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02-19-2017, 03:28 PM | #45 | |
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https://1drv.ms/v/s!Al6eqOzp-TL6iyTkjaMzbbxTQ3Cp Very strange that the reading spikes and then disappears quickly. I'll add that I had this hooked up at the FRONT of the car (using a battery charger as power source) and was able to hold a reading. But using the standard battery approach isn't working. |
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02-19-2017, 03:58 PM | #46 |
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Well, I'm stumped! It looks like you have everything hooked up the same way I did, but I was able to hold a reading on my meter. I did notice that when the meter probe slipped off the negative terminal that it seemed to wake the car up and I'd have to wait for it to go into sleep mode again. But it still held the reading for the whole time. Sorry I can't be of more help.
What symptoms are you having that make you suspect a parasitic drain? Sorry if I missed that. It may help a more knowledgeable member figure it out. Craig |
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02-19-2017, 04:36 PM | #47 | |
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Hoping for some other suggestions before breaking down and going to the dealer. It shouldn't be this hard..... |
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02-19-2017, 05:48 PM | #48 | |
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The fuse inside your meter may be blown, not sure if the settings on yours but usually if you exceed what ever amperage it is set to you could blow the fuse. Do you have comfort access? |
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02-19-2017, 05:56 PM | #49 | |
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If it's an issue the glovebox isn't that hard to remove to access the fuse panel more easily. |
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02-19-2017, 06:59 PM | #50 | |
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To reiterate, the battery tested good and is the proper BMW unit coded by the dealer 2 years ago. No comfort access |
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02-20-2017, 12:34 AM | #51 | |
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Thing is you should really make sure there is a draw before going crazy... maybe take the cover off the back of the meter and check the fuses. |
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02-21-2017, 07:08 PM | #53 | |
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Engine / Motor: - Fault: DME digital motor electronics main relay, switching delay - Code: 002ACC - Fault: Power Management - Code: 002DEC - Fault: Misfire detection cylinder 3 in 2 Firing order - Code: 0029CF - Fault: Misfire cyl. 6 - Code: 0029D2 - Fault: Misfire detection error summation - Code: 0029CC the first one seems to indicate the main relay may be the problem. worth changing? where is it on the fusebox? |
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02-21-2017, 07:53 PM | #54 |
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The main relay is in the ecu box, it`s the big black cubic thing that looks like a relay
2DED is common with a worn battery (need replacement) and sometime corroded IBS wiring. Are you able to read the IBS data ? (what diagnostic equipment do you have ?)
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02-21-2017, 08:04 PM | #55 | |
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2ACCME digital motor electronics main relay, switching delay *** Fault-Set 1 - ( 94776 km) status Motorsteürung: 5.00 0-n Supply driving encoder 1: 4.96 V Voltage cl. 15 raw value: 0.94 V Voltage cl. 87: 5.59 V Fault-Set 2 - ( 94776 km) status Motorsteürung: 0.00 0-n Supply driving encoder 1: 4.96 V Voltage cl. 15 raw value: 1.11 V Voltage cl. 87: 6.91 V *** 2DEC:Power Management *** Fault-Set 1 - ( 94776 km) Battery voltage of IBS measured: 14.00 - Motorabstellzeit: 0.00 min Status prior consumer registers part 1: 0.00 - Status prior consumer registers part 2: 0.00 - Fault-Set 2 - ( 94776 km) Battery voltage of IBS measured: 8.82 - Motorabstellzeit: 0.00 min Status prior consumer registers part 1: 0.00 - Status prior consumer registers part 2: 128.00 - Fault-Set 3 - ( 94800 km) Battery voltage of IBS measured: 14.00 - Motorabstellzeit: 0.00 min Status prior consumer registers part 1: 0.00 - Status prior consumer registers part 2: 0.00 - Is that helpful in any way? I'll add that I tore the glovebox out and did a voltage test across all fuses in the box with the car asleep. the only fuse with a reading (negative .02) was fuse #50. I'm not sure what to make of a negative reading though. I cant tell what fuse 50 is for based on the diagram it looks like maybe wipers. |
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02-21-2017, 10:47 PM | #56 |
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.02 or .002? Big difference. And if you switch the leads it should go to a positive reading... If the dme relay is sticking that could deff cause a draw, but also when the voltage drops low on these cars they tend to set all kinds of weird codes so that's a possibility as to that code as well.
The key is you really need to get a good read on the amperage going through the negitive cable weather via inductive amp clamp tool or a old school method with a dvom. This way you at least know for sure if you have a draw or not. Also you should think about having that battery tested. |
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02-22-2017, 11:18 PM | #57 |
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8.82v is way too low. You might have a defective cell in your battery.
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02-23-2017, 10:11 AM | #58 | |
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Resting fully charged 12 volt batteries are around 12.8-12.9 volts, and flat dead ones are at 12.0 volts, so 12.4 volts on a resting battery means it’s about 50% charged. 8.8 is VERY bad.
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02-23-2017, 03:12 PM | #59 | |
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It appears that the IBS code shows voltage got as low as 8.8 right? Since then, I have had the battery tested twice as "good". Stock battery, coded properly at dealer. I can now go two days (from full charge) and it will start. Any longer and it wont. Could the battery test be wrong, maybe a dead cell in there that is fooling us? |
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02-26-2017, 04:11 PM | #60 |
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At this point if your battery has been discharged to such a low level on so many occasions it's probably just ruined, specially if it's not an AGM.
Replace, register and adjust the capacity/type if necessary. Battery test are to be taken with a huge grain of salt. These automated tester are only has good as the data they are given; and so far my experience is that most place don't punch in the proper data for an accurate test and the fully automatic units are a guess.
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04-17-2017, 11:55 AM | #61 | |
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I went on driving the car using a ctek charger in between and found that the car would only start once per charge cycle. Then later not at all even thought the voltage registerred 13.5 after a charge, an attempt to start would pull it down to 11. Lesson learned, just replace the dang battery before trying anything else. Runs like a champ now. |
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