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      06-08-2011, 08:47 PM   #45
Choclove23
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245s in the front is insane!!!!!
Not only does it rub, surely it is detrimental to the handling:
1) Totally throws the alignment out.
2) Throws the camber out
3) Unbalances the front of the car towards understeer (which is alreay noticable with 225s)
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      06-08-2011, 09:01 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ptack View Post
I think you can fix it with a very slight roll. I had a similar problem with 1 of the rear 255s and $50 took care of it.

What about the color? Are you keeping em silver or powder coating? Pics are hard to really tell with God's color. I prefer a dark or greyish silver.
Yeah I'm gonna suck up the extra $80 and roll it. I only need 2-3 mm but I'll do a bit more for my sanity.

I kinda like the silver actually. It's more of a light gunmetal, but if I end up powdercoating I'd go for something a bit darker.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Choclove23 View Post
245s in the front is insane!!!!!
Not only does it rub, surely it is detrimental to the handling:
1) Totally throws the alignment out.
2) Throws the camber out
3) Unbalances the front of the car towards understeer (which is alreay noticable with 225s)
1) any new tire or wheel size throws the alignment out. It's why I have an alignment scheduled as soon as my rears show up.
2) camber is part of the alignment and will also be fixed
3) lol how does more rubber in the front of the car add to the understeer problem?

One thing that I have noticed tho is that the steering is noticeably heavier than before. I guess that's a consequence of going up 3 sizes from stock up front. Lol
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      06-08-2011, 09:12 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrokenVert View Post
Yeah I'm gonna suck up the extra $80 and roll it. I only need 2-3 mm but I'll do a bit more for my sanity.

I kinda like the silver actually. It's more of a light gunmetal, but if I end up powdercoating I'd go for something a bit darker.



1) any new tire or wheel size throws the alignment out. It's why I have an alignment scheduled as soon as my rears show up.
2) camber is part of the alignment and will also be fixed
3) lol how does more rubber in the front of the car add to the understeer problem?

One thing that I have noticed tho is that the steering is noticeably heavier than before. I guess that's a consequence of going up 3 sizes from stock up front. Lol
1) By 'alignment' - I mean track/tread.
2) Not without a camber kit. The one for the 130i comes as a separate item which has to be installed - unless you have coilovers with adjustable camber.
3) The fact that you say the steering is heavier answers your own question.
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      06-08-2011, 09:21 PM   #48
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I overstated it a bit. It's not understeer, it's that there is more tire to turn so the steering has a bit more weight to it. Have you ever driven a go kart? They oversteer like crazy but they require you to have some muscle to turn the wheel

Steering weight != understeer.

My car now has a slightly wider than stock track, that is beneficial in handling.

Im only rubbing by 2 or 3 mm, I don't need a camber kit, you can push -.5 to -.75 degrees without a camber kit via an alignment pin removal. That's more than enough for my current application. Im at 60K miles on the odo (~96K km) my shocks and springs will need to be replaced soon, probably next summer so I'll do that all then.

A 245 square setup is nothing but beneficial to the handling of the car. more meat up front gives the front of the car more bite, this increases the overall grip that the front of the car has from stock which decreases understeer.
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      06-08-2011, 10:28 PM   #49
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New wheels and tires do not throw off the alignment... way too much misinformation in this thread.

Things that cause alignments to go bad: NYC Roads, Pot holes, Getting towed from the front wheels, messing with suspension components, removing alignment pin.

Wheels simply bolt on nothing else....

I'm very jealous that you have 245's in the front. Get hte fronts rolled and you should be in business. I'm not sure if you can roll the fronts... I was under the imrpession that it was only the rear but I could be wrong.
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      06-08-2011, 10:29 PM   #50
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Also the weighted feeling is fun but also a pain in the ass sometimes. You'll get used to it though.
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      06-08-2011, 10:36 PM   #51
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It's the difference in track. My uncle always told me that and I always trusted his advice beyond my knowledge and the Internet.

Still tho, I havent had an alignment in the past year and mine is currently a bit off
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      06-09-2011, 12:02 PM   #52
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Matt, your uncle CAN NOT possibly know more then the interwebz, where everyone has armchair raced the Ring and completed thousands of laps. Tell him and his american made racecar that he doesn't know shit because some guy on the internet said there is no way a square setup with nice wide tires can be better than the staggered stock setup. Thats right, I'm also telling you to talk to his car.
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      06-09-2011, 12:44 PM   #53
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An alignment once a year can't hurt...esp if the car is daily driven and will go a long way towards longer tire life....but like Mo said, just changing wheels/tires does not necessarily require an alignment.
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      06-09-2011, 04:48 PM   #54
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I know on my car the front fenders came with a "roll." Meaning on the fender the lip inside is rolled back fairly tight. It can probably be moved a bit for more clearance. I think the killer is where is meets up with the bumper, which probably can be rolled. It looks close, so hopefully it doesn't take much to cram the wheels in there properly.
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      06-10-2011, 11:54 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timhatimay View Post
I know on my car the front fenders came with a "roll." Meaning on the fender the lip inside is rolled back fairly tight. It can probably be moved a bit for more clearance. I think the killer is where is meets up with the bumper, which probably can be rolled. It looks close, so hopefully it doesn't take much to cram the wheels in there properly.
I spoke to a guy at Camber Toe and he didnt say that it would be an issue. I feel an 8-10mm lip on my fender that feels like it can be rolled back.

Hope thats not an indication of a shop that just wants to take my money.

From my ear it sounds like its striking at the top of the fender and not the bumper.
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      06-10-2011, 12:30 PM   #56
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Give me a sturdy jack and a ball peen hammer and I'll take care of it for you. Anything to get my rims back.
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      06-10-2011, 04:05 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrokenVert View Post
I spoke to a guy at Camber Toe and he didnt say that it would be an issue. I feel an 8-10mm lip on my fender that feels like it can be rolled back.

Hope thats not an indication of a shop that just wants to take my money.

From my ear it sounds like its striking at the top of the fender and not the bumper.
I haven't experienced the other guys at Camber Toe. I would try to work with Matt specifically, because he is the BMW specialist. I felt he was honest and fair, so I don't think he would try and take your money. I think there is probably still room to gain on the fenders, so just feel under the fender and see what you think.

Tim
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      06-10-2011, 04:41 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrokenVert View Post
I spoke to a guy at Camber Toe and he didnt say that it would be an issue. I feel an 8-10mm lip on my fender that feels like it can be rolled back.

Hope thats not an indication of a shop that just wants to take my money.

From my ear it sounds like its striking at the top of the fender and not the bumper.
Nice looking wheels Dude..

The square set up def works for me also with my track tires, although i didnt go as wide. being able to rotate and even flip after ever year is well worth it.


whoever is doing the alignment needs to really lay into the top mount to get the full -.75* .... We laid in real hard, but got one side more than the other and had to settle for -.75* to be even on both side..

Good Luck..
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      06-10-2011, 08:37 PM   #59
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Thanks guys. I'll call again on Monday and see if I can get matt specifically
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