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[Dat Aus]

I've spent the past hour searching this forum but can't find what I'm looking for.

I have style 261s with 225/40/18 front and 255/35/18 rear. I want to go up to a 235 in the front soon. The car is lowered on Eibach springs.

I just want to get the wheels a bit more flush. No poke. I don't mind rolling the guards but I don't want any rubbing if possible (been there and done that).

What size spacer should I go for? I was thinking 7mm front and 10mm rear? I really have little idea how it works when it comes to wheel fitment. Any help would be appreciated.

[asbrr]

[QUOTE=Dat Aus;20204548]I've spent the past hour searching this forum but can't find what I'm looking for.

I have style 261s with 225/40/18 front and 255/35/18 rear. I want to go up to a 235 in the front soon. The car is lowered on Eibach springs.

I just want to get the wheels a bit more flush. No poke. I don't mind rolling the guards but I don't want any rubbing if possible (been there and done that).

What size spacer should I go for? I was thinking 7mm front and 10mm rear? I really have little idea how it works when it comes to wheel fitment. Any help would be appreciated.
QUOTE]

I have a Bilstein B12 kit w/ Dinan plates up front, this kit uses Eibach springs and I'm planning to add some spacers for the same purpose. My tires are also the same size. The key difference is the camber plates give me more room up front for a larger spacer and also an extra 5mm of height. But the rears will be the same as your car.

If you can wait a few days while my spacers come in I will let you know my results. For the front, a 7mm spacer would leave you a very small "lip" for hubcentric fitment, so it's generally considered a bad idea. If you knock out the alignment pins for some extra camber up front you might be able to fit a hubcentric 10mm spacer at the front with no rubbing. For the rear the camber amount also matters, so try to get as much negative camber within the factory ranges.

Lastly - I would strongly recommend upgrading your dampers, that will also help prevent rubbing under load/dips/bumps as your stock dampers are quite weak especially if you've upgraded your springs already. It's always better to do both damper and spring rather than just dampers.

[Dat Aus]

Thanks for the info. If you could post some photos here of yours when you get them on it would be much appreciated!

I only just bought the car a couple of months ago. The previous owner did the springs without upgrading the shocks. I would have done both at the same time. I figured I'll just wait until the shocks need replacing and then switch to a coil over setup straight away.

[asbrr]

Originally Posted by Dat Aus

Thanks for the info. If you could post some photos here of yours when you get them on it would be much appreciated!

I only just bought the car a couple of months ago. The previous owner did the springs without upgrading the shocks. I would have done both at the same time. I figured I'll just wait until the shocks need replacing and then switch to a coil over setup straight away.

Sure thing, will do so by end of the week hopefully. I'd start saving for shocks + install now....the factory ones won't last very long when running with a lower/stiffer spring. Once the car starts to bounce noticeably you'll know it's time

[asbrr]

Quick update - got my spacers and did a quick test fitting on one of my rears with a 10mm hubcentric (from BMS). Was shocked that it fit over the hub lip on my car which looked way too big to fit a 10mm spacer with the rear facing flush on the rotor hat. Will do a full fitting tomorrow and advise on how it goes.

[asbrr]

Ok so here's what I got:

Suspension:
Bilstein B12 kit (Eibach pro kit w/ Bilstein B8 sport dampers)
Dinan camber plates at front
Dinan rear shock mounts

Front:
225/40/18 Bridgestone RE760 on Style 263 (18x7.5 ET 49)
BMW 12mm hubcentric spacer
Camber set to around -1.7 degrees

Rear:
255/35/18 Bridgestone RE760 on Style 263 (18x8.5 ET 52)
BMS 10mm hubcentric spacer
Camber set to around -1.6 degrees

There is TONS of room at the front, and no rubbing. This is likely due to the extra 5mm of ride height I get from the Dinan spacers, as well as the -1.7 degrees of camber. There is no rubbing whatsoever, and the wheels sit nicely and don't poke out too much with that spacer setup

The rear sits nice and flush, and fills out the wheel well nicely. BUT, I have rubbing under deep dips/bumps on the rear driver's side, it's on the angled part of the inner fender. I am hoping to get my rear camber adjusted to within factory specs which is around -1.9, and hopefully that's enough to clear the fender. It's disappointing and odd that it only rubs on one side, and compared to others this is a less aggressive setup.

Honestly for you, I would NOT recommend anything more than 10mm in the back and you might get away with it if your car is one of the lucky ones and has a few extra mm of room. Otherwise you're looking at fender mods. The front you also might be pushing it with anything more than 10mm again, because you don't have the camber I have.

Last point, don't do anything until you have your suspension mods done, so put in your shocks etc, then look at spacers/wheels. With your stock shocks there is more chance of rubbing since they are not going to be able to control an upgraded spring as well as a different upgraded shock would.

I've attached a couple of pics showing the rear with a 10mm spacer.

[Dat Aus]

Thanks a lot for the detailed write up! Really appreciate it. I think I might see if I can find a 7 or 8mm for the rear and the same on the front.