Alpina B3 flash - tranny clunky

[OzJustin]

Hi guys, keen to get the thoughts of the more experienced members of the forum.

Long story short I have a 2008 135i steptronic and had the Alpina B3 transmission flash (older version I believe) performed about 12 months ago.

The car has been good over this time however I've noticed since I had the transmission fluid drained (using Liquimoly ATF Toptec 1800 oil (BMW M-1375.4 approved)) a few months back that the car has been very clunky/jerky/lurchy when changing gears at times. This is in all modes (D, S and M) and generally only noticeable during upshifts at low throttle, especially going into 4th gear. To my memory it was much smoother previously.

I have also had the engine and transmission adaptations reset by my local BMW specialist mechanic a few months back. This seemed to help briefly but I am still noticing the clunky 3rd and 4th upshifts sometimes. It seems to disappear after a few minutes of driving to warm up the tranny fluid.

I drive the car like a granny generally and would be surprised if it was a slipping tranny at light throttle (I'm tuned at 250rwkw). Any ideas what it might be? Could there be slightly insufficient tranny fluid ie expands once warm and symptoms go away? I haven't read of any other Alpina flash users with lurchy upshifts so I'm lost.

[martymil]

Get rid of the alpine flash and get the latest bmw flash its far better and quicker shifts

[OzJustin]

Originally Posted by martymil

Get rid of the alpine flash and get the latest bmw flash its far better and quicker shifts

Is it the BMW US Sport flash you're referring to?

I actually really like the Alpina flash apart from the recent lurchy upshifts which I'm not sure are flash related anyway.

[martymil]

The latest from bmw is the bmw US sport I believe, its far better than alpina.

I had both, I'm talking about sports mode here.

its hard to explain but once you try it you'll never go back

[Dackelone]

Well.... since you noticed a change since the trans service... I would try a different trans oil. I have read that some ATF oils perform better in the ZF trans than others. When I had my ZF trans in my e39 serviced... the shop I took it too would only use ZF fluid. They said in their experience that other fluids cause issues over time.

Here is a good place to order a A/T service kit...
http://www.thectsc.com/catalog/6-speed-bmw-61.html

Its also possible that your trans is low on fluid too. Its very hard to get the trans fluid to the proper level.


Dackel

[dh58]

Marty where can we get that flashed or downloaded?

[martymil]

Advan using their autologic

[trebila]

Can Justin share the ZB number of this TCU flash?

US sport is ZB 7601494.

I used to have the latest TCU flash on my 135i AT, flashed by my BMW dealer 2 years ago, the ZB number is ZB 7603527 ( BMW 2011 trans flash).
according to the ZB number revision, the 2011 trans flash is newer that US sport one, but I could be wrong.
D mode is better with ZB 7603527 ( BMW 2011 trans flash), but upshift in S and M mode are slighty slower than with Alpina Flashs.

only way to know is reading the actual zb number of the TCU with autologic.

[martymil]

From memory the number is newer than that,

The most current one available is the best for smoother and faster shifts

We have been doing a lot of r&d with you David and this box in the last few weeks.

You loose the display like s1 and all that but what would you rather smoother faster shifts
Or some silly gimmic on the display ?

[martymil]

I'll get the number for you when we do the flash this afternoon

[trebila]

Thanks, Marty

[vtl]

This info came up on e90post in the australian section a couple weeks ago:

ZB 7601492 (Stock Flash)


ZB 7603527 (BMW 2011 Flash)
- No gear indicator
- D shift rpm raised slightly ~1800-2000
- Downshift rev match not like Alpina but better then others
- 6800rpm shift point


ZB 7615835 (Original Alpina B3 Flash)
- Gear indicator (D1, S1)
- D shift rpm relatively low ~1500-1800
- S mode shift rpm 2800-3000
- Great rev match downshifting
- 7000rpm shift


ZB 7603537 (New Alpina B3 Flash)
- Same as 7615835 except:
- Smoother
- Slightly higher RPM D mode upshifts ~3300-3500


ZB 7603541 (Euro Sport Flash)
- No gear indicator in Drive, M/S still have it i.e. S1...S6 / M1...M6
- D drives just like the stock
- S a bit more aggressive than stock


ZB 7601494 (US Sport Flash)
- No gear indicator in Drive, M/S still have it i.e. S1...S6 / M1...M6
- D feels stock
- S stays in gear longer than the B3, Shifts at ~3300-3500
-M is more impressive than the B3 at shifts

If anyone in Melb needs help flashing I have the setup at home to do it.

[trebila]

thanks for the info, maybe Marty's TCU flash is another one, we'll see tomorrow

[OzJustin]

Thanks for all the ZB numbers guys. I'm pretty sure I'm running the original Alpina flash (Wedge performed for me). I suppose I could try the US sport and BMW 2011 flashes to see if they rectify my lurchiness.

Is there a way to code in the 1-6 gear display regardless of which flash is installed? I would really like to keep that feature that Alpina provides.

[trebila]

it's obviously coded in the TCU flash, so I'd say no if you choose something else than alpina trans flash.
but for euro and US sport ones, you'll keep the gear indicator in S and M.

[froop]

I'd go with Dack and say that if you noticed the poor performance after the fluid change then you really need to look into that.

I haven't updated my TCU software but at about 90,000kms I noticed a quite severe clunking when pulling away with a cold tranny from 1-2-3. It felt like it went into neutral before banging into gear as the revs raised. Also when I went from drive to reverse and the was still rolling a bit it would do the same thing.

I changed my pan and my fluid using ZF fluid and it's been golden since. The fluid that was drained was almost the cosistency of water and a quite murky dark brown colour compared to the thicker golden colour of new fluid. I'm probably due in for another fluid flush since I'm at 166,000kms now but it's definitely not clunky.

I wrote up a DIY in the DIY section on this site.

[martymil]

I could not get the number but here is a video, listen to the gear changes

[OzJustin]

Originally Posted by froop

I'd go with Dack and say that if you noticed the poor performance after the fluid change then you really need to look into that.

I haven't updated my TCU software but at about 90,000kms I noticed a quite severe clunking when pulling away with a cold tranny from 1-2-3. It felt like it went into neutral before banging into gear as the revs raised. Also when I went from drive to reverse and the was still rolling a bit it would do the same thing.

I changed my pan and my fluid using ZF fluid and it's been golden since. The fluid that was drained was almost the cosistency of water and a quite murky dark brown colour compared to the thicker golden colour of new fluid. I'm probably due in for another fluid flush since I'm at 166,000kms now but it's definitely not clunky.

I wrote up a DIY in the DIY section on this site.

Thanks froop. I've read your DIY - very handy!

Did you really fill with 9L of new oil including the torque converter? I had the sump pan & filler plug replaced when I had my fluid changed (only 70.000km on mine) but the mechanic said it was difficult & could only replace about 4L. I thought it was a bit odd given your DIY says 9L but they're a reputable workshop so didn't question. It cost me $500 so I'd be a little pissed having to do it all again with 9L of new ZF fluid. Can I reuse my new sump pan & where is the cheapest place to source ZF fluid locally?

My tranny generally only exhibits the symptoms when cold & 1st & 2nd seem ok. I have noticed the minor reverse clunk occassionally though. It's generally very smooth after a few minutes to warm up. Driving it on a saturday morning after it sitting for the week is when I notice it most.

Perhaps I try the Sport and 2011 flashes first before forking out for another fluid change..

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by OzJustin

Thanks froop. I've read your DIY - very handy!

Did you really fill with 9L of new oil including the torque converter? I had the sump pan & filler plug replaced when I had my fluid changed (only 70.000km on mine) but the mechanic said it was difficult & could only replace about 4L. I thought it was a bit odd given your DIY says 9L but they're a reputable workshop so didn't question. It cost me $500 so I'd be a little pissed having to do it all again with 9L of new ZF fluid. Can I reuse my new sump pan & where is the cheapest place to source ZF fluid locally?

My tranny generally only exhibits the symptoms when cold & 1st & 2nd seem ok. I have noticed the minor reverse clunk occassionally though. It's generally very smooth after a few minutes to warm up. Driving it on a saturday morning after it sitting for the week is when I notice it most.

Perhaps I try the Sport and 2011 flashes first before forking out for another fluid change..

I believe the trans holds 7l with the torque converter holding 2l

When I changed the A/T fluid on my e39... I also could only get about 4l or 5l's out of it - when changing the ATF valve body filter. I subsequently change the ATF three more times until the fluid looked red(the color or the new fluid I was using) instead of the brown/black of the old fluid in the trans. It took a few oil changes. Even so... I always had some cold start issues with the trans shifting cold. Once hot it was fine. Later I had an indi shop also change the trans fluid... and they took off the front trans oil cooler lines, and changed the fluid WITH the engine running. That way the trans pumps out the old fluid and it sucks in the new fluid. Some shops have machines that do this too. Now my e39's trans shifts perfectly!

Good Luck.

[Prolifik]

Hey vtl, what equipment is needed to flash to the transmission and where are you getting the maps?

[vtl]

You need the BMW Standard tools software (which includes the flashing program WinKFP). If you have up to date data files it includes all the files needed to flash any of the mentioned flashes. Theres a guide on e90post on how to install and where to get the files.

You also need a K+DCAN cable off ebay. I only paid around $20 for mine.

If you want to be safe you may also want to hook up your car to a battery charger while flashing.

[thezone135i]

Originally Posted by vtl

You need the BMW Standard tools software (which includes the flashing program WinKFP). If you have up to date data files it includes all the files needed to flash any of the mentioned flashes. Theres a guide on e90post on how to install and where to get the files.

You also need a K+DCAN cable off ebay. I only paid around $20 for mine.

If you want to be safe you may also want to hook up your car to a battery charger while flashing.

Hey Vincent, which of those flashes do I have? All is great except D mode is awful. My fuel economy has gotten worse with it changing so early and S is still too aggressive for passive driving. Manual is great but sometimes you just want to use D.

Maybe I should come and pay you another visit!