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      05-05-2017, 02:51 PM   #23
Kgolf31
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Hey Zach,

Recently I finished up on my FRS detail. It's a new car, so it hit it with M205 on Orange HDO pad, PO85RD on a Black HDO Pad (using a Makita 9227c).

I followed up with Gtechniq Panel Wipe and applied C1. I have C2v3 Liquid Crystal I still need to apply, but don't know if I missed the mark on when to apply. I wanted to give C1 enough time to cure, and assumed I can do C2v3 during a wash, is this correct?

Following up from that. Do you recommend/think it's necessary to top over C2v3 with any type of wax? I have DodoJuice Rainforest Rub and Hard Candy sitting on my shelf, figured if I had some downtime I'd hit the car with that combo.

Thanks,

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      05-08-2017, 10:11 AM   #24
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I love that car!

You can apply C2 anytime you would like after the C1 has completed its initial cure.

I would recommend using C2 every month or so after a proper maintenance wash to boost protection and maintain maximum hydrophobic properties.

I would not top your coating with any type of traditional wax or sealant. Stick to C2 for added protection, and/or basic quick detailer/spray wax type stuff after washes.
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      06-22-2017, 01:22 PM   #25
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I bought my Deep Sea (dark, sparkly) Blue Metallic 2012 135i 2 years ago, and though it's needed a detail ever since, it has not yet received one. Did clay bar it once, and it helped, but not much. Wax every 3 months or so, or when it stops beading. But there are deeper problems which need to be addressed.

Main issue is water spots on the hood that were there when I got it.. There is also quite a bit of spider webbing, all over.

I have been alternating between Ultimate No-Rinse (which I usually rinse lightly anyway) and Meguiars Ultimate Wash&Wax shampoo, depending upon level of contamination and available time. I've loved Meguiars since I discovered about 15 years ago how much easier their wax is to remove than anything else I had used. Recently picked up Clay Bar Kit (including spray detailer), M105 Ultra Cut, M205 Ultra Finish, Show Car Glaze #7, and Ultimate Wax Liquid (which isn't wax at all, but a polymer protective sealant.)
I have a 10" Costco "Waxmaster" orbital polisher somewhere, but haven't seen it since the move. Don't have a decent variable-speed dual-action 6" random orbital sander yet, but have a friend with a 7424XP. May borrow, may buy. Planning on 2 or 3 each Orange (cut), white (finish) and black (glaze and wax) pads. Plenty of clean microfiber towels.

We're having a car show at work next Thursday, and I'd like my car looking its best.
But I'm out of town this weekend, and won't have a 6-8 hour block of time available to do the whole exterior at once.

So, what I'm planning is:
Wash with Meg's Ultimate Sunday night, to get the big pieces off.
Probably do engine bay and interior that night, too.

Wash with Dawn Monday after work to strip wax and decontaminate.
Clay Bar Monday night, after strip/clean.

Cut Tuesday evening.
Finish Tuesday night after cut.

Glaze Wednesday evening.
Rub down with Denatured Alcohol.
Ultimate Wax.

So I'm wondering:

a) if I can find it, should I try to get suitable pads for the 10" polisher? Or just chuck it and get a nice one so as to not damage my finish?

b) is Black the right pad for both the Glaze and the "Wax"?

c) am I shooting myself in the foot by spreading it out over several days? Car is garaged at night, but it's my DD so just sits out in the parking lot at work during the day.

d) would I use Spray Detailer or ONR or Something Else or Nothing at the start of each evening's events to get off the day's contamination?

e) would there be any benefit to applying a second coat of the Ultimate Wax either right after the first, or first thing the next morning?

f) where in the process do you recommend doing lights, glass, tire spray and plastic trim? There's always a little overspray from those, and very likely some from the polishes and sealer. I wipe it off as best I can, but want to get the best appearance and longest-lasting protection I can.

Thanks for any advice you can offer!
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      06-27-2017, 10:10 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjswarbrick View Post
...
So, what I'm planning is:
Wash with Meg's Ultimate Sunday night, to get the big pieces off.
Probably do engine bay and interior that night, too.
I would start with the engine bay as you will get water all over the front of the car as you are rinsing the engine bay. Clean the engine, blow it dry, close the hood, then proceed with washing the exterior of the car. Once the exterior is clean, pop the hood again, dry off any remaining water, then apply a water based dressing to the engine covers, tubing, etc.

Wash with Dawn Monday after work to strip wax and decontaminate.
Clay Bar Monday night, after strip/clean.
There is no need for dawn in detailing... just use your normal car washing shampoo. If you want deep cleaning, double the recommended dilution ratio of the shampoo.

Cut Tuesday evening.
Finish Tuesday night after cut.
If your vehicle is truly in need of a full paint correction, you're quite ambitious to tackle the compounding and polishing in one evening... this process typically takes us a minimum of around 8 hours on a small car. Don't rush this process as it will make the most dramatic difference in the final results of the entire project.

Glaze Wednesday evening.
Rub down with Denatured Alcohol.
Ultimate Wax.
There is no need to apply a glaze if you were able to properly correct your paint, however you can still chose to do so if you wish. The visual difference will likely be slim to none. A glaze can be an easy way to enhance gloss in say, 6 months, instead of polishing the car. A glaze can temporarily fill in minor defects to help boost the gloss, but it is important to understand it is only temporary. It is very important to properly maintain your vehicle to minimize any superficial damage.

So I'm wondering:

a) if I can find it, should I try to get suitable pads for the 10" polisher? Or just chuck it and get a nice one so as to not damage my finish?
Honestly, I would not buy anything for that machine. It will not perform well with paint correction work. The pads are too large and the machine is not powerful enough to achieve the results you need with paint correction. These big 10" DA machines are really just for spreading wax.

I would highly recommend the Griot's Garage 6" Random Orbital Polisher. Purchase a 5" backing plate and 3" backing plate, along with an assortment of pads.

Griot's Garage 3rd Gen DA Polisher - Affordable, Effective, Reliable, and most of all SAFE FOR EVERYONE TO USE! This product is backed by a lifetime manufacturer warranty.

5" Backing Plate
3" Backing Plate

Microfiber Cutting Discs - Great for removing heavier defects or for working with harder paint
Lake Country 5.5 and 3 Foam Pads (I recommend Orange Light Cutting Pads, White Polishing Pads, Black Finishing Pads, and Blue Fine Finishing Pads)
*I recommend a minimum of 2 of each pad in each size





b) is Black the right pad for both the Glaze and the "Wax"?
Yes, a black finishing pad or blue fine finishing pad should work fine for either.

c) am I shooting myself in the foot by spreading it out over several days? Car is garaged at night, but it's my DD so just sits out in the parking lot at work during the day.
Not necessarily... you'll just have to clean the car each day prior to beginning your task for that day.

d) would I use Spray Detailer or ONR or Something Else or Nothing at the start of each evening's events to get off the day's contamination?
Yes, you should absolutely clean the car if it has been driven. ONR would be a great option.

e) would there be any benefit to applying a second coat of the Ultimate Wax either right after the first, or first thing the next morning?
Sure, an additional coat of wax might help to enhance gloss just a touch... I personally prefer to use spray detailers/spray waxes to add a bit more pop if needed because they are quicker and easier to use.

f) where in the process do you recommend doing lights, glass, tire spray and plastic trim? There's always a little overspray from those, and very likely some from the polishes and sealer. I wipe it off as best I can, but want to get the best appearance and longest-lasting protection I can.
Not sure what you're doing with the lights... unless they need to be restored? If so, I would do that first as you will make a mess wet sanding and polishing.

I dress the tires right after drying the car so the dressing has plenty of time to soak into the rubber before I drive the car. When used properly, there will be no slinging.

Dress the trim after the car has been properly washed and dried. Again, when done properly, there should be no "overspray". Apply the dressing directly onto an applicator pad, and wipe only the areas that need to be treated.

Glass can be cleaned at any time after the vehicle has been washed and dried. I tend to make glass cleaning one of my very last steps.

Don't forget to polish the exhaust tips either


Thanks for any advice you can offer!
See comments above in blue text

Let me know if you have any other questions.

-Zach
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      06-27-2017, 12:47 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg@DetailedImage View Post
See comments above in blue text

Let me know if you have any other questions.

-Zach
Thank you, Zach!

I didn't have any time Sunday, so began the process in earnest last night. Looks liked I followed your instructions pretty well, even though you hadn't posted them yet.

Started with interior, then engine bay, and wheels. Then some 303 on the top.
Gave 'er a 2-bucket, 2-mitt wash with the Meguiars Ultimate Wash & Wax, followed by clay bar using their detail spray, and wiping down with the microfiber they provided in the box. Was still wet and smeary, so went over it with Optimum Spray Wax and a new, dry microfiber.
I followed that up with cleaning glass, and treating plastic and rubber. Lights don't require restoration - I just hit 'em with window cleaner once I finish the windows.
It looks sharp, but not nearly as deep and glossy as I know it should. I can also see spider webbing and water spots which have been there since I bought it.

I don't expect to do this too often, but want to do it right when I do, so picked up the Harbor Freight variable-speed random-orbit 6" polisher. Ordered 2 each 6.5" Lake Country orange, white and black pads - along with cleaner and a brush - which just came in last night.

I didn't get the little pads. I was planning to use terry wax applicators and microfiber towels for the places the 6.5" don't do well. If I put much more into equipment I may as well have brought it to a professional. Foolish decision?

On your advice, perhaps I'll forgo the glaze this time. I used it once before, and it did perhaps enhance the gloss under the wax, but didn't do a thing for the finish.

Got the message re: Dishsoap. I've read that cutting and sealing work better on a surface free of previous layers of wax. Any benefit to wiping down with denatured alcohol before either of those steps?

Is there a product you recommend for conditioning/protecting BMW canvas convertible tops? I used 303 to clean it, but the only protectants I've seen are for vinyl.

I got a lot more done in one night than I expected, but see there's still quite a job ahead of me. Luckily I don't need to cut/polish/wax the roof, so that saves quite a bit of time. Should have an old twin fitted sheet I can cover the top and windows with after doing the header.
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Last edited by tjswarbrick; 06-27-2017 at 12:59 PM.
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      07-05-2017, 10:28 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjswarbrick View Post
...

Started with interior, then engine bay, and wheels. Then some 303 on the top.
Gave 'er a 2-bucket, 2-mitt wash with the Meguiars Ultimate Wash & Wax, followed by clay bar using their detail spray, and wiping down with the microfiber they provided in the box. Was still wet and smeary, so went over it with Optimum Spray Wax and a new, dry microfiber.
In the future, there is no sense in using a spray wax on the vehicle that you are prepping for paint correction.
Spray waxes/quick detailers can temporarily mask/fill defects which may effect how you proceed with the paint correction process.
There is no need to perfectly dry a vehicle to a streak free finish if you intend on compounding and polishing it. Save a little time and effort.


...

I don't expect to do this too often, but want to do it right when I do, so picked up the Harbor Freight variable-speed random-orbit 6" polisher. Ordered 2 each 6.5" Lake Country orange, white and black pads - along with cleaner and a brush - which just came in last night.

I didn't get the little pads. I was planning to use terry wax applicators and microfiber towels for the places the 6.5" don't do well.
You can certainly polish by hand, but it will not be as effective as machine polishing. Spending an extra $30 or so on a few small pads and a backing plate is really worth it if you want uniform results.

If I put much more into equipment I may as well have brought it to a professional. Foolish decision?
I don't believe that is a fair assessment. I've helped many, many, many people purchase everything they need to get started with paint correction, and this can typically be accomplished for anywhere between $250-$500 depending on their goals and budget. Our multi-step paint correction services start at ~$800 for a smaller vehicle. Also, if you invest in the tools and products for yourself, you can keep your vehicles looking their best forever, so the savings is quite significant over the course of ownership compared to paying a professional Sure there are "cheap" professionals out there... but the saying "you get what you pay for"
is typically very true in the detailing world, especially with regards to proper paint correction work.


...

Got the message re: Dishsoap. I've read that cutting and sealing work better on a surface free of previous layers of wax. Any benefit to wiping down with denatured alcohol before either of those steps?
Dishsoap is a degreaser, and it can leave a film behind. There are degreasers made for use in automotive applications (click here). Mixing any car wash shampoo heavily (ie stronger than the recommended dilution ratio) will help to deep clean the surface and degrade any existing waxes or sealants. There is no way to know they are completely removed regardless of if you use a degreaser or not. A solvent, like isopropyalcohol, can help remove existing LSP. If you feel it is needed, go for it. IPA is often used after compounding and after polishing to remove any residual oils and to ensure the finish is perfect.

Is there a product you recommend for conditioning/protecting BMW canvas convertible tops? I used 303 to clean it, but the only protectants I've seen are for vinyl.
Absolutely. Since you mentioned 303, I will point you towards their fabric protectant. 303 Fabric Guard.

Product Review: 303 Fabric Guard by Zach McGovern
Sorry for the delayed response...

See answers above in blue

-Zach
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      07-06-2017, 09:31 AM   #29
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Bad touchup paint job

Zach,

The previous owner did a horrible job of repairing a bunch of rock chips on my 2012 Marrakesh brown 135i. They just kind of blobbed the touch up paint on each spot and moved on. How would you go about fixing that

Thanks,
Neil
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      07-06-2017, 09:49 AM   #30
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Quote:
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Zach,

The previous owner did a horrible job of repairing a bunch of rock chips on my 2012 Marrakesh brown 135i. They just kind of blobbed the touch up paint on each spot and moved on. How would you go about fixing that

Thanks,
Neil
Hey Neil - unfortunately this is quite common. Most people do exactly as you describe... just blob some paint on there and call it a day.

Fixing this blobby mess can be a bit of a chore, especially after the paint is completely cured.

For the sake of following the golden rule of "always use the least aggressive method", I would start by applying a bit of mineral spirits or lacquer thinner to a towel, wrapping the wet part of the towel around your finger, and rubbing a blob to see if you can reduce the height of it with the solvent. Since the paint has likely been on there a while, I wouldn't expect this to work very well, but you never know. Worth a shot.

If the solvent has no effect, and you trust yourself to have a steady hand, the next step would be to level each blob with sand paper. The trick here is that you will want to avoid surrounding paint, and focus your efforts only on the tiny touch up blob. Once you have them knocked down, it should blend in with the rest of the panel better than before, you will likely need to feather your sanding into the surrounding areas a bit to help with the transition, but keep in mind this will never look as good as a proper repaint. When you're satisfied with your sanding, it is time to compound and polish the areas to restore gloss to the finish.

**Remember that OEM paint surrounding the touch up blobs is surprisingly thin, so it is very important to be aware of exactly where you are sanding so you do not burn through the paint when you are attempting to level the touchup paint**



Of course the final alternative is to take the vehicle to the body shop, have them strip and fill the chips, and repaint the entire panel so it looks like new.


Hope that helps!!

-Zach
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      07-06-2017, 09:55 AM   #31
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I was pretty sure you were going to say something like that. Was just hoping maybe you had a magic bullet. Unfortunately there are a couple dozen chips repaired this way. I'll give the lacquer thinner a try on one but if it doesn't work I do not trust myself to sand that many chips without making it worse...
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      07-06-2017, 12:02 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by traintrax View Post
I was pretty sure you were going to say something like that. Was just hoping maybe you had a magic bullet. Unfortunately there are a couple dozen chips repaired this way. I'll give the lacquer thinner a try on one but if it doesn't work I do not trust myself to sand that many chips without making it worse...
I am by no means a "body shop guy", so there may be some other method that can help you out, but I am not familiar with one myself.

Best of luck!!

-Zach
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      07-07-2017, 08:18 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by traintrax View Post
Zach,

The previous owner did a horrible job of repairing a bunch of rock chips on my 2012 Marrakesh brown 135i. They just kind of blobbed the touch up paint on each spot and moved on. How would you go about fixing that

Thanks,
Neil
Neil- I hate to butt in on Zach's thread, (thanks for starting it!) but I had the same issue on my 128i. There's a product called Langka that is designed to remove touch up blobs. It worked perfectly for me, and the touch up paint had cured hard. There was no detectable damage to the clearcoat. It took quite a bit of rubbing, but it was worth it. It's also designed to work with factory touch up paint sticks. You can get it on Amazon here:
https://www.amazon.com/Langka-LANGKA...eywords=langka
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      07-07-2017, 08:44 AM   #34
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I was not aware Langka would work on old repairs. I have used it in the past and probably still have an old bottle. I'll probably get a fresh bottle and give it a try and see if it will clean up one of the old chip repairs. What did you use as an applicator? Something wrapped over their blue card or something softer?

Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by minirips2 View Post
Neil- I hate to butt in on Zach's thread, (thanks for starting it!) but I had the same issue on my 128i. There's a product called Langka that is designed to remove touch up blobs. It worked perfectly for me, and the touch up paint had cured hard. There was no detectable damage to the clearcoat. It took quite a bit of rubbing, but it was worth it. It's also designed to work with factory touch up paint sticks. You can get it on Amazon here:
https://www.amazon.com/Langka-LANGKA...eywords=langka
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      07-07-2017, 09:28 AM   #35
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Thanks for chiming in with your experiences

I was familiar with products of this nature, but they all seemed to imply that the "blob remover" needed to be used shortly after applying the touch up paint. Since I had no experience, I was not sure if it would have any effect on paint that had been applied months or years prior.

traintrax - if you do try a product like this, take some before/after pictures, or a video showing us how it works!!

-Zach
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      07-07-2017, 12:27 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by traintrax View Post
I was not aware Langka would work on old repairs. I have used it in the past and probably still have an old bottle. I'll probably get a fresh bottle and give it a try and see if it will clean up one of the old chip repairs. What did you use as an applicator? Something wrapped over their blue card or something softer?

Thanks.
I just use a lintless fiber rag. The kind that are sold for window cleaning. Might have been from Griot's. I just used my finger for pressure because I was going to start from scratch (hate that word!) on the damage area with Dr Colorchip. The repair turned out well, but honestly, I was expecting a better color match from the colorchip guys, since that's all they do. The color looked good from the bottle, but ended up appearing more orange than the original paint. I had the same results with the chili red paint on my '03 MINI. So now you know why I go by minirips2 !
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      07-07-2017, 12:31 PM   #37
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I am worried about the color match as well. I have Marrakesh Brown and the current chip fixes are darker brown with no metallic flakes. I was thinking about trying the touch up pain Langka offers. Anyone have a better suggestion?


Quote:
Originally Posted by minirips2 View Post
I just use a lintless fiber rag. The kind that are sold for window cleaning. Might have been from Griot's. I just used my finger for pressure because I was going to start from scratch (hate that word!) on the damage area with Dr Colorchip. The repair turned out well, but honestly, I was expecting a better color match from the colorchip guys, since that's all they do. The color looked good from the bottle, but ended up appearing more orange than the original paint. I had the same results with the chili red paint on my '03 MINI. So now you know why I go by minirips2 !
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      07-07-2017, 12:52 PM   #38
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you might just go get the BMW dealer paint kit. The langka will help you with any excess. Get some of those tiny applicators, and you shouldn't get blobs. I use one of those magnifying visors that hobbyists use to help me see what I'm doing. Getting old is not for sissies, as George Burns famously said. Touch up paint has always been hit or miss for me, colorwise. Be patient, and if the damage spots aren't too big, you should be okay. Of course, you will always see the repairs but most people won't, and if they do, they'll know that you care enough to take care of the dings. One other thing I'll mention is that if you go with Dr Colorchip, the squeegee method did not work well for me. It either left too much touch up paint or scraped too much paint out of the chip. The theory seems sound, though. I probably just don't have the right touch.
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      07-07-2017, 02:44 PM   #39
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I was trying to avoid the crazy cost of the OEM touch up paint. I guess for my color it probably makes sense.

Quote:
Originally Posted by minirips2 View Post
you might just go get the BMW dealer paint kit. The langka will help you with any excess. Get some of those tiny applicators, and you shouldn't get blobs. I use one of those magnifying visors that hobbyists use to help me see what I'm doing. Getting old is not for sissies, as George Burns famously said. Touch up paint has always been hit or miss for me, colorwise. Be patient, and if the damage spots aren't too big, you should be okay. Of course, you will always see the repairs but most people won't, and if they do, they'll know that you care enough to take care of the dings. One other thing I'll mention is that if you go with Dr Colorchip, the squeegee method did not work well for me. It either left too much touch up paint or scraped too much paint out of the chip. The theory seems sound, though. I probably just don't have the right touch.
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      08-05-2017, 09:24 PM   #40
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Hi Greg,

I have always been interested in detailing my own car and this Summer I decided to take the job on. I'm still on the prep phase and making up a "list " so to speak before i do it.

My car: Jet Black 2012 128i. Daily driven here in the Northeast since getting it in 2013.

My situation: live in an apartment complex, have closed garage with access to power, no water access to do a thorough wash (biggest hindrance for me) aside from coinop wash at least 10mi away.

No experience in using a random orbital polisher. Have always done things by hand before. Have experience in claying, putting on wax etc but aside from that, nothing else aside from usual tidying up.

I have made a list of things to buy for this detail job and I stuck to the basics. If this is overkill please let me know:

1. Griot's G 10813LNGCRD 6in orbital OR PORTER-CABLE 7424XP 6-Inch Variable-Speed Polisher (is one better than the other, I'd like to spend the least money on this if possible)

2. Meguiar's Mirror Glaze M105 AND M205

3. Chem guys Hex logic light-medium AND medium-heavy pads

4. Whatever clay bar is available online (used meguiar's before)

5. Infinite use detail juice

6. Microfiber towels aplenty

My plan: just to take scratches and swirls off and overall just give it a freshening up pretty much. It's a driver after all but if possible i like for it to look it's best.

I always think of cars like a good pair of shoes, I don't want to wear/use them when they look filthy. Obviously a black car is much harder to maintain compared to leather shoes, and mine being a driver makes it so much harder. But I know it's doable so hopefully you can help a newbie willing to learn.

Thanks again!
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      08-14-2017, 10:40 AM   #41
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Hi -

Since you do not have access to a hose, you should become familiar with rinseless and waterless washes. They are an outstanding way to wash your vehicle without the need for a hose.

Check out Optimum No Rinse for a great Rinseless Wash product and/or CarPro EcH2O for a great Waterless Washing Product. Each can also be used as a clay lubricant and quick detail spray depending on how you dilute them.

Instead of M105, I would recommend Meguiar's M100. It is a bit more user friendly than M105 and will still produce outstanding results.

For a beginner set of pads, I have always recommended the following:
- Microfiber Cutting Pads
- Light Cutting Pads
- Polishing Pads
- Fine Finishing Pads (for spreading waxes and sealants)

I recommend purchasing 5" and 3" backing plates and 2 of each pad in the 5" size and 1 of each pad in the 3" size. I have found that these sizes allow for the best performance and access on the majority of vehicles. The 6.5" pads are just a bit too big for the smaller machines to handle so you will lose some performance when it comes to defect removal.

The Griot's Garage 3rd Gen DA Machine is a great choice! It is the machine I recommend to every DIYer.

We have several great clay bar options. I would recommend a simple fine grade clay bar, and you can use the previously mentioned Optimum No Rinse as a clay lubricant.


The steps for the entire process are outlined in detail in our Detailing Guide.

You might also find this article and video helpful for the paint correction work:
Two Step Paint Correction Overview

Let me know if you have any questions!

Zach McGovern
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Detailed Image Ask-A-Pro Blog Author
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      09-02-2017, 10:46 AM   #42
yakuza70
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I have an interior question - specifically the leather on the steering wheel. It's become very smooth and tacky after 6+ years. I realize it's the oils/dirt from my hands. I clean it with a wet microfiber towel and have tried using some leather restore paste which reduces the tackiness but only for a few days of driving. Short of rewrapping my steering wheel, what can I do to get the leather to be closer to when the car was newer?
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      09-04-2017, 10:22 AM   #43
Greg@DetailedImage
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hunginator View Post
...

My question, is Sonax Fallout remover supposed to remove ALL of these orange rust spots?
That is a difficult question to answer... it is like asking is "Polish X" supposed to remove ALL of my swirls?

The answer is "it depends".

Fallout can range from light surface contamination to more severe contamination. Certainly the heavier the contamination, the more time and effort will be required to completely remove it.

When I use fallout removers such as Sonax Fallout Cleaner or CarPro IronX, I will spray the chemical onto the paint and let it dwell for several minutes, then I will use a sponge or wash mitt to agitate the areas that are reacting to the chemicals to help remove the iron particles. I will then thoroughly rinse the vehicle and do another quick wash before proceeding with claying.

If your claybar is struggling to pickup some of the remaining particles, they may have become embedded into the clear coat rather than sitting on top of the clear coat. You might try spraying a small amount of fallout remover on these areas and agitating with a soft brush after a few minutes.


Quote:
Originally Posted by hunginator View Post
Reason for my concern is that because there are still rust spots, when I claybar, I end up applying lots of pressure with my claybar on these rust spots and that'll end up in the rust spots being removed. However, I'm not sure if using that much pressure on the claybar is good for the paint!

I look forward to your reply! Thanks!
Less pressure is always a good thing. With your car being white, you will likely have a difficult time seeing any marring as a result of aggressive claying, but it is always a good idea to be as gentle as possible.

Please let me know if you've got any other questions.

Zach McGovern
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      09-04-2017, 01:20 PM   #44
hunginator
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Zach,

Thanks for your reply!
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