Likely need a new battery, any suggestions for battery and coding options??

[Matticus91]

Lately my car has been pretty sensitive to use without being on, ie; cleaning the interior with lights/etc on for 10mins without the car running. I did that twice now and then the car would not start.

So I'm guessing it needs a new battery and could use some suggestions on the type of battery and how to get it coded in without blowing a ton of cash on it. Any input appreciated!

Also yes, I have searched the forums before posting this... This is one of those cases with TOO much info and not a lot of solid answers.

[ianc]

I just went to Pep Boys and popped for a Bosch AGM platinum 94R800BAGM batt listed as compat for the car. List was ~$220, but with a store coupon, I ended up paying $165. It's a little heavier than the stock Varta, but higher capacity as well, so I like it.

As for coding, you can go the easy route with carly, or there have been much more explicit postings here for using NCS and Tool32 IIRC. You'll need to register a new battery, plus code the VO if you elect to go with a different type and capacity than stock. Seek and ye shall find. Good luck!

ianc

[sixburgh]

Go the BMW store and get them to do it, the new factory battery will last 6-8 more years, like the OEM in your car did.
Do you run a battery tender on it when you are away for 2+ days? I do. I have a 2010 128i. The battery seems strong.

[mr.fabulous]

I installed a battery from the dealer and registered it myself (didn't see any benefit to screwing around with a different battery and coding).

My 6MT came factory with a lead-acid battery, not AGM. We beat this to death on this forum a few years ago... but I wonder if the 6MT cars don't have IAC (and therefore don't use an AGM battery)? I'd be interested to know what the OP has (take it out only after the car is totally asleep and shake it... a battery that sloshes is lead-acid, one that does not is AGM).

[ShocknAwe]

I'm using the OE Mini Cooper/Z4M battery. Got it from the local mini dealer for $115 before core charge. Think it lists for $145.

[JIM1inWisconsin]

When it's time for me I'll go to my local mechanic and have him install an Interstate. His supplier always rotates his stock so it's fresh, returns are
no problem, he deals with the core and he does the install. Additional cost is nominal for something you rarely have to do. I think why screw around with this yourself.

[Gray_Panther]

@bmw1racer

Use the carly app for iphone to register the battery. There is already a DIY thread on this.

Easiest method thus far!

[markslc1]

Go to interstate batteries and ask them for a "blem" of the size battery you need. These have all the specs of a regular battery but would have some kind of blemish on it. $79 and includes 18mo warranty. Super good and cheap!

[captain slowly]

based on personal experience (in the VW world), get a factory battery and have them code it. You wouldn't believe how many people use to come into the store with weird electrical issues, and half the time an original battery would solve it. Its just not worth the potential headache, and its not like its something you change that often anyway.

[Hops128i]

I bought a factory battery from getbmwparts ~$160 and use bmwlogger to register it.

[Mr Rooty Von Tooty]

I doubt you need a battery. It is simple to test it. The net has a ton of instructions just using a simple multi-meter.

If you do need one, Autozone has the correct one for around a hundred bucks. Any indy can code it for you for a couple of bucks.

[08135IFL]

With all the electronics on these things I also went with a platinum AGM battery at autozone. Swapped it in the parking lot with their tools and had my indy code it.

3 year full replacement warranty, $190 out the door.

[HomoPirate]

Get some good conventional/AGM battery from whatever you want.

Register with carly app. It's so simple.

I put Interstate lead-acid with matching spec in my 135i. It runs for a year with no problem.

The dealer found my 135i has a aftermarket/ non-OEM battery when my HPFP went out and suggest me to pay them $500 to replace an oem battery with coding. I told them go f*** yourself.

[JimD]

There is absolutely nothing special about a battery from the dealer other than it will fit and be the right amp hours for the car. If you use NCS Expert you can see what our car has by reviewing the setting. The rating BMW uses is not something advertised for batteries in the US but it can be calculated from the reserve rating. If you are willing to do a little work you can save a bunch of money.

My battery is still working fine on my 2009. I've never used a trickle charger on it and it is only driven 2-3 days a week. I think the BMW charging setup is helping the battery last. So I will use a stock size replacement and code. I will use NCS Expert if I can find my cable and buy Carly if I can't. Even buying Carly will cost less than having a dealer do it. But if you want a simple no hassle way to replace a battery and are not worried about paying a bit more, the dealer is a reasonable way to go. But for those of us with the ability and inclination to save money, this is an easy way to do it.

[bmw1racer]

Originally Posted by JimD

My battery is still working fine on my 2009. I've never used a trickle charger on it and it is only driven 2-3 days a week. I think the BMW charging setup is helping the battery last.

That's pretty amazing to hear, considering my battery died after about three years and my car is a daily driver.

Now I've taken the OCD approach and have my car on the trickle charger on a daily basis.

[Dylanize]

Wait 2013 and you need a new battery..?

Did you check the life indicator on the battery?

My 07 E92 was still strong on the original factory battery 8 years later.

[2PUTT]

dealer gave me a great price for a replacement and coding. they did it while i was getting the Dinan S2...

[markslc1]

Originally Posted by JimD

There is absolutely nothing special about a battery from the dealer other than it will fit and be the right amp hours for the car. If you use NCS Expert you can see what our car has by reviewing the setting. The rating BMW uses is not something advertised for batteries in the US but it can be calculated from the reserve rating. If you are willing to do a little work you can save a bunch of money.
.

Agreed. And if you don't want to code your car. You can get a battery with the exact same specs as then bmw brand. I found the interstate lead H7 was an exact match. I tried to code it but the settings were exactly the same. So it was plug n play on my 128

[Matticus91]

Originally Posted by markslc1

Agreed. And if you don't want to code your car. You can get a battery with the exact same specs as then bmw brand. I found the interstate lead H7 was an exact match. I tried to code it but the settings were exactly the same. So it was plug n play on my 128

You still need to tell the system a new battery is in right?

[Matticus91]

Ok so this time the car would not start but I checked the gauge on the battery itself and it was green for "sufficiently charged". I hooked up my fiance's car and was able to jump it without an issue.

Any thoughts on this? Seems odd that the battery would say it's charged but not be able to start the car. Also I haven't noticed any issues once it's running so I don't think it's the alternator or other similar issue.

[Dylanize]

Originally Posted by Matticus91

Ok so this time the car would not start but I checked the gauge on the battery itself and it was green for "sufficiently charged". I hooked up my fiance's car and was able to jump it without an issue.

Any thoughts on this? Seems odd that the battery would say it's charged but not be able to start the car. Also I haven't noticed any issues once it's running so I don't think it's the alternator or other similar issue.

Hmm, That's what I'm saying, I find it hard to believe your battery is already shot. Could be an issue with the IBS(Intelligent Battery Sensor) AKA the big box thingy on top of your battery.

Have you scanned for any fault codes?

[Matticus91]

Originally Posted by Dylanize

Hmm, That's what I'm saying, I find it hard to believe your battery is already shot. Could be an issue with the IBS(Intelligent Battery Sensor) AKA the big box thingy on top of your battery.

Have you scanned for any fault codes?

Haven't scanned yet but will this weekend, I got a couple warnings on the dash while trying to start it but I think that's most likely just the system hitting unexpected voltages and getting confused. One was for ABS and the other was for increased battery discharge while stopped. The increased battery discharge one showed up only once a week ago, has not shown since so I don't think that's relevant.