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      10-17-2017, 10:34 AM   #1
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DIY request: adjusting the window glass

Anyone have a write up for a DIY for window glass adjustment?
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      10-19-2017, 06:03 AM   #2
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You need a C spanner.
Gently slip off the waistline trim piece (it will warp if you mishandle it). Use a plastic tool to work it off the door bit by bit.

Slacken both adjusters and perform your adjustment. I like to use a sheet of copy paper to test. The paper shouldn't rip but it also shouldn't pull out with no resistance. You want the glass to hold the paper with some moderate resistance.

After you're happy with the adjustment, tighten and put everything back. Then hose test it
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      10-19-2017, 09:23 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juld0zer View Post
You need a C spanner.
Gently slip off the waistline trim piece (it will warp if you mishandle it). Use a plastic tool to work it off the door bit by bit.

Slacken both adjusters and perform your adjustment. I like to use a sheet of copy paper to test. The paper shouldn't rip but it also shouldn't pull out with no resistance. You want the glass to hold the paper with some moderate resistance.

After you're happy with the adjustment, tighten and put everything back. Then hose test it
What do adjustors look like/what kind of tool is needed to adjust ? C Spanner? What size etc
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      10-19-2017, 02:27 PM   #4
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The adjusters look like this. The spanner in the 2nd pic (these also accept an allen wrench, but not from the outside of the car)
From the outside of the car, counterclockwise is loosening. They can also be reached from the inside with the door panel removed (snap off the trim on the door handle to expose screws; third screw near the bottom of the door). They're pretty tight in there.
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      10-20-2017, 06:26 PM   #5
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Make sure you wrap the C spanner in electrical tape or an old bat grip, bike tube etc to prevent scratching the glass

Also make a wrist strap with a shoelace because it's very easy to drop
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      10-20-2017, 06:56 PM   #6
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Jorgensen54

You mean to tell me you can't just insert a e-torx socket up from under the door and adjust it that way? I just assumed that's how one could adjust the window height? Pop off an access plug and use a long e-torx socket. ???


You can clearly see the e-socket bolts at the end of the green stops... at 0:40 sec

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      10-20-2017, 07:06 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
Jorgensen54

You mean to tell me you can't just insert a e-torx socket up from under the door and adjust it that way? I just assumed that's how one could adjust the window height? Pop off an access plug and use a long e-torx socket. ???


You can clearly see the e-socket bolts at the end of the green stops... at 0:40 sec

This seems WAY easier...dackel, can you do it this way???
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      10-20-2017, 07:08 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
Jorgensen54

You mean to tell me you can't just insert a e-torx socket up from under the door and adjust it that way? I just assumed that's how one could adjust the window height? Pop off an access plug and use a long e-torx socket. ???


You can clearly see the e-socket bolts at the end of the green stops... at 0:40 sec

Trying this tonight
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      10-20-2017, 07:42 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
Jorgensen54

You mean to tell me you can't just insert a e-torx socket up from under the door and adjust it that way? I just assumed that's how one could adjust the window height? Pop off an access plug and use a long e-torx socket. ???


You can clearly see the e-socket bolts at the end of the green stops... at 0:40 sec

This video doesn't show an E8X.
No, you cannot do it this way. Our regulator mounting points on the glass look nothing like that. They look the way my last post shows in which you have to loosen the cog bolt with a C spanner and adjust the window from there.

Edited to not be misdirecting.
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Last edited by Jorgensen54; 10-20-2017 at 08:16 PM. Reason: Had wrong info.
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      10-20-2017, 07:42 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twhill19 View Post
This seems WAY easier...dackel, can you do it this way???
IDK but this is the way I always assumed one adjusted the window. In the video it looks to be a 6er...

The hard part will be having an e-socket tool that fits up inside the door(holes) and onto the adjuster. I would think it's an E15 or E20 inverse torx. Not sure of the size... just a guess. IF you use a socket... don't loose it inside the door!

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      10-20-2017, 07:49 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jorgensen54 View Post
This video doesn't show an E8X.
No, you cannot do it this way. Our regulator mounting points on the glass look nothing like that. They look the way my last post shows in which you have to loosen the cog bolt with a C spanner and adjust the window from there.

We do have adjustment screws though(I just went out and looked since my door panel is still off). Regardless, you have to loosen that cog first, otherwise you risk breaking the window or manipulating the plastic holders in a way that the window will merely fall back into it's old position.

Yea.... I guess like in this video(down below). It's amazing how there are no videos out there on how to adjust the windows on a e82 or e92 car.

Adjust those "cogs" like this guy is saying/showing...

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      10-20-2017, 07:56 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jorgensen54 View Post
This video doesn't show an E8X.
No, you cannot do it this way. Our regulator mounting points on the glass look nothing like that. They look the way my last post shows in which you have to loosen the cog bolt with a C spanner and adjust the window from there.

We do have adjustment screws though(I just went out and looked since my door panel is still off). Regardless, you have to loosen that cog first, otherwise you risk breaking the window or manipulating the plastic holders in a way that the window will merely fall back into it's old position.

Yea.... I guess like in this video(down below). It's amazing how there are no videos out there on how to adjust the windows on a e82 or e92 car.

Adjust those "cogs" like this guy is saying/showing...

Uh guess I'm not lucky...no c spanner

I need to raise my glass maybe 1/8-1/4 of an inch...can I do it w the torx? Or do I run the risk of shattering the glass?
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      10-20-2017, 08:05 PM   #13
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I think that shattering the glass is absolute worst case scenario and very unlikely, but it's also possible to spin those things without a C spanner. I used an allen wrench on one of mine, stripped the second, and used a pipe wrench on the next one. I've read of others using channel lock pliers as well. I'd take the time and do it right. Especially if you're adjusting upward like you said. The door panel comes off easily and working on small mechanisms is always easier when you can see them. Also, your window will have to be in the fully lowered position to reach the adjustment screws from the access holes on the bottom of the door.

I'm going to grab one of the old adjusters from the garage and look more closely at it so that this can be put to rest.
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      10-20-2017, 08:15 PM   #14
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Confirmed - we do NOT have the adjustment screws whatsoever and must solely rely on the pinch point to make any adjustments to glass position.

Sorry for the confusion.
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      10-20-2017, 08:30 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jorgensen54 View Post
Confirmed - we do NOT have the adjustment screws whatsoever and must solely rely on the pinch point to make any adjustments to glass position.

Sorry for the confusion.
ok so access from UNDER the door is not possible at all? i need to go the ol' fashioned way and drop the window, take the trim off and go from there?
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      10-20-2017, 08:43 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twhill19 View Post
ok so access from UNDER the door is not possible at all? i need to go the ol' fashioned way and drop the window, take the trim off and go from there?
Correct. You might be able to fish around through the access hole with a C spanner(which you don't have), but it'd be much easier for you to remove the door panel.
Reiterated, snap the decorative trim off of the door pull-handle. There are 2 screws behind here. The third screw, look in the storage pocket near the rear of the door. There's a small tab that you'll need to remove to get to the last screw. Lastly, pop your window controls out and disconnect.
Then, starting from the top corner nearest your A-pillar, begin pulling the door panel off of the door. Be careful, the speaker wires are still connected. Oddly, none of the tabs broke in this car which they're very prone to doing so if you've ever removed interior panels.
You can cleanly remove the sound deadening insulation with a blade so that you can reapply it. Go slow, it tears easily. Then voila, you should see the guts that you'll need to perform surgery on.
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      10-20-2017, 08:49 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jorgensen54 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Twhill19 View Post
ok so access from UNDER the door is not possible at all? i need to go the ol' fashioned way and drop the window, take the trim off and go from there?
Correct. You might be able to fish around through the access hole with a C spanner(which you don't have), but it'd be much easier for you to remove the door panel.
Reiterated, snap the decorative trim off of the door pull-handle. There are 2 screws behind here. The third screw, look in the storage pocket near the rear of the door. There's a small tab that you'll need to remove to get to the last screw. Lastly, pop your window controls out and disconnect.
Then, starting from the top corner nearest your A-pillar, begin pulling the door panel off of the door. Be careful, the speaker wires are still connected. Oddly, none of the tabs broke in this car which they're very prone to doing so if you've ever removed interior panels.
You can cleanly remove the sound deadening insulation with a blade so that you can reapply it. Go slow, it tears easily. Then voila, you should see the guts that you'll need to perform surgery on.
Got it thanks. I've done it before but just messing around I didn't have it all the way off just undid screws etc thx
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      10-20-2017, 08:52 PM   #18
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No problem. Best of luck - let us know how it goes!
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      10-21-2017, 05:46 AM   #19
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I've rarely broken a door trim clip on a BMW group car, which is surprising because every other plastic thing in the car is made of rice crackers. The only time they break is if some gorilla has just smashed the trim back on without first lining up the holes.
My only tip is to pay attention to the black foam seals/rings that may still be attached to the door when you pull the trim off. They are easy to lose track of and if omitted, rattling noises may occur. Best is to inspect your door trim clips after removing it to see which clips are missing the foam seal, then look at where that clip goes into the door.

Use proper plastic trim tools. The kits are cheap. Use the wedge near the A pillar to raise the trim slightly, then the flat chisel-like tool to figure where the clips are with the help of a light.

If you are adjusting the window with this door trim removed method, you will need an assistant inside the car to tighten/loosen the adjustment clamps for you while you hold the glass in position.

How much does the dealer want to charge you?
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      10-21-2017, 04:30 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juld0zer View Post

How much does the dealer want to charge you?
A few years ago my dealer charged me 1/2 hour's labor rate to adjust my passenger window height for wind noise at 125 mph. No really, that is what I was complaining about. They made an improvement but they didn't totally eliminate the wind noise.

I think most dealers would charge an hour's labor rate. I have a pretty good relationship with my BMW Zentrum.


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      10-21-2017, 08:45 PM   #21
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Dackel, you're such a speedster. I've barely touched 120mph in my 1er... So I have no idea what kind of parts I'll be losing if I exceeded that (glued on homemade CF spoiler )
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      10-23-2017, 03:42 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by juld0zer View Post

How much does the dealer want to charge you?
A few years ago my dealer charged me 1/2 hour's labor rate to adjust my passenger window height for wind noise at 125 mph. No really, that is what I was complaining about. They made an improvement but they didn't totally eliminate the wind noise.

I think most dealers would charge an hour's labor rate. I have a pretty good relationship with my BMW Zentrum.


Dackel
My dealer wanted $600-$700 bucks for this claiming 4.5 labor hours plus parts...eat a sock
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