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      11-23-2013, 04:18 PM   #89
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Originally Posted by Derk1127 View Post
I just installed the nolathane bushing kit in my car. Looks exactly like the whiteline kit and the best thing is I was able to get it shipped with a rear diff bushing kit for under 170...
Did you install the diff bushing kit, and if so, how do you like it, and how hard was it to press out the OE diff bushings?
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      12-06-2013, 03:07 PM   #90
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Polish Poly subframe bush? Under $45 a corner in 80A 90A? About $150 ish/set for 90A. The bushings appear to be 2 peace like Prothane

Last I checked shipping about $30
I guess its true - StongFlex, offer other stuff cheap too,including differential bushings:
http://www.strongflex.eu/en/34-bmw-e82-04
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128i Sport 6MT converted to Euro 130i spec, tuned by evolve ~220 whp 207 wtq(ft-lb) SAE
In-progress: n54 ssk, m3 trans mnt, e36M lip Wishlist: m3 susp, n55 eng mnt, headers, LSD, finn dif e60


"The 1-series is the last car that BMW engineered before the Germans, as a car-making culture, fell out of love with driving." - R&T 2013 135is

Last edited by andrey_gta; 12-10-2013 at 09:43 AM.
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      12-10-2013, 02:41 AM   #91
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Originally Posted by andrey_gta View Post
I think hes happy with them, they solved the vibration problem. They are not as stiff as the AKG he gave up.

I'm glad to hear that the bushes solve that itch to do something since this could be one of the last mods for me in late 2013
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Originally Posted by andrey_gta View Post
Polish Poly subframe bush? Under $45 a corner in 80A 90A? About $150 ish/set for 90A. Last I checked shipping about $30
I guess its true - StongFlex, offer other stuff cheap too:
http://www.strongflex.eu/en/34-bmw-e82-04

You still haven't gotten this done? News flash...it is now officially "late 2013"
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      12-10-2013, 06:12 AM   #92
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I know, late to the party
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In-progress: n54 ssk, m3 trans mnt, e36M lip Wishlist: m3 susp, n55 eng mnt, headers, LSD, finn dif e60


"The 1-series is the last car that BMW engineered before the Germans, as a car-making culture, fell out of love with driving." - R&T 2013 135is
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      12-10-2013, 08:52 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrey_gta View Post
I know, late to the party
It's okay. I'm still trying to weigh my options on the M3 subframe bushings or prothane bushings... I'm probably going to go prothane since the install will be much easier, but I'm unsure of the NVH associated with them. SteveAZ, any NVH increases since you installed them?
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      12-10-2013, 09:38 AM   #94
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Dont think SteveAZ mentioned any NVH

NVH in my research (across e9x M3 and e9x forums and here) been mentioned only a few times with the following:
All alum diff bushings or derlin diff bushings when combined with a derlin or alum Subframe bushing.
Therefore, as long as you stick with M3 diff bushings or similar as alt for our OEM you should be noise free when you go with non-derlin/alum subframe bushings. Also,M3 forums mentioned no NVH with Alum subframe and their oem m3 diff bush, but HPA and AKG and Turner do not recommend this for mainly street driven cars

Also Powerflex offering 95A subframe bushings for 1m and not warning about substantial NVH increases on their website is another evidence.

About Strongflex, their bushings look two-piece like Whiteline/Prothane/Nolathane just come at 90A at a similar price.
I emailed them about shipping, their website vs their ebay is a big difference.

Oh and Nolathane ,if you can find them, are usually the lowest price
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128i Sport 6MT converted to Euro 130i spec, tuned by evolve ~220 whp 207 wtq(ft-lb) SAE
In-progress: n54 ssk, m3 trans mnt, e36M lip Wishlist: m3 susp, n55 eng mnt, headers, LSD, finn dif e60


"The 1-series is the last car that BMW engineered before the Germans, as a car-making culture, fell out of love with driving." - R&T 2013 135is

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      12-10-2013, 06:16 PM   #95
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I didn't notice any NVH difference after installing mine. The nolathane install is pretty easy. No disconnecting of brakelines, exhaust, or rear struts.
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      12-11-2013, 05:32 AM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idnan View Post
Guys I've got the red AKG bushes and done approx 200miles on them but with solid TMS diff mounts, the diff whine is far too much for my liking. I'm actually fine with the ride on these bushes and AST4100s, it is just the whine about 40mph. I've just ordered a set of these Whiteline bushes over the Powerflex ones as i have heard too many bad reviews of the latter.

If anyone is willing to cover shipping to the USA then you're free to have them. Perfect for a track car or use with softer diff bushes.
I recalled this in regards to NVH but haven't really heard of any other complaints from anybody replacing bushings other than using the inserts. After removing the stock ones and looking them over...I personally wouldn't waste my time with those as the 2 piece ones are just about as easy to do...you're only saving maybe 10% of the work/time...pointless IMO.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pj.rodriguez View Post
It's okay. I'm still trying to weigh my options on the M3 subframe bushings or prothane bushings... I'm probably going to go prothane since the install will be much easier, but I'm unsure of the NVH associated with them. SteveAZ, any NVH increases since you installed them?
In regards to my car....I wouldn't say the bushings added any...I do think they may have broken in a bit after a few hundred miles...really hard to be subjective and conclusive on this. The car handles fine..still happy with it.

My biggest issues have been with power management...LSD is supposed to arrive next week but probably own't get that in until after the 1st of the year as it gets the remaining M bits at that time as well.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Derk1127 View Post
I didn't notice any NVH difference after installing mine. The nolathane install is pretty easy. No disconnecting of brakelines, exhaust, or rear struts.
I believe it...when I did mine I started out following another DIY that said to disconnect the brake lines and remove the exhaust... after doing so and I started teh stock bushing removal... I went "WTF, why don't we just leverage the cars weight?"...a work smarter...not harder kind of thing. Given the urethane part of the bushings comes in 2 pieces...you don't have to get near as much clearance.


Just do it...and quit procrastinating...it's a pretty cheap mod for the amount of handling improvement you get out of it.
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      12-11-2013, 07:19 AM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveAZ View Post
I believe it...when I did mine I started out following another DIY that said to disconnect the brake lines and remove the exhaust... after doing so and I started teh stock bushing removal... I went "WTF, why don't we just leverage the cars weight?"...a work smarter...not harder kind of thing. Given the urethane part of the bushings comes in 2 pieces...you don't have to get near as much clearance.
Would a mechanic be able to do this leverage on a lift, or is that not safe operating procedure? Is this why they drop subframe?

Otherwise I dotn how happy a mechanic would be to be on the floor doing leverage.
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In-progress: n54 ssk, m3 trans mnt, e36M lip Wishlist: m3 susp, n55 eng mnt, headers, LSD, finn dif e60


"The 1-series is the last car that BMW engineered before the Germans, as a car-making culture, fell out of love with driving." - R&T 2013 135is
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      12-11-2013, 02:15 PM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrey_gta View Post
Would a mechanic be able to do this leverage on a lift, or is that not safe operating procedure? Is this why they drop subframe?

Otherwise I dotn how happy a mechanic would be to be on the floor doing leverage.
I personally wouldn't want to suspend a car 6' in the air by the frame rails and start manipulating it like that.
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      12-11-2013, 03:37 PM   #99
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This is definitely a jack stand job. If i remember correctly you don't even have to lift the car up very high, just to the first notch of the jack stands. You drop the subframe but only around 3", just enough to get a 1/2 drive socket in there. Then lift by the subframe a little, add heat and repeat.
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      01-29-2014, 03:56 PM   #100
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Thread bump...

Man, after seeing how easy it is to do with the heating/jack method, I wish I would have skipped the inserts.

Only a couple more steps...I was there.

Oh well...
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      01-30-2014, 10:05 AM   #101
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Excellent posts SteveAZ!

ordered a set of these up and will be installing with a heat gun rather than torch, when my garage warms up a bit.

I have installed alot of bushings on cars and these look like the best option for me regardless of price as I prefer poly to rubber. The ease of installation over the M3 bushings and the fact they are $60 less is just added incentive for me to go with these.
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      01-31-2014, 01:57 AM   #102
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Any links to where I can get aluminum bushings? Doing this in spring. My bushings are toast.
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      02-09-2014, 07:54 PM   #103
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Thanks guys....just an update...I was back in there this past week doing my LSD and M3 upper control arms.

RSFB still look like the day I put them in. I actually had to lower the rear part of the subframe to get my rear differential bushing changed and took one of the RSFBs out while I was in there to examine it...looked great.

Here's a couple pics.

M3 (TRW) upper rear control arms in...

Name:  Rear UCAs.jpg
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Size:  181.4 KB

Comparison of stock versus M3

Name:  UCA comps.jpg
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Size:  150.0 KB

Rear diff removed and new White Line bushings in..
Name:  no diff.jpg
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Size:  161.5 KB
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      02-17-2014, 05:29 AM   #104
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This is a great thread. With the new install techniques, I'm thinking the RSFB will be one of my next mods.

Do you guys have any concerns with damaging the sub frame when the heat is applied either from the torch or heat gun? Like weakening or warping the metal? Also, any concerns with damaging the under body when using the socket to push out the bushing? or bending the sub frame when jacking it up to push the bushing out?

I'm thinking a piece of wood between the underbody and the socket would help disperse the load to the underbody. But not sure if there is enough room for both the wood and the socket.
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      02-17-2014, 09:22 AM   #105
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Question

I've been reading, and re-reading all of the threads on here about the rear subframe bushings, and have finally decided to go ahead and do them. My only problem is I'm trying to decide between the yellows or powerflex purple bushings. Is there a difference in terms of difficulty of the install between either of these?
I remember reading somewhere on here about someone who was installing bushings that were 95A, and saying that they were difficult to press in. Will this be the case with the purples since they are harder than the yellows?
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      02-17-2014, 10:25 AM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikal7 View Post
Any links to where I can get aluminum bushings? Doing this in spring. My bushings are toast.
Turner Motorsport has quite a few. AKG Motorsport may also have solid aluminum along side their derlin. Otherwise see the m3 forums for ideas.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ian48 View Post
I've been reading, and re-reading all of the threads on here about the rear subframe bushings, and have finally decided to go ahead and do them. My only problem is I'm trying to decide between the yellows or powerflex purple bushings. Is there a difference in terms of difficulty of the install between either of these?
I remember reading somewhere on here about someone who was installing bushings that were 95A, and saying that they were difficult to press in. Will this be the case with the purples since they are harder than the yellows?
I dont know if Powerflex makes a Purple for e9x e8x, theey make yellow 75-80A and Black 95A. I think Purple are comparable to the Yellows.
Powerflex are harder to install because one of the bushing pairs is one piece, esp if its the Black. See a recent thread on e90post or here, cant recall.
This will add to shop labour time, hence why this thread has glowing reviews for 2 piece versions.
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In-progress: n54 ssk, m3 trans mnt, e36M lip Wishlist: m3 susp, n55 eng mnt, headers, LSD, finn dif e60


"The 1-series is the last car that BMW engineered before the Germans, as a car-making culture, fell out of love with driving." - R&T 2013 135is

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      02-17-2014, 04:38 PM   #107
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So the ones that are one piece would be similar to the M3 ones then?
I'm probably going to end up with the two piece yellow ones since I'm doing the install my self.
Thanks for letting me know. Would have been quite the shock to get to it and find out they are one piece.
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      03-12-2014, 10:30 PM   #108
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Right so figured I should come back and post results from this. Did the install my self and took about two and a half days. Had a friend of mine help me and our mechanical experience includes spark plugs and tire rotations.
This involved a lot of scavenging the garage for parts and a lot, I mean a lot of trial and error to get the bushings out. They make this seem easy in the diys. It needs a massive amount of force to get the rears and fair amount of heat.
Once those were out though getting the new ones in is really easy. Didn't have to take anything off except for the rear break lines. I did the 95A akg bushings and man can you feel the difference. This is my only suspension mod at the moment. Even so, the difference is staggering. It feels like the car is now one entity instead of two trying to rip each other apart.
The nvh has gone up a bit but that is partially due to the condition of the rear tires.
It's not a difficult job ( once you figure out how to get them out) my various methods included screw drivers, drills, wrench scaffolding. If you have the tool though I guess you can ignore all of that.
Here is the first bushing
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      03-25-2014, 03:00 PM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ian48 View Post
Right so figured I should come back and post results from this. Did the install my self and took about two and a half days. Had a friend of mine help me and our mechanical experience includes spark plugs and tire rotations.
This involved a lot of scavenging the garage for parts and a lot, I mean a lot of trial and error to get the bushings out. They make this seem easy in the diys. It needs a massive amount of force to get the rears and fair amount of heat.
Once those were out though getting the new ones in is really easy. Didn't have to take anything off except for the rear break lines. I did the 95A akg bushings and man can you feel the difference. This is my only suspension mod at the moment. Even so, the difference is staggering. It feels like the car is now one entity instead of two trying to rip each other apart.
The nvh has gone up a bit but that is partially due to the condition of the rear tires.
It's not a difficult job ( once you figure out how to get them out) my various methods included screw drivers, drills, wrench scaffolding. If you have the tool though I guess you can ignore all of that.
Here is the first bushing
Hmm.. That's interesting that it took you a lot of fiddling around to get them out. Would you mind elaborating a little bit on what you did to finally get the bushings out? I'm sure after the first one, you knew exactly how to approach the other 3?

Just trying to get a perspective on how much time I actually need to put away to do this myself.

Thanks a lot!
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      03-25-2014, 03:30 PM   #110
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I'm going to assume you did not use a press.
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