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      04-17-2014, 02:05 AM   #1
kobeballer96
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N52 before and after nitrous dyno

We'll there you have it solid proof it can be done and make god numbers! I can't wait for my kit! Already started looking for clutch and flywheel combos too. UUC sells a clutch upgrade for our 6MT trans misson and turner motor sports sells the lightweight flywheel.
If you have negative comments don't bother posting unless you have useful helpful information.

Thanks

Anyways here are the dyno numbers.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=969616
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      04-17-2014, 05:32 AM   #2
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Nothing about the NOS, UUC is the last company you want to buy anything from, especially a clutch.
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      04-17-2014, 09:45 AM   #3
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Interesting. NOS (+ headers and tune) =turbo, essentially. But would still have the character of a NA engine.
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      04-17-2014, 02:01 PM   #4
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"You're lucky that hundred shot of NOS didn't blow the welds on the intake!"
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      04-17-2014, 02:22 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkkyyMan View Post
"You're lucky that hundred shot of NOS didn't blow the welds on the intake!"
From my experience, it usually just blows the diamond plate floor panels off.
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      04-17-2014, 02:33 PM   #6
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From my experience, it usually just blows the diamond plate floor panels off.
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      04-17-2014, 02:35 PM   #7
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Warning: Danger to manifold!!!

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      04-21-2014, 09:48 AM   #8
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      04-21-2014, 03:02 PM   #9
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This is all useful/helpful information right?




I remember reading your thinking about going with a wet shot, which is the only way to go in my opinion. What size of shot? Progressive nitrous?

Are you going for a specific hp? Track time? What is overall goal?
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      04-21-2014, 03:17 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkkyyMan View Post
This is all useful/helpful information right?




I remember reading your thinking about going with a wet shot, which is the only way to go in my opinion. What size of shot? Progressive nitrous?

Are you going for a specific hp? Track time? What is overall goal?
Yes I am, but not until I move to the states in august. I'm picking up a nitrous kit from holly. Going to go with 75 shot wet shot first and ramp up depending on how fuel delivery goes. I don't think progress will be needed unless there is not traction at all lol. Goal is just to have a fun rolling run car. I can see 350tq and 300 hp with some weight reduction in this car hitting high 12s with the right traction setup. I looked into clutches aswell. Clutch masters makes kits for our cars to Handle more power.
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      04-21-2014, 03:20 PM   #11
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I will be stunned if the trans/diff/halfshafts live through this.
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      04-21-2014, 03:29 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSt|G View Post
I will be stunned if the trans/diff/halfshafts live through this.
Shouldn't be a whole lot of stress on rolling runs. But anyways we will see lol only one way to find out. Is there any threads of people with 128i drivetrain failure on stock power or with bolt ons and tune?
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      04-21-2014, 03:54 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kobeballer96 View Post
Shouldn't be a whole lot of stress on rolling runs. But anyways we will see lol only one way to find out. Is there any threads of people with 128i drivetrain failure on stock power or with bolt ons and tune?
There is a massive difference between the 20-30 ft/lbs of torque most of us have picked up and the 150 ft/lbs of torque increase you are proposing. Put another way, more torque than a E9x M3. Do you see much in the way of similarity of drivetrain component strength between the two?
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      04-21-2014, 09:43 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSt|G View Post
There is a massive difference between the 20-30 ft/lbs of torque most of us have picked up and the 150 ft/lbs of torque increase you are proposing. Put another way, more torque than a E9x M3. Do you see much in the way of similarity of drivetrain component strength between the two?
That's any car STIG. If bmw is that shitty we will find out. My base dyno on my Mazdaspeed was 240whp 270tq, after said in done with bolt ons and meth and e85 354whp 412tq it was fine for a while like 40k miles until I needed a need clutch. I need that's not a very good comparison but only one way to fine out.
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      04-22-2014, 03:20 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSt|G View Post
I will be stunned if the trans/diff/halfshafts live through this.
why?

trans would be able to handle WAY more

diff is the same as 135i 6AT

halfshafts the same as 135i*

the only worry with the trans would be the clutch. internally it's likely similar to the 53bz.
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      04-22-2014, 06:47 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flinchy View Post
why?

trans would be able to handle WAY more

diff is the same as 135i 6AT

halfshafts the same as 135i*

the only worry with the trans would be the clutch. internally it's likely similar to the 53bz.
BMW has an entirely different trans they use for the 330i/130i for the different power levels.

Auto 135i diff is unrelated as the auto smooths inputs via the torque converter. Plus the auto owner is a different type of driver.

Halfshafts are not the same part between the 128i and 135i.

I've been considering ways to beef up the internals for DISA/header power levels , let alone that much more torque. And don't post "facts" if you haven't checked them first.
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      04-22-2014, 10:18 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSt|G View Post
I will be stunned if the trans/diff/halfshafts live through this.
They won’t….100% alu block, this is just asking to melt something. Transmission may or may not hold I’m not familiar enough with it.

Just my personal opinion, but I wouldn’t touch anything more than a 50-75 wet shot on the 52. Hell on the 54 as well. Even then I wouldn’t feel comfortable spraying in a situation where I couldn’t be 110% focused on a wideband gauge, which I guarantee these folks are not doing.
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      04-22-2014, 10:34 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 135Pats View Post
They won’t….100% alu block, this is just asking to melt something. Transmission may or may not hold I’m not familiar enough with it.

Just my personal opinion, but I wouldn’t touch anything more than a 50-75 wet shot on the 52. Hell on the 54 as well. Even then I wouldn’t feel comfortable spraying in a situation where I couldn’t be 110% focused on a wideband gauge, which I guarantee these folks are not doing.
Alu and mag(which is softer still).

And yes, the entire project in the N52 e90 section reeks of half-assed.
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      04-22-2014, 11:31 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSt|G View Post

And yes, the entire project in the N52 e90 section reeks of half-assed.
I heard mechanic kittah was not involved, so what can you expect..
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      04-22-2014, 04:43 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSt|G View Post
BMW has an entirely different trans they use for the 330i/130i for the different power levels.

Auto 135i diff is unrelated as the auto smooths inputs via the torque converter. Plus the auto owner is a different type of driver.

Halfshafts are not the same part between the 128i and 135i.

I've been considering ways to beef up the internals for DISA/header power levels , let alone that much more torque. And don't post "facts" if you haven't checked them first.
ahh my bad, 128i uses 17bz.. still, the 135i trans is only rated to ~390 ft-lb and they've made about 650 with no worries.

I'm not sure what the 17bz is rated to... normally the 17 would mean '170 newton meters' but the 128i makes more than that stock hah..

and yeah sorry you're right on the driveshafts... but still, they're LK=86MM/D=38MM which is the same as 135i

so... I can almost guarantee the halfshafts won't break unless you get mental wheel hop, and the transmission i'd hope isn't made of glass!


I take it you mean internals of the trans, not the motor?

And auto drivers being different i don't quite understand - most of the fastest 1/3 series BMW's are autos haha.. plus, the 6mt's smooth input to the diff through clutch slip :P

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSt|G View Post
Alu and mag(which is softer still).

And yes, the entire project in the N52 e90 section reeks of half-assed.
alusil cylinder liners are actually really tough.. the motor isn't as weak as everyone thinks imo, i'd say it could handle 5-10psi without issue.. and it's alu-mag alloy/alu alloy depending which part of the motor it is, so again not soft at all.

speculating on rod strength, but the shape should mean they're quite strong for the weight.

the pistons are likely similar to N54, hypereutectic aluminium (specs list N52 as alu, N54 is confirmed to be hypereutectic aluminium)

i mean.. there's people with 3.2 stroker and S54 ITB swaps making 330-350whp ffs...

Last edited by flinchy; 04-22-2014 at 04:58 PM..
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      04-22-2014, 07:42 PM   #21
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I am very unlikely to do nitrous but not because I think the motor can't handle it. I suspect the motor will be fine for the same reason there is a brief overboost in the n54. For a short period of time, the temperature will not go too high and the motor survives. Constant nitrous would be different but the bottle won't last very long and usually it is a "foot on the floor" activation.

An aluminum block does not mean a weak motor. Corvette engines have had an aluminum block for a long time. There are boosted versions with huge power. It has a iron cylinder liner but the liner doesn't help temperatures. It is more rugged with less lubrication but the aluminum cylinder should actually run cooler. The junction of the iron liner to the aluminum block impedes heat transfer and makes the engine run hotter. The n54 is an aluminum block too (with an iron liner).

Nitrous is a relatively crude way to boost power, good for short bursts, but if it makes a n52 approximately equal a n54 in power and it makes people happy, I don't see any problem with it. I think it would be fun to surprise somebody. Maybe I will consider it.
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      04-22-2014, 08:29 PM   #22
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Is the n54 a liner or cast iron sleeve?
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