet, like you mentioned John, not looking for that hassle either...

Any other options that are actually good and inexpensive, under 300??

[houtan]

This one looks good too. But I didn't get it because it could be a hassle when running camber plates and you have to remove the strut bar. The hpa m3 or 1m bars are nice because you can remove the bar without removing the ring that attaches to the strut.

http://www.masonengineering.net/Subpages/E82.htm

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by Suhb

At 96k miles, my factory subframe bushings feel like jello, and that's only with the power of a 128i. I'm going to do an entire rear subframe overhaul and was thinking of throwing in solid alluminum in there. Mainly because the new M's hard mount the subframe and the idea of never servicing the bushings again appeals to me. Will solid bushings damage the subframe? Do they need servicing? They should last the life of the car, correct?

We just did one and they were toast. Customer complaint about the car pulling to one side with his foot on the gas and the other when his foot is off. After the installation of solid alum. bushings, the pulling was gone with some increase in NVH.

The M3 version should easily last 100K+ miles as we have not seen M3 bushings fail, at least not yet. Only time will tell on the floorpan with solid bushings. I don't think anyone has enough miles and abuse to crack it yet....anyone?

[mmmusty]

Originally Posted by houtan

This one looks good too. But I didn't get it because it could be a hassle when running camber plates and you have to remove the strut bar. The hpa m3 or 1m bars are nice because you can remove the bar without removing the ring that attaches to the strut.

http://www.masonengineering.net/Subpages/E82.htm

Thats what I'm talking about! That looks like its the most effective strut bar for the e82 I've seen thus far. Thanks Houtan

[jesh4622]

Hi mmusty,
I signed up just for you.
There is a huge delta between the tires being recommended in this thread and what you have. You don't need to spend that much.
Look into the Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 or BFGoodrich G-force Sport Comp-2 tire. They will provide fantastic grip in dry or wet conditions and not break the bank. Tread-wear is reasonable as well.

[mmmusty]

Originally Posted by jesh4622

Hi mmusty,
I signed up just for you.
There is a huge delta between the tires being recommended in this thread and what you have. You don't need to spend that much.
Look into the Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 or BFGoodrich G-force Sport Comp-2 tire. They will provide fantastic grip in dry or wet conditions and not break the bank. Tread-wear is reasonable as well.

I'm grateful man. thank you.

1. What do you mean you signed up just for me lol
2. Does delta mean change in this case or something along the lines?

[deesea]

Originally Posted by mmmusty

I'm grateful man. thank you.

1. What do you mean you signed up just for me lol
2. Does delta mean change in this case or something along the lines?

The large delta in this thread is just in reference to the price points of the tires. You're running cheap cheap chinese tires, whereas the ones being recommended are top tier summer tires.

Personally, I think a healthy balance would be the Hankook Ventus Evo 2s. Those would've been my choice if I didn't decide to go more "race-car" with my build (now looking at a set of Bridgestone RE71Rs).

How do you like the Condor Speed Shop bushings? Would you say they've increased NVH a lot?

[mmmusty]

Originally Posted by deesea

The large delta in this thread is just in reference to the price points of the tires. You're running cheap cheap chinese tires, whereas the ones being recommended are top tier summer tires.

Personally, I think a healthy balance would be the Hankook Ventus Evo 2s. Those would've been my choice if I didn't decide to go more "race-car" with my build (now looking at a set of Bridgestone RE71Rs).

How do you like the Condor Speed Shop bushings? Would you say they've increased NVH a lot?

Yes, thanks for the recommendation. How would you say the tread life is on those? I ask because i had Hancook evo before on my m3 and they lasted very little

I absolutely love the condor rsfb. I cant ttell any difference in NVH. Also note that i don't even have back seats so it would be more apparent if there was a change in NVH. Highly recommend, especially in relation to others.

[mmmusty]

Couple of insights to note now that I have been driving the car with the new suspension for some time:

1. I set the Koni shocks up too softly for the given spring rate of the BMWP springs. I didn't have any gauge to base it on other than a couple of posts I saw with recommendations from other members. Too SOFT in the back, a little too soft in the front. Koni have a weird adjustment in that they are not linear as I understand; meaning, if you turn halfway to stiff, it doesn't translate to half the stiffness of the shock, its some other ratio... guess you have to play around with it.

2. This makes the BMWP suspension seem like a great deal in fact. Koni at 600 for a great price, BMWP springs at 380 from dealer after discount made it close to $1000. BMWP suspension gives you MATED and MATCHED shocks, and anti-roll bars for what 1400 -1600?

I wasn't expecting factory option to be anywhere near as close to something like Koni regarding stiffness... I have yet to experience it personally, but I can't imaging the shocks not being mated to these springs.

[mmmusty]

PS, I got on the group buy for the Apex ARC-8 wheels and my Breyton GTS-Rs are going up for sale. Hopefully, I will also be able to update tires after you guys gave me so much shit for it

[Olgeezer1]

Congrats. on a nice setup. The "Tires are big deal " guys are right of course, but there are some choices at decent prices. I'm quite happy with the Sumitomo HTRZ3 in 225/40/18 all around.Had never heard of them, read a lot of reviews (Tire Rack and other forums) and they ride and handle great, street and even light track. Can also recommend the M3 E93 front bar and Dinan fixed front camber plates if you're still looking for things to do. Anyway, great ride. I'm thinking of the DISA/AA tune myself this spring if I'm convinced it won't be an E-test prob. and the results are worth it.

[mmmusty]

Originally Posted by Olgeezer1

Congrats. on a nice setup. The "Tires are big deal " guys are right of course, but there are some choices at decent prices. I'm quite happy with the Sumitomo HTRZ3 in 225/40/18 all around.Had never heard of them, read a lot of reviews (Tire Rack and other forums) and they ride and handle great, street and even light track. Can also recommend the M3 E93 front bar and Dinan fixed front camber plates if you're still looking for things to do. Anyway, great ride. I'm thinking of the DISA/AA tune myself this spring if I'm convinced it won't be an E-test prob. and the results are worth it.

I hear you too, I'm pretty happy with the shit ass aceleras that I have right now, they are a huge step up from the last set, and quite honestly, they're not even bad in the wet stuff... which was the only low rating it received in comparison with the higher marks when reviewed.

What makes me opt for better tires is:

1) I dont remember the last time I had a set of dope tires.
2) Cant remember a set of the cheap-o tires lasting even 20k...

leads me to believe that in the long run, I wouldn't be paying much more for better tires, when you consider mileage (assuming its better than the 17k I'm used to) and the performance and feeling of better tires.

Also, although IDK about Canadas emissions regulations, I do know about the DISA valve and tune... that shit is awesome, get it done.

[Cavpilot2k]

Originally Posted by mmmusty

Couple of insights to note now that I have been driving the car with the new suspension for some time:

1. I set the Koni shocks up too softly for the given spring rate of the BMWP springs. I didn't have any gauge to base it on other than a couple of posts I saw with recommendations from other members. Too SOFT in the back, a little too soft in the front. Koni have a weird adjustment in that they are not linear as I understand; meaning, if you turn halfway to stiff, it doesn't translate to half the stiffness of the shock, its some other ratio... guess you have to play around with it.

What did you settle on for adjustment? Can you even estimate how much you have adjusted them from "out of the box"?
I am going to get Koni yellows with BMW Perf Springs now since the BMW PS kit is no longer available, and I'm looking for a firm but still smooth daily driver/commute setting (no track).