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12-03-2014, 11:48 PM | #1 |
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Just painted...now clear bra?
I've got my 2013 CPO 135i vert in Jet Black just out of the body shop, where I had the bumper, hood and left fender re-painted to very good effect. There was immeasurable rock chip damage that I just couldn't abide by. (CPO indeed...certified in every way, except for the front-end cosmetics. :-/)
Anyway, looks great now with a perfect color match and a nice thick clearcoat, and I'm wondering if I should bother with a clear bra over jet black or not. Anyone have any experience doing one over this color? And if so, what type of film and/or installer is recommended? Thanks in advance. |
12-03-2014, 11:51 PM | #2 |
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Yes but you need to wait for the paint to fully cure, min of 4 weeks but suggested time of 6-8 weeks. And that's the tough part, how to keep the bumper pristine over that time period.
Avoid 3M, Xpel's ok but doesn't adhere the best. I prefer Suntek which is what I have on my 135 (front bumper, headlights, mirrors, rockers and partial hood) |
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12-04-2014, 08:37 AM | #3 |
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Bra looks ugly plus traps moisture. The methods used to attach this hideous item can also cause chaffing to the paint. Also anything that hits the bra hard enough will transmit the force through to its underlying surface.
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12-06-2014, 11:46 AM | #4 |
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I also recently had my front bumper repainted on my 2011 Jet Black (it got a little too "intimate" with another car in a parking lot). Although I didn't end up getting a film installed, I looked into it pretty extensively. The guy at the body shop recommended a minimum of 2-weeks to allow the paint to fully cure, although I suspect longer is generally better, as 3002 said. I also spoke with a couple local installers, and it seemed the general consensus was that XPEL is a tougher film, but Suntek is easier to work with, and thus you're more likely to get an attractive application with the Suntek. After all that, I just didn't feel like spending the $$ to protect the front bumper when the hood still had several rock chips.
It seems a lot of folks are pretty anti-3M, but FWIW, the 3M film on my dad's VO 1M has held up great over the past 2 years. I think it may just be a matter of getting a good installer to put it on, and keeping the car stored out of the sun.
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2011 135i DCT | Jet Black
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12-07-2014, 08:43 AM | #5 |
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Chaffing? You sure you're not confused with a traditional leather bra? The clear film does no such thing.
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12-07-2014, 10:47 AM | #6 |
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Are you people little boys or real men? Real men head into adversity little concerned that a few bug will hit them in the face. Besides a little wear on it shows some maturity!
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12-07-2014, 11:25 AM | #7 | |
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OP: Nothing wrong with a high quality clear-bra. Though, if it were me, I'd wait for the paint to cure, then have a detailing shop do a full paint correction and opti-coat the whole car instead. Or you can do the work yourself. However you like to fly!
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12-07-2014, 02:18 PM | #8 | |
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Years of tracking will make your bumper look like crap. It's not bugs I'm worried about but road debris being pelted at your bumper from someone's 315 r-comps in front of you. If I can avoid the sandblasted look for a mere $300, I'll take that trade any day. |
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12-07-2014, 07:13 PM | #9 |
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Here's My Experience FWIW
I have a 2009 135i Crimson Red with the factory (VentureShield) clear bra, and also a Grey VW Passat with the 3M product I installed myself. My brother has a 2005 911 C2S in black with clear bra including full hood. Here are my observations and conclusions about these products over many years and miles, including track time:
1. These films, regardless of brand, do an excellent job of protecting the vehicle from impacts, stone chips, bug damage, etc., including more serious impacts that would have resulted in paint work being needed (e.g. your elderly father drops his motorcycle on your bumper!). 2. They should not be thought of as a way to protect the underlying paint, but rather, as a resilient surface finish which is more durable and looks better for many more years/miles than a painted surface alone. 3. Depending upon how long the product has been installed, heat and sunlight exposure, and individual product characteristics, they can be fairly difficult to remove. Best bet if you are going for a like-new finish indefinitely would be to replace the film every 3 - 5 years. 4. Installation of these products over a repainted (not factory) finish will run the risk of paint lift upon removal, regardless of cure time. This is actually governed by the quality of the repaint, including products used, surface prep, and other factors. Overall, my experience has been very positive, and until the vehicle manufacturers come up with a more durable surface finish, this may be the best solution for keeping our cars looking new for as long as possible. Hope this helps. |
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12-07-2014, 08:30 PM | #10 | |
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You clearly know nothing, your first post didn't even cover the correct item were discussing. My clear bra is "hideous" I'm clearly not a man at all [img]http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...rt4_zps8629d65[/IMG] |
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12-09-2014, 01:07 AM | #11 |
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As was mentioned, Xpel and Suntek is what we normally install and both are great films. Our installer prefers to work with Suntek as it has an easier adhesive to apply, whereas I like it because it provides a more clear look than Xpel. However both are great and unless you're looking at them side by side (on some paints they're similar anyway) you definitely can't go wrong with either. Xpel does have a longer warranty for what it's worth.
In my opinion, well worth the investment after repainting the front end. Ivan @ DI |
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12-15-2014, 10:39 AM | #12 |
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I would agree Xpel Ultimate is the way to go, it's a great way to protect the high impact areas, as well we have customers that wrap the complete car, hence really no more swirls or correction, as the film is self healing.
Wait about 30-45 days before wrapping the car. |
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