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11-05-2011, 02:02 PM | #1 |
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Ohlins Coilovers
I just had the Ohlins Road and Track coilovers installed on my 135, I also installed Ground Control camber plates (hybrid version), and I couldn't be happier.
Harold at HPA was nice enough to help me with some spring rate suggestions, and I ended up getting the Ohlins kit and camber plates locally at PSI (Performance Shock Inc.). The Ohlins kit is available from HPA as well. I researched a LOT, and asked many people about the different coilover kits available, and I ended up choosing the Ohlins. They are relatively unknown in the street car world, VERY well known in the racing and motorcycle world, so I knew they would be a good choice, plus the dual flow valve (DFV) sounded cool, if it did what they said it would do, which was nicer, more comfortable ride, with high end coilover performance. It sounded perfect for my DD/occasional AX car Some notes; The front struts need to be fully inserted into the hubs. The shop that installed mine didn't do this, and PSI said that others have made this mistake, the hub clamps need to be pried open and the struts inserted until the tab keys into the slot. The kit springs are 342/400. I went with 700 rear springs, and needed to switch to 8" rear springs, 2" shorter than the supplied 10". With the supplied fronts, and 8" rears, the car is lowered an inch with adjustment available to go either up or down. I wanted to say that anyone considering a new coilover kit like the KW V3, 4100's, or any other kit for DD/AX/track purposes in the $2500 range, should seriously consider the Ohlins. It is different than the other systems, the DFV really works. I know the difference between stock and aftermarket and the difference this makes, I have JRZ's on my race car. The Ohlins shocks have my car feeling softer on the road with twice the spring rates, and the car is transformed. Handling is much improved and my nice ride is retained. |
11-06-2011, 05:25 AM | #2 |
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There's a 135i for sale in the UK currently that is advertised as having this Ohlins kit fitted.....and the data on the Ohlins webiste looks good.... but they only list a kit for the E9* 3 Series, so I'm guessing this is the kit you have fitted to your 135...???
The ride comfort issue that this kit offers makes me definately interested in it..... more photos and feedback please
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11-09-2011, 11:15 PM | #4 | |
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11-10-2011, 08:19 AM | #5 |
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I'll post photos later today.
After a week of driving my backroads, I am absolutely amazed at how nice the Ohlins coilovers are. Aside from the ride being nicer, even though it is twice as stiff, I've noticed the handling is greatly improved. Lean is not noticeable any more, the car is on rails. Also, on my backroads, there were sections that had successive bumps that couldn't be hit too fast, as the car was rebounding from the first when it hit the second, and the car would slam down and bottom out/hit the stops, and there were some washboard sections that had the car shuddering so bad I drove into the other lane to avoid them. Now, it is as if these sections didn't even exist! I can bomb rough sections much faster, and the car soaks them up like nothing, all while the ride is now many times smoother and better. If I want, I can now drive my bumpy backroads a LOT faster than I could before. I was expecting to have to slow down due to the car being lowered, but the opposite has happened. I really think these Ohlins coilovers are special. Best mod I've done to my car by far. |
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11-10-2011, 02:43 PM | #6 | |
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11-10-2011, 03:48 PM | #7 |
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Here's a pic of my car.
I hope I CAN talk you into getting the Ohlins! They're available from PSI (Performance Shock Inc, ask for Beau) and I think HPA carries them as well. I chose different spring rates for the rear. The kit comes with 342 front and 400 rear, I got 700 rears in 8" length and the car rides 1" lower with adjustment in either direction. No revalving is necessary for the rear shocks. I'm not an expert, but I do know how nice racing shocks feel, I have JRZ's on my Porsche, better performance but harsher ride, and the ride on my 135 is SOOO smooth even with twice the spring rates, I'm convinced the Ohlins Road and Track shocks are different and special. The DFV is the real deal. |
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11-10-2011, 10:47 PM | #8 |
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Great review! I like the drop they give, and it sounds like you're loving how they change the handling.
I'm not gonna be rude and ask how much you paid, but from what I gather, 'dem be some expensive coils! you could probably buy two sets of KW or ST coils for the price of those. I'd be disappointed if your reaction was anything less than "WOW" so I'm glad they deliver, and are definitely worth the price
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11-11-2011, 02:29 AM | #9 | ||
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11-11-2011, 05:18 AM | #10 | |
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The Ohlins kit was $2500, Including the Ground Control camber plates I was out the door right around $3000.
These are not that expensive. If you look and compare prices against the other brands, the Ohlins are basically the same price until you bump up to the JRZ Moton AST range. Quote:
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11-11-2011, 02:21 PM | #11 |
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While I understand that you do get what you pay for, and being a biker, I also know just how good Ohlins stuff is...... but the substantial cost of them will make it a well thought out decision.
Being from the UK If I do take the plunge I will get them supplied and setup by Aurok Ltd., as they are the only authorised UK Ohlins car centre.
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11-11-2011, 03:51 PM | #12 |
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Cost is just a little more than TC Kline single adj., same as TC Kline double adj., just a little more than KW V3, $100 less than KW Clubsports, about $200 more than AST 4100. Right smack in the middle price-wise.
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11-11-2011, 04:29 PM | #13 | |
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Here in the UK, for the Ohlins supplied and fitted you are looking at a price that would convert to US$4000.
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11-17-2011, 10:24 AM | #14 |
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Just out of curiosity, how did you conclude that the 700lb rear spring rate was the right choice when Ohlins supplies 400lbs? If the 135i is over-sprung, which is one reason the rear becomes unsettled on medium-large size bumps, logically you would assume that a lighter rear spring rate would improve handling when paired with a better quality damper. Or is the rebound control on the stock dampers the real culprit to the stock handling woes?
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11-17-2011, 11:52 AM | #15 | |
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11-17-2011, 11:58 AM | #16 |
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I asked Harold for his suggestion for spring rates, and went with rates very close to what he suggested.
It seems that most people running coilovers with custom spring rates are using a 1/2 ratio, so 350-700, 400-800, 450-900. The stock rear springs, subframe bushings, and shocks were not working for me at all. I was experiencing what others have reported, rear end bouncing and waggling, loads of rear squat under hard excelleration, too much leaning in turns, I was not happy. Now I am very happy with the way the car feels, less lean, less squat, less bouncing, car handles bumps better, car handles better in turns, car feels balanced. |
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11-17-2011, 12:11 PM | #17 |
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I need to replace my shocks and springs come summer. At 70K miles the shocks are dead...the car has gotten scary floaty at times.
So anyway. Im honestly thinking of these as my replacement. |
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11-17-2011, 12:34 PM | #18 | ||
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This is interesting. IIRC all the coilover suspensions I have used had a higher front spring rate than the rear. I'm sure Ohlin's knows what's best, but this seems strange to me. BTW- I'm a Penske guy myself, never tried Ohlins in my track bike, despite their reputation Would love to try this in my car. |
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11-17-2011, 12:44 PM | #19 |
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In this case, I think that the Ohlins choice for rear rates is off a bit. In reading other peoples reports, most have also gone much higher with the rear rates, and even those who ran the kit-supplied 400lb Ohlins springs also went higher later on.
I'll see if I can't find those postings and link. Something about the rear spring position on the 135/335 makes the rear effective rates much lower than what would be normal. So, for conversation's sake, if you want the feeling of 400lb rear rates, you need 700lb springs. The shocks experience the 400lb effective rates, so no revalving is necessary. The stock springs and shocks and subframe bushings are just not too hot. The M3 rear subframe bushings really really make a big difference as well. |
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09-12-2013, 09:24 AM | #20 |
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Hey Mike, rather ironic, but my gf and myself just purchased your old 135i! I was curious if there was a way I might be able to chat with you or maybe message back and forth briefly about all the things you had done to the car and possible settings you may have done already (like camber settings ect) I would really appreciate it and so far we LOVE the car it is awesome and full of torque!
-SP shelbypaget@gmail.com |
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10-21-2013, 12:34 PM | #21 | |
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