Low pressure fuel sensor replacement

[MIAblu1]

Hey guys, I got the low pressure fuel sensor and I'm about to undertake the task of swapping out the bad one but I can't seem to find any DIY's to help me out. Anyone know of one, all I find is one for the 5 series N54 but seems things are a bit different with the vs our 135's.


EDIT: DIY BELOW

[Dackelone]

BEFORE working on your car don NOT forget to disconnect your car battery. The starter sits very close to the low pressure sensor. I can't think of a worse scenario than a wrench shorting out on the starter batter cable and fuel spraying everywhere!


Maybe these l;inks will help you. I don't think there is a DIY per se. Maybe shoot some pics and help your community out!

See post #9....
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...64#post5752164

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...=286527&page=3

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ht=VACUUM+HOSE

[MIAblu1]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

BEFORE working on your car don NOT forget to disconnect your car battery. The starter sits very close to the low pressure sensor. I can't think of a worse scenario than a wrench shorting out on the starter batter cable and fuel spraying everywhere!


Maybe these l;inks will help you. I don't think there is a DIY per se. Maybe shoot some pics and help your community out!

See post #9....
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...64#post5752164

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...527&page=3

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ht=VACUUM+HOSE

Thanks man I appreciate it

[adevangel84]

My LPFP sensor is dying as well. Been getting the code 29f3. Been having stutter and hesitation issues at WOT and only hitting 10.7psi of boost on my Cobb ST1 Agg tune (before i was getting 15-16psi). I have CPO so I will try to have the dealer change it. If not I am going to attempt to replace it myself. Thanks for the links Dack!!

[MIAblu1]

Originally Posted by adevangel84

My LPFP sensor is dying as well. Been getting the code 29f3. Been having stutter and hesitation issues at WOT and only hitting 10.7psi of boost on my Cobb ST1 Agg tune (before i was getting 15-16psi). I have CPO so I will try to have the dealer change it. If not I am going to attempt to replace it myself. Thanks for the links Dack!!

If you're under warranty give it a shot, i went to BMW thinking it was the HPFP and they called back saying it was the LPFS and said $500 total for diagnostic, part, and labor.... picked up the car, paid the $135 for diagnostic, bought the sensor for $75 and I'm installing myself, but I'm still learning about working on this car which is the only thing slowing me down and making it challenging.

[MIAblu1]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

BEFORE working on your car don NOT forget to disconnect your car battery. The starter sits very close to the low pressure sensor. I can't think of a worse scenario than a wrench shorting out on the starter batter cable and fuel spraying everywhere!


Maybe these l;inks will help you. I don't think there is a DIY per se. Maybe shoot some pics and help your community out!

See post #9....
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...64#post5752164

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...=286527&page=3

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ht=VACUUM+HOSE

2 things, first, I read instructions to hold down the grey rings where the diverter valves are then twist clockwise to remove but im squeezing them, trying to push them downward, and even tried pulling upwards on them while trying to twist the valves clockwise but can't seem to figure out how to get them free...
Second, my charge pipe seems to have this device as seen in the picture below connected to it. I read it's a baffle of some sort? can I remove it and block it's connection off as I've seen with some other pictures of people's charge pipes? I mean, most pictures I've seen of other people's stock charge pipes don't have it and is just a round flat surface where it WOULD go if there were one....

[adevangel84]

Originally Posted by MIAblu1

2 things, first, I read instructions to hold down the grey rings where the diverter valves are then twist clockwise to remove but im squeezing them, trying to push them downward, and even tried pulling upwards on them while trying to twist the valves clockwise but can't seem to figure out how to get them free...
Second, my charge pipe seems to have this device as seen in the picture below connected to it. I read it's a baffle of some sort? can I remove it and block it's connection off as I've seen with some other pictures of people's charge pipes? I mean, most pictures I've seen of other people's stock charge pipes don't have it and is just a round flat surface where it WOULD go if there were one....

Just twist it clockwise. When I installed my ER charge pipe. These were a pain to get off, it took time and some force. Your charge pipe is probably the early model one like mine, the charge pipes for the newer cars doesn't have the sound baffling. I would just leave the sound baffling tube until you get an aftermarket charge pipe.

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by MIAblu1

...Second, my charge pipe seems to have this device as seen in the picture below connected to it....

^^That device is the "sound generator". Yes you can remove it. Its basically a sound muffler from what I understand. I believe all N54 cars have it.

[MIAblu1]

Ok... so changed the sensor and here's a slight walk through/write up.

http://www.activeautowerke.com/pdf/A...ff%20valve.pdf

To start with, you remove your intake system(Mine are DCI so it's quick removal)... I then used the links provided above to remove the charge pipe. Note: To remove the DVs you have to twist the grey rings themselves clockwise. I used small vice grips to grip them and make it easier to turn them and pulled the DV's up and out. I then removed only the hose connected to the DV closest to the front of the car and simply moved the DV's to the side and removed the charge pipe.


Next, I removed the throttle body which consists of just four bolts


Some people removed the intake manifold and what not but honestly i was able to get to the sensor by simply removing charge pipe, throttle body and moving a small wire box out of the way and used the small vice grip the remove the sensor.


And here's the little bugger


Lastly, since I had the DV's and charge pipe out, I took the liberty of changing the hoses to the DV's for hard rubber lines since I've read people have gotten leaks from the flimsy stock hoses



And also I removed that "sound baffler" mine had since its an '08 and capped off the outlet with a rubber cap I picked up for $3 at Home Depot.





End Result.... I put everything back together, double checked it all and STILL HAVE THE "ENGINE MALFUCTION" issue and car still runs like crap.... This coming after the BMW stealership swore it was due to the sensor being bad according to their diagnostic test. But at least if the sensor was indeed bad, I've both helped you guys out with this write up I hope and I've replaced a faulty part regardless that'd need replacing.

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by MIAblu1

End Result.... I put everything back together, double checked it all and STILL HAVE THE "ENGINE MALFUCTION" issue and car still runs like crap.... This coming after the BMW stealership swore it was due to the sensor being bad according to their diagnostic test. But at least if the sensor was indeed bad, I've both helped you guys out with this write up I hope and I've replaced a faulty part regardless that'd need replacing.

Thanks for the update.


So... does your car still have an issue? What is the next step?

Also... that $3 rubber cap your picked up at Home Depot - do you really think that can withstand 15+ PSI(you have a tune no?) over time along with the heat of the engine bay? I would have replaced the CP with a aftermarket one.

[Dackelone]

Never mind. I see you said its your HPFP in this other thread...

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=850963

[MIAblu1]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

Thanks for the update.


So... does your car still have an issue? What is the next step?

Also... that $3 rubber cap your picked up at Home Depot - do you really think that can withstand 15+ PSI(you have a tune no?) over time along with the heat of the engine bay? I would have replaced the CP with a aftermarket one.

Yes I have a tune. The cap is a hard rubber and is held on with the same clamps the DCI's are held on with so if it gave way I'd be pretty surprised. The rubber cap is meant for water pipes which are under a good amount of pressure being why I went with it, but definitely looking to get an aftermarket CP.
I'm going to get in contact with the dealer and demand they change the HPFP and reimburse me the charge for the diagnostic which would've otherwise been covered under warranty work replacing the HPFP.

[adevangel84]

Were you able to resolve this from your dealer? My dealer won't change it bc I don't have a CEL.

[MIAblu1]

Originally Posted by adevangel84

Were you able to resolve this from your dealer? My dealer won't change it bc I don't have a CEL.

Issue is that I had my car diagnosed by a local coder and he showed me it was the fuel pump cutting out. I went to the dealer, said it was shown to me that its the HPFP and they took it with no issue because I'm covered up to 100k miles on the HPFP. They called me and said THEIR diagnostic showed it was the low pressure fuel sensor causing the pump to fail and wanted $500 when all said and done for diagnostic, part, and labor. I paid the $135, bought the part from BMW for $80 and installed myself as you see but nothing..... That being said, I called my service rep and told her they were wrong and she set me up to come in on Monday to leave the car so they swap the HPFP like I said it was to begin with.

[lakylester]

Sorry bud - I know how you feel, I am going through a very similar situation.
Please let us know if this resolves your issues.

[MIAblu1]

Originally Posted by lakylester

Sorry bud - I know how you feel, I am going through a very similar situation.
Please let us know if this resolves your issues.

Fixed.. you can read here
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=855257

[roadkillrob]

This was a great write up, just did it on my 335i.

Just wanted to point out what someone else said, the section of line the sensor is attached to was updated as the vibration kills the sensor, the new line has a new style sensor that is supposed to be more vibration prone.

Old sensor is 13537614317

New line with new sensor is 13537622751 and requires a new retainer bolt 13537582770

Old sensor is $80, new line with sensor is $150 - it is a bit of work to get down there so I opted for the new parts so I hopefully don't have to do it again. Line is very easy to replace, one end is threaded, other is a simple push to lock unlock connection - almost easier than getting the sensor off.

[SeanS54]

Originally Posted by roadkillrob

This was a great write up, just did it on my 335i.

Just wanted to point out what someone else said, the section of line the sensor is attached to was updated as the vibration kills the sensor, the new line has a new style sensor that is supposed to be more vibration prone.

Old sensor is 13537614317

New line with new sensor is 13537622751 and requires a new retainer bolt 13537582770

Old sensor is $80, new line with sensor is $150 - it is a bit of work to get down there so I opted for the new parts so I hopefully don't have to do it again. Line is very easy to replace, one end is threaded, other is a simple push to lock unlock connection - almost easier than getting the sensor off.

this is true..

thanks for the DIY, it was really helpful... I made a little video:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...7#post18968987

[Warren88]

Thanks for this post. I've been having some issues with my fuel system and am going to start by replacing the sensor.

Does anyone know if the new fuel line (https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/13537622751/ES2698645/) will fit the N55? I have a 2011 135i e82.

Cheers