10-18-2011, 05:08 PM | #1 |
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Winter storage sugestions...
Hi guys, just waxed my baby, soon it will go to sleep for winter, i,m gonna put the 1m car cover.. But i,m a big baby, i want to start it and move it a little bit during winter time ..., do you think it,s bad for the car to run a little without diving it.. I know the baterie is goin to run out, but any sugestion on how to behave with my m..? And what are you guys doing for winter storage..
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10-18-2011, 05:23 PM | #2 |
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Why don't you put a battery tender on it. I do it to my motorcycles all the time thru the winter. I've found it to prolong the life of a battery, rather than letting it die and recharging it after every winter. It's super low power and will not overcharge the battery.
http://batterytender.com/automotive.html
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10-18-2011, 05:44 PM | #3 |
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If you start it occasionally, I'd let it run 20 minutes or so to ensure all the moisture is evaporated out of the exhaust and oil.
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10-18-2011, 07:14 PM | #4 | |
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10-18-2011, 07:25 PM | #6 |
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I read you shouldn't put on a cover and should leave gap in the windows.
Otherwise moisture will accumulate. Also you should inflate your tires close to MAX so you don't get a flat spot from parking there all the time And invest in a carbubble :P
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10-18-2011, 07:26 PM | #7 |
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I also put stabilizer in the fuel to prep my street and track bikes, along with the tender. They only sit approx 5 months, but it's an added precaution for the fuel not to gum up. I've never tried stabilizer in a car, though.
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10-18-2011, 07:28 PM | #8 |
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The battery should be kept in a temperature controlled area ie indoors. I wouldnt start it either, it serves no purpose other than wear your engine needlessly. Also I normally add a little pressure to my tires but with RFT Im not sure if thats even required, I assume not.
Also use fuel stabilizer and moth bolls around the car to try and keep animals away but in any case clog up your exhaust with an oily rag to prevent them getting in. |
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10-18-2011, 08:56 PM | #10 |
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that moisture will kill it
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10-18-2011, 09:12 PM | #11 | |
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Some people say to go by the 20/20 rule. IF you start the engine... run it less than 20 seconds. IF you have to run it longer... drive the car for at least 20 minutes. Don't forget to pump up the tires(over inflate) for storage and use some fuel stabilzer(esp if your area has ethanol in the fuel). Change the oil before you put the car in storage and once again before you start using the car for next summer. |
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10-19-2011, 03:45 AM | #13 |
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with my 1M it is the first time i will not be driving the car during winter -
will park the car in an underground parking lot will inflate the tires to max maybe i buy one of those battery tenders when there is a socket nearby but what is the difference between the bmw indoor and outdoor car cover? (the parts guy at the dealer didnt know either other than the indoor cover is more expensive) and what about these moisture issues?
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10-19-2011, 07:55 AM | #15 | |
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Moister where? Inside the car? Put some of those water absorber gell packs inside the car. They will absorb any moister. Or did you mean between the paint and car cover? |
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10-19-2011, 08:26 AM | #16 |
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Ill be storing mine as well.... and modding it in the garage lol
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10-19-2011, 08:35 AM | #17 | |
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Better to leave her uncovered.
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10-19-2011, 10:20 AM | #18 |
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so i guess the breathable-feature is what makes the bmw indoor cover more expensvie then...
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10-19-2011, 01:02 PM | #19 |
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The November issue of Car and Driver has a 'how to' on winter storage. It doesn't look like it is posted to their website yet, but here is the gist:
Step 1 - Drive the car to bring the fluids up to temp and burn off any water condensation. Also change oil and filter. Step 2 - Add fuel conditioners. Step 3 - Top off the fuel tank to keep any water condensation from occurring. Step 4 - Pertained to carburetted engines. Step 5 - Spray a light mist of WD-40 into the intake while cranking the engine to give the cylinders and intake valves corrosion protection. (not sure how necessary this is) Step 6 - Unless the garage is heated, remove the battery and keep it in a warm place and on a trickle charger. Step 7 - Flush the coolant. (probably not necessary because the coolant is still relatively fresh in these cars) Step 8 - Put in some moisture absorbing silica packets in the car. Tape up the exhaust to keep rodents out of it. Step 9 - Increase the tire pressure, or put the car on jack stands.
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10-19-2011, 02:22 PM | #20 |
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10-19-2011, 03:32 PM | #21 | |
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The problem is also to get some decent pair of winter shoes on this athlete. Apparently the 270M OEM look ridiculous specially without spacer. |
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10-19-2011, 04:15 PM | #22 |
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My 1M is November production so It won't be broken in until next spring so I don't want to change the oil or add stabilizer since its a brand new car. Planning on getting the indoor BMW cover hopefully that helps, along with being in heated underground
Would taking it out for a drive on nice dry days be a bad idea? Or should I just let it sit and not start it up at all |
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