More codes

[yawn]

Had a list of codes come up while having a spirited run, and of course, loss of power with check engine light on. Was hoping if anyone here could diagnose:

30FE
3100
2C7E
2C6b

The codes with 2Cxx I believe could be related to the downpipes? But I am running Cobb Stage 2+ which should have autoclear for dp codes, right? Further to this, I thought dp codes were more like 29F4/29F5 and 2C31/2C32.

And the 30FE doesn't show up much with search - something about sticky wastegate actuators? Tried greasing them but didn't really improve things.

And I don't think I should be too worried about 3100 right? I mean that's just a code for boost control deactivation - loss of power.

[yawn]

Actually, I missed this thread which probably is the key to at least the 30FE:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=609160

Thoughts?

[yawn]

bump! Anyone? 270 over views no replies

In any case, I understand it could be the o2 sensors could be damaged and need replacing... is this right?

[whatamiat]

Hi Sharkatron.

I'm having the 30FE and 3100 errors aswel, not getting the others though.
My car is 100% stock.

Are you getting your errors with tune removed? Downpipes blocking the actuator arm?

From reading, this issue is mostly related to tuned cars, that's why I am at a loss with my 100% stock car.

Mines RHD aswel which makes accessing the actuator arm impossible from the hood.
I can see it from underneath.

What oil did you use to lubricate it?
I'm going under the car tomorrow, how much resistance should I feel when trying to move the rod?

[yawn]

Originally Posted by whatamiat

Hi Sharkatron.

I'm having the 30FE and 3100 errors aswel, not getting the others though.
My car is 100% stock.

Are you getting your errors with tune removed? Downpipes blocking the actuator arm?

From reading, this issue is mostly related to tuned cars, that's why I am at a loss with my 100% stock car.

Mines RHD aswel which makes accessing the actuator arm impossible from the hood.
I can see it from underneath.

What oil did you use to lubricate it?
I'm going under the car tomorrow, how much resistance should I feel when trying to move the rod?

Well, the thing is, codes started popping up at the track with a tune on the car. So I actually removed the tune in the hope that it would stop the codes, or that the tune was causing the codes. However, in stock form, my car was still throwing 30FE. I've recently had dps installed, but my mechanic assures me he made sure the clamps weren't in the way of the wastegate actuator arms. However, for him to check, it's going to cost me seeing as it's essentially reinstalling the dps - quite a bit of work. So I'm a bit hesitant until I'm sure that's the problem.

Throughout my search on the net, I've come across some possible causes of 30FE. It could be the boost solenoids. There are plenty of cases out there that show a failing boost solenoid causes underboost (30FF) problems. However, I was reading the technical section on here on how the N54 works. [B] "In the idle phase, the wastegate valves of both turbochargers are closed. This enables the full exhaust-gas flow available to be utilized to speed up the compressor already at these low engine speeds. [B] Am I right to believe that the solenoids are responsible for keeping the wastegates closed? And that when they fail, the wastegates open causing underboost (30FF)? And if so, can the solenoids malfunction to become always active, forcing the wastegates to be closed at all times and resulting in onverboost (30FE)? I am uncertain here...

It could be failing vacuum lines. Though if there is a tear, it will result in underboost due to the leak. However, I did come across a thread where that person had a collapsed vacuum line which was preventing the vacuum triggered by the solenoid to open the wastegates - this apparently resulted in overboost.

In a worst case scenario, it could be failing turbos! Ouch...

The thing is, the 30FE only pops up after the 4-5 turn at the track. I can get a few wot pulls done before it comes up. So, I'm inclined to believe that after a time, heat builds up causing the wastegates to become stuck shut. My mechanic put some grease on one of the arms (front one?) but couldn't get to the other. He has to remove the dps to gain adequate access to grease both arms up. I might have no choice but to get him to remove dps (and check vband clamp at the same time) to grease the arms. The arms should move freely - bear in mind they are spring loaded, but can still be moved by the fingers. That's how I saw it anyway when he applied the grease to the front one. Could hear it ticking as it opened and closed. I would suggest high temp grease for lubrication. It's going to get hot. I've read though that lubrication is a temporary fix as it does tend to burn off with the heat and you're back at square one.

Does your 30FE code come up immediately after an wot pull? Or is it like mine where it takes a few full throttle passes? I was doing some logs last night in 3rd gear, and was expecting 30FE to pop up. To my surprise, it didn't. Oil temps did rise to 120C though (I have the BMS temp bypass so would have been alot higher did I not have this mod). I'm thinking it has to be really one wot immediately after another in quick succession (like at a race track) to cause the 30FE to come up. With all these possible causes, I'm not sure where to start.

[whatamiat]

Mines a 07 e92 335i.

First happened on a motorway pull from 120 to 180 WOT. Recreating the CEL was random enough after that but with enough WOT pulls I could get it into limp.

Checked codes and 30fe 3100.
Got an indy to clear them and the car was good for 10 days. After a long drive with a good bit of overtaking it came back, stopped the car, everytime for the rest of the journey it would limp under WOT.

The next day I took it for a drive and it took 3 WOT runs for it to come back. Then again on that run each time after it was registered I got CEL

Something to do with heat?
Although my Indy did tell me it takes an error to register 3 times before CEL. First 2 times its registered, 3rd time CEL. This could also be it.

Originally Posted by sharkatron

Throughout my search on the net, I've come across some possible causes of 30FE. It could be the boost solenoids. There are plenty of cases out there that show a failing boost solenoid causes underboost (30FF) problems. However, I was reading the technical section on here on how the N54 works. [B] "In the idle phase, the wastegate valves of both turbochargers are closed. This enables the full exhaust-gas flow available to be utilized to speed up the compressor already at these low engine speeds. [B] Am I right to believe that the solenoids are responsible for keeping the wastegates closed? And that when they fail, the wastegates open causing underboost (30FF)? And if so, can the solenoids malfunction to become always active, forcing the wastegates to be closed at all times and resulting in onverboost (30FE)? I am uncertain here...

Interesting thinking. Just started reading this, it may provide more info:
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=204091

The collapsed vacuum lines is interesting, would the leak test show up a collapsed line?

What would we be looking for?

[whatamiat]

Did you try switching the solenoids around? I haven't done this but read somewhere where it was done.


Could it be caused by a faulty injector?
Floor the throttle -not delivering correct amount of fuel - too much boost for the amount of fuel in the cylinder.

[yawn]

Originally Posted by whatamiat

Did you try switching the solenoids around? I haven't done this but read somewhere where it was done.


Could it be caused by a faulty injector?
Floor the throttle -not delivering correct amount of fuel - too much boost for the amount of fuel in the cylinder.

Yeah, the solenoid test... I've read it. And no, I haven't done it yet either. I just have a hunch it's a heat issue. The way your car goes into limp mode is very similar to mine. Not on the first wot, or even second, but usually after that.

I haven't considered the injectors though....

If you do get a chance to grease up the actuator arms, that would be great! I have a sneaking suspicion that's the cause of all our woes. So weird how I haven't pulled 30FE again considering I was doing some WOT 3rd gear pulls just recently. Like you said, the CEL only alerts after a 3rd error - but I was doing these wot runs with no problems.... seems to happen to me on the track...

[alberto.munizaga]

Hi!

Long time without replys here, any solution???

the same here, 3 month after do the downpipes, I´m getting the 30FE and 3100 at WOT.

We have check this:
WG arms, were a little sticky, but we put some high temp grease. Dind´t fix the problem.

Solenoids: I understand this works like an interruptor, on or off, 0% or 100% Im right? So, If I´m getting overboost, is because both are working. With the car off, we saw the WG open inside the turbos, when starts the car, both WG arms move along, so I suppose are ok. Any way, I took out the solenoid, blow through them, seems to be ok.

Vacuum Lines: as we have Overboost, lines are off the table here I think... vacuum lines problem will produce underboost I think.

I have Cobb system, and as you can iagine, the actual boost are higher than req. boost. But other strange thing I saw, the Air Charge Temp (ACT) on the log is -53°F, never change....

As I know, the ACT is a data that use the ECU to calculate something in the car. I can see that in the map configuration.

So, any solve to this problem? someone check the ACT? Thanks!

[boxxa]

Originally Posted by alberto.munizaga

Hi!

Long time without replys here, any solution???

the same here, 3 month after do the downpipes, I´m getting the 30FE and 3100 at WOT.

We have check this:
WG arms, were a little sticky, but we put some high temp grease. Dind´t fix the problem.

Solenoids: I understand this works like an interruptor, on or off, 0% or 100% Im right? So, If I´m getting overboost, is because both are working. With the car off, we saw the WG open inside the turbos, when starts the car, both WG arms move along, so I suppose are ok. Any way, I took out the solenoid, blow through them, seems to be ok.

Vacuum Lines: as we have Overboost, lines are off the table here I think... vacuum lines problem will produce underboost I think.

I have Cobb system, and as you can iagine, the actual boost are higher than req. boost. But other strange thing I saw, the Air Charge Temp (ACT) on the log is -53°F, never change....

As I know, the ACT is a data that use the ECU to calculate something in the car. I can see that in the map configuration.

So, any solve to this problem? someone check the ACT? Thanks!

If your ACT sensor is bad, you will throw codes for the boost not running where it should be I think. -53F is probably the bottom with no return voltage on the sensor so if that is your case, you are going to throw codes for boot running at what it not should be for the air temperature it is detecting.

[joe86]

I would think The air charge temp sensor would throw a plausibility fault, but maybe not. Check if unplugged. Maybe problem with cobb reading incorrect?
-could be problem with dme (unlikely)
-Solenoids would have to both stick shut at the same time to cause over boost which is very unlikely. If you clamp off the vacuum bridge between the solenoids on the wastegate side and the fault happens more often then maybe your solenoids.
-Watch you rear wastegate arm (it is difficult to see the front wastegate) as you unplug and plug in both the vacuum lines at the reservoirs. If the arm doesn't move smoothly or gets stuck or gets crooked/misaligned then your turbos need replacement, grease will not fix (this is a common problem).
-a pinched or collapsed vacuum hose between the wastegates and solenoids may cause vacuum to not bleed off fast enough. replace the vacuum lines and recheck.
-may also be the boost psi sensor reading incorrectly hook up gauge and compare readings.

[yawn]

I have not had time to recreate the problem, but will do so soon... I have checked it out with my guys, who can point the finger at nothing else apart from sticky wastegates... I've replaced vacuum lines, changed boost solenoids, and codes were still popping up at the time... Thinking just replace the turbos - good chance for me to get RBs

Then again, if it's not the turbos creating the fault, that would be one expensive lesson!

[yawn]

Then again, this only happens after about 15 wot runs back to back in quick succession... think going to racetrack.

[yawn]

lol... just noticed too over 1800 views to this thread... must be a common problem? Surely someone must know...