Problems after walnut blasting...

[thewubwub]

Brought my car in to get walnut blasted yesterday morning, and now the car is running worse than ever.

After waiting a whole day for the blasting to finish... (shop apparently had projects to finish and put mine on hold) I finally picked up my car and was excited to drive it. Start it up, instantly the idle starts bouncing up and down, un-driveable. Mechanic hears the idle and tells me to restart the car, and the idle problem went away. I saw the SES light on, but the car sounded fine so I proceeded to have a quick test drive, but when i applied more throttle, the car has absolutely 0 boost.

Now I'm worried I pull over and plug in my Android device with MHD and see the codes attached to this post. I drive it back to the shop and the mechanic pops the hood looks around one of the connections wasn't tight apparently, I'm not sure what it was but he hooks it back up, i clear codes, go for a test drive, and the result is the same, no boost.

Mechanic takes everything apart again to have a look around the engine bay, said everything looks like how it should, and he asks to reset adaptations and have a map rewrite using MHD. No dice. Upon start up the bouncing idle starts again and the problem is not solved...:cry:

My car is still at the shop right now.

Thoughts or comments appreciated.

[Dackelone]

Maybe they did not use walnuts for the abrasive but something more solid that could have bent a valve ?

[Joe@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by thewubwub

Brought my car in to get walnut blasted yesterday morning, and now the car is running worse than ever.

After waiting a whole day for the blasting to finish... (shop apparently had projects to finish and put mine on hold) I finally picked up my car and was excited to drive it. Start it up, instantly the idle starts bouncing up and down, un-driveable. Mechanic hears the idle and tells me to restart the car, and the idle problem went away. I saw the SES light on, but the car sounded fine so I proceeded to have a quick test drive, but when i applied more throttle, the car has absolutely 0 boost.

Now I'm worried I pull over and plug in my Android device with MHD and see the codes attached to this post. I drive it back to the shop and the mechanic pops the hood looks around one of the connections wasn't tight apparently, I'm not sure what it was but he hooks it back up, i clear codes, go for a test drive, and the result is the same, no boost.

Mechanic takes everything apart again to have a look around the engine bay, said everything looks like how it should, and he asks to reset adaptations and have a map rewrite using MHD. No dice. Upon start up the bouncing idle starts again and the problem is not solved...

My car is still at the shop right now.

Thoughts or comments appreciated.

My guess is they didn't connect all of the sensors. I would check (or have them) all the sensors are connected on/around the charge pipe. Mainly the main connector for the box that's directly under the charge pipe. I've seen this happen before.

[1and1]

bouncing idle can often be symptomatic of a large vacuum leak, and if significant enough create the feel of no boost.

Should be pretty easy to spot by logging with your MHD setup and checking your trims for example.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by thewubwub

Brought my car in to get walnut blasted yesterday morning, and now the car is running worse than ever.

After waiting a whole day for the blasting to finish... (shop apparently had projects to finish and put mine on hold) I finally picked up my car and was excited to drive it. Start it up, instantly the idle starts bouncing up and down, un-driveable. Mechanic hears the idle and tells me to restart the car, and the idle problem went away. I saw the SES light on, but the car sounded fine so I proceeded to have a quick test drive, but when i applied more throttle, the car has absolutely 0 boost.

Now I'm worried I pull over and plug in my Android device with MHD and see the codes attached to this post. I drive it back to the shop and the mechanic pops the hood looks around one of the connections wasn't tight apparently, I'm not sure what it was but he hooks it back up, i clear codes, go for a test drive, and the result is the same, no boost.

Mechanic takes everything apart again to have a look around the engine bay, said everything looks like how it should, and he asks to reset adaptations and have a map rewrite using MHD. No dice. Upon start up the bouncing idle starts again and the problem is not solved...

My car is still at the shop right now.

Thoughts or comments appreciated.

Bouncing idle is a direct result of the rest of adaptations.

Specifically the the throttle adaptation reset, more times then not it should be avoided.

Just reset adaptations with the vehicle ON, Engine OFF.

After adaptations are complete, let the vehicle stand OFF for atleast 3 minutes.

This should allow enough time for the DME to go to sleep and then you can re-start and all should be well.

If it persists after, you may need to keep resetting until it stop but the key to the equation is to let it sit after you reset.

[thewubwub]

Originally Posted by Joe@TopGearSolutions

My guess is they didn't connect all of the sensors. I would check (or have them) all the sensors are connected on/around the charge pipe. Mainly the main connector for the box that's directly under the charge pipe. I've seen this happen before.

Originally Posted by 1and1

bouncing idle can often be symptomatic of a large vacuum leak, and if significant enough create the feel of no boost.

Should be pretty easy to spot by logging with your MHD setup and checking your trims for example.

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

Bouncing idle is a direct result of the rest of adaptations.

Specifically the the throttle adaptation reset, more times then not it should be avoided.

Just reset adaptations with the vehicle ON, Engine OFF.

After adaptations are complete, let the vehicle stand OFF for atleast 3 minutes.

This should allow enough time for the DME to go to sleep and then you can re-start and all should be well.

If it persists after, you may need to keep resetting until it stop but the key to the equation is to let it sit after you reset.

Thanks for all the input guys! I really appreciate the tips, and I definitely hope the shop knows everything mentioned here and if not I'll bring it to their attention.

[dsocold]

check too see that your vacuum lines arent leaking air on the left side of the motor right by the dv connection like mine was, also check around the oil filter hosing there's vacuum lines there as well and they could have pinched one when putting the engine cover on

[chadillac2000]

I'd definitely go back and see if you can see any sensors that were left unplugged.

And yet another reason to do your own maintenance/repair/upgrade work.

[Joe@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by thewubwub

Thanks for all the input guys! I really appreciate the tips, and I definitely hope the shop knows everything mentioned here and if not I'll bring it to their attention.

I meant to reference the box behind the intake manifold not the CP. There is also a sensor that's down below the starter that's not meant to be uplugged for the blast, but due to it's location and ease of disconnecting, it comes disconnected without knowing.

[Gangplank]

What codes is it throwing?

[thewubwub]

Turns out it was one of the connections closer towards the front of the engine block. The sensor was plugged in but not all the way in which was causing it to throw the errors. I don't have a picture of it at hand, but the sensor was next to the oil filter cap.

Plugged it in an now the car is running the way it should be!! Crisis averted

[chadillac2000]

Originally Posted by thewubwub

Turns out it was one of the connections closer towards the front of the engine block. The sensor was plugged in but not all the way in which was causing it to throw the errors. I don't have a picture of it at hand, but the sensor was next to the oil filter cap.

Plugged it in an now the car is running the way it should be!! Crisis averted

Glad it was something easy like that. I too have left that one unplugged after a walnut blast and started the car up.

[Joe@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by thewubwub

Turns out it was one of the connections closer towards the front of the engine block. The sensor was plugged in but not all the way in which was causing it to throw the errors. I don't have a picture of it at hand, but the sensor was next to the oil filter cap.

Plugged it in an now the car is running the way it should be!! Crisis averted

I'd bill them for 1 hour of labor, lol. Glad you got it sorted...

[1and1]

Originally Posted by thewubwub

Turns out it was one of the connections closer towards the front of the engine block. The sensor was plugged in but not all the way in which was causing it to throw the errors. I don't have a picture of it at hand, but the sensor was next to the oil filter cap.

Glad to hear it was just a sensor connection- hate that they didn't see it during the first review!

So, noob question- What sensor was that, and if not painfully obvious why would it cause a fluctuating idle and loss of boost?

I was thinking vac leak bad enough to become a boost leak, maybe from one of the intake gaskets or something else in line from the turbo to the intake valves...

Somebody lay some knowledge on me!

[thewubwub]

Originally Posted by chadillac2000

Glad it was something easy like that. I too have left that one unplugged after a walnut blast and started the car up.

You have no idea the relief that went through my body when it was such a simple fix!

Originally Posted by Joe@TopGearSolutions

I'd bill them for 1 hour of labor, lol. Glad you got it sorted...

I know right? I was actually getting quite frustrated with them at one point because of how this situation being handled, but I just kept my cool.

Originally Posted by 1and1

Glad to hear it was just a sensor connection- hate that they didn't see it during the first review!

So, noob question- What sensor was that, and if not painfully obvious why would it cause a fluctuating idle and loss of boost?

I was thinking vac leak bad enough to become a boost leak, maybe from one of the intake gaskets or something else in line from the turbo to the intake valves...

Somebody lay some knowledge on me!

I wish I had a picture of the actual connector... It was somewhere underneath the intake duct and somewhere around the oil filter area.

[Bullitt]

Originally Posted by thewubwub

I wish I had a picture of the actual connector... It was somewhere underneath the intake duct and somewhere around the oil filter area.

The only connector I can think of near the oil filter area that's removed for walnut blasting is the oil pressure sensor which is in front of the stock airbox.

Anyway very good to hear it was such a simple fix!